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Anyone fitting 24' towered boats in 8' door?

Speedling

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
5,158
Reaction score
4,375
Points
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Location
Cedar Lake, IN
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SS
Boat Length
21
Doing the upgrades to my house, but planning and zoning doesn't like how I would have to put in my door to get 8'6" door. It would mean Either ripping the LVL down in height or skip the top plate somehow. They don't seem too keen.
8'6" door but 9'4" rafter height. Shortest LVL Available that I found was 7 1/4". Top plates make it 10 1/4" and I need it to be 10". Trying to argue that I can rip the LVL to height if I nail them back to back, OR use a steel 6" tall but then they harass me about attaching to the steel the double top plate.
Codes, MEH
In any case, if they just won't let me do it, then I am easily able to drop in an 8' door, but would LOVE to grab a 24' series boat with a factory foldable tower.
This means AR240 or 242LS Which folded show as 8'6".
So anyone fitting those boats under an 8' door?
Options?
Thought about an SX240 and aftermarket tower that folds down better, but honestly, I really want a factory tower - they are just solid and worry free (well, for the most part). I would rather mod something than install something totally different.
Drop hitch get that 6" needed to get in the garage?
I would like to get it in the garage pretty often.
Yes, I am working other options but I very much prefer the boat in the garage especially in winter for working and maintaining it.
 
I'm in the midst of changing out my door, as well. Going with a roll up door (think storage unit), rather than a standard panel door. This way the rails and opener will mount to the header and takes the rafters out of the equation. I should end up w a 9' opening.

Don't know if that helps or not. :)
 

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slightly curious about the as well the Architect has plans for my new house as well right now and not overly thinking about it I went with 8 ft grade door thinking that was enough. I can still change mine at final rendering to 9ft but I'm sure the extra foot is going to cost my some $$$$$
 
Two shorter LVLs soldiered back to back is a well proven and accepted method. I'd get the load/ft or whatever spec they are looking for and get the same spec rating data for various garage door header geometries (single LVL vs double LVL vs dimensional lumber vs steel, etc.) I am sure there is some geometry combo that would work.

When you find an approach that meets or surpasses their spec, you will have a strong argument to make. Nothing wins an argument better than facts.
 
Doing the upgrades to my house, but planning and zoning doesn't like how I would have to put in my door to get 8'6" door. It would mean Either ripping the LVL down in height or skip the top plate somehow. They don't seem too keen.
8'6" door but 9'4" rafter height. Shortest LVL Available that I found was 7 1/4". Top plates make it 10 1/4" and I need it to be 10". Trying to argue that I can rip the LVL to height if I nail them back to back, OR use a steel 6" tall but then they harass me about attaching to the steel the double top plate.
Codes, MEH
In any case, if they just won't let me do it, then I am easily able to drop in an 8' door, but would LOVE to grab a 24' series boat with a factory foldable tower.
This means AR240 or 242LS Which folded show as 8'6".
So anyone fitting those boats under an 8' door?
Options?
Thought about an SX240 and aftermarket tower that folds down better, but honestly, I really want a factory tower - they are just solid and worry free (well, for the most part). I would rather mod something than install something totally different.
Drop hitch get that 6" needed to get in the garage?
I would like to get it in the garage pretty often.
Yes, I am working other options but I very much prefer the boat in the garage especially in winter for working and maintaining it.
I'm sure you can put a AR240 in a 8' door if you take the tower stops off. As the tower than folds lower. I have used this method to fit my AR195 in my garage as I have a 7' door. Hankslash had documented this on a AR192 with a forward swept tower. If you go to higher 240 model with the other tower design I'm not sure this method would work.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-get-your-2016-ar192-or-ar195-in-a-garage-less-than-7.10369/
 
Actually, it seems like @mattschepker might have an 8' door with his AR 240, now that I think about it.
 
