AT-205 resealer for minor oil leak

[Boat2024!]

Anyone have experience with oil additives for stopping minor leaks? AT-205 resealer seems to have good results for users.

 

[David Martin]

Two thumbs up for AT-205 it stopped a small leak in my 1992 full size blazer.

 

[Neutron]

Problem with anything that is suposed to seal leaks is that is could cause damage something else.
If its something you don't care particularly about or are getting rid of, its worth a try. If its something you are keeping and care about, fix it correctly
Just my opinion as a technician

 

[tdonoughue]

And also consider... anything that you can pour in and seal a leak will shortly 'unpour' itself and start leaking again. Otherwise they would not put seals in engines; they would bolt them together, throw some goo in them to seal them, and send them off. They don't do that because of what @Neutron said and because it would not last long.

 

[Boat2024!]

Thanks gentleman. Very slow leak. Very frustrating not to be able to fix easily. Do you know how much to pull the engine on average? Just got this boat and am praying every is ok. Tested before purchasing and it ran great. I used a borescope camera and it looks like the leak is a bolt on the oil pump that is impossible the get at with tools . Can't access as designed. Yamaha did not need to design it the like this. Have to live with it I guess. Yamaha likes you to go to the dealer of course! Just don't like the bottom of engine with drips of oil on it.

 

[Boat2024!]

Two thumbs up for AT-205 it stopped a small leak in my 1992 full size blazer.

There are 4 o rings on 2 short sleeve/pipes and a large gasket as well. You could remove bolts in the leak area one at a time for a thread inspection.....look for galled/stripped threads......metal particle in threads. Remove/inspect....photograph clean reinstall retorque. Repete on next bolt and you can see any changes in bolts/debris. Plus the retorque tell you if any stripping is a problem. Vibration a bear on bolts in aluminum.

Hello David, You suggested to a member to