I'm sure you can put a AR240 in a 8' door if you take the tower stops off. As the tower than folds lower. I have used this method to fit my AR195 in my garage as I have a 7' door. Hankslash had documented this on a AR192 with a forward swept tower. If you go to higher 240 model with the other tower design I'm not sure this method would work.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-get-your-2016-ar192-or-ar195-in-a-garage-less-than-7.10369/
That's awesome guys!
Now I need to worry about 6" of depth, LOL! 23'9" puts me 2 inches into the house on the side I would prefer to put it in. If I put it on the other side, I lose my work bench, but could take out the wall that divides my utilities from the garage and gain the 6" from that, but then I need to do something to protect the house furnace! Gosh, and I was hoping this was all a solution to NOT need to build a garage! Seems like the work keeps growing!

I thought about building something like this:
69db5a93570dc3203a230e4649fd8bc6--pavillion-gazebo.jpg
and making it have a firepit behind it and stamped concrete for the floor, cultured stone to match some of the house stuff around the piers. Costs a lot less than a garage. Problem is gas line goes right through it, estimated 5-6k to move, and then electric comes in overhead and was estimated 2k to bury and run to far corner of the house. Brought me back to fitting in the garage!
But if a 8' door works, then I will see what I can do with permit guys to get the 8'6" door, and if it needs to be 8', then so be it.
Just gotta do the puzzle work of getting it lengthwise. I mean, I gues I COULD just go with a 21' boat...
 
I'm in the midst of changing out my door, as well. Going with a roll up door (think storage unit), rather than a standard panel door. This way the rails and opener will mount to the header and takes the rafters out of the equation. I should end up w a 9' opening.

Don't know if that helps or not. :)

That would work, but there is the problem of resale of the house if people think it's weird. If it was a detached garage, it would be done! Attached is a big trickier cuz I gotta worry about what the next guy might think.
 
That's awesome guys!
Now I need to worry about 6" of depth, LOL! 23'9" puts me 2 inches into the house on the side I would prefer to put it in. If I put it on the other side, I lose my work bench, but could take out the wall that divides my utilities from the garage and gain the 6" from that, but then I need to do something to protect the house furnace! Gosh, and I was hoping this was all a solution to NOT need to build a garage! Seems like the work keeps growing!

I thought about building something like this:
69db5a93570dc3203a230e4649fd8bc6--pavillion-gazebo.jpg
and making it have a firepit behind it and stamped concrete for the floor, cultured stone to match some of the house stuff around the piers. Costs a lot less than a garage. Problem is gas line goes right through it, estimated 5-6k to move, and then electric comes in overhead and was estimated 2k to bury and run to far corner of the house. Brought me back to fitting in the garage!
But if a 8' door works, then I will see what I can do with permit guys to get the 8'6" door, and if it needs to be 8', then so be it.
Just gotta do the puzzle work of getting it lengthwise. I mean, I gues I COULD just go with a 21' boat...

I'm guessing your looking at the 11-14 models correct? The 15+ models are every bit of 25 ft on the trailer with the tongue folded the damn fold away is moved forward of the boat on the trailer as the older ones the boat was longer then the trailer when folded. I'm not sure the length of your garage but I would say it needs to be at least 26ft to give a little room to play with.
 
That would work, but there is the problem of resale of the house if people think it's weird. If it was a detached garage, it would be done! Attached is a big trickier cuz I gotta worry about what the next guy might think.

Very true. I'm putting it on an outbuilding, not an attached garage. I'll get some before/after pics. The garage door guys tell me it'll look nice. Should be done by the end of the month.

I'm going from about a 7'8" tall by 9' wide opening to 9' tall x 12' wide.

Currently it's a real chore to get the lawn tractor and 4 wheelers out around the boat (which only fits by inches on each side). The extra width is going to be be awesome!
 
@Speedling Not being able to see what you going to build, I am assuming you plan on building on a slab, no footing/frostwall? In that case would it be possible to curb up your perimeter an inch or two to set your sill/walls on and no curbing where your door openings are. Might get clearances you need without ripping materials. I do not know if overall roof height is important. ie. blend roof line into existing structures. Or just add another 2 x 6? to the sill, stacking 3 instead of 2. Don't know if its a code issue in your area, or if it matters but just throwing alternative ideas your way.
 
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@Speedling Not being able to see what you going to build, I am assuming you plan on building on a slab, no footing/frostwall? In that case would it be possible to curb up your perimeter an inch or two to set your sill/walls on and no curbing where your door openings are. Might get clearances you need without ripping materials. I do not know if overall roof height is important. ie. blend roof line into existing structures. Or just add another 2 x 6? to the sill, stacking 3 instead of 2. Don't know if its a code issue in your area, or if it matters but just throwing alternative ideas your way.
Existing garage but moving the door from one side to the other and pouring double wide driveway. Current setup is horrid.
Picture is side new door is going. From current floor to rafters is 9'4"150445998977534233032.jpg
 
And i wonder if it states the size of double top plate needed to use in code. Like, use the lvl to cross span, then stack 1x lumber to rafters?
Last resort would be to make it a gabled end but that is a loooot of work for a door
If it comes down to it the boat sits outside with a good cover till i do something else
I mean, i don't own a 24' now anyways!
 
I'm guessing your looking at the 11-14 models correct? The 15+ models are every bit of 25 ft on the trailer with the tongue folded the damn fold away is moved forward of the boat on the trailer as the older ones the boat was longer then the trailer when folded. I'm not sure the length of your garage but I would say it needs to be at least 26ft to give a little room to play with.
Well bah. I didn't realize that. Not about to pour foundation etc just to fit a boat. Was trying to make it work cuz we really like the house location and plan on being here probably 15 years or so. Garage door still will be 8' but i don't have 25' for a 24' boat.
 
Oh, I see what you are doing now. Ya, or maybe a short stud between the lvl and the hip rafters reinforced on either side overlapping the truss and then fill between with a single 2 by for a nailer, i am assuming 24" spacing. Or take the lower 2 X of the top plate out, put the lvl up under the remaining one and fill in below what you need. As far as the other issue of being too short for a 24' boat, just make a dent in the other wall of the garage for it.;)
 
Oh, I see what you are doing now. Ya, or maybe a short stud between the lvl and the hip rafters reinforced on either side overlapping the truss and then fill between with a single 2 by for a nailer, i am assuming 24" spacing. Or take the lower 2 X of the plate out, put the lvl up under the remaining one and fill in below what you need. As far as the other issue of being too short for a 24' boat, just make a dent in the other wall of the garage for it.;)
A big dent if i need 25+ feet! I have about 23'6"
 
Ya, you would have to bump your wall out, at least, to your roof overhang probably, and that would need concrete i am sure.
 
If you had to, you could probably get a custom trailer made with folding tongue further aft. Cost a few $K, but a custom aluminum I-beam trailer would be sweet in its own right. Certainly cheaper than enlarging garage.

Now, you have spousal air cover for that custom trailer for your new boat!

You're welcome. :):cool::p
 
Would love to have his insight then!

Sorry it took so long to get back to you but we've been camping on the Sand Bar.
@BigAbe75 is right, I do have an 8ft garage door. I do get my boat 2017 ar240 in and out every weekend. When we picked up the boat from the dealer the cable and the bolt then you also have 2 locking nuts and a stop on the bolt for the tower. When we brought it home from the dealer we noticed there's about three quarters of an inch till the bottom of the bolt. we simply just unscrewed the 2 Locking nuts and stop till the bottom locking nut came flush with the bottom of the bolt. Then we lowered the tower. The anchor light was in line with the top of the windshield. Then I lower the tongue jack almost all the way down. Then I use a winch to get the boat in and out of the garage since there's a slight Hill up into our garage.

I hope this all makes sense. We can usually have the boat unhooked and back in the garage in about 10 minutes.
 
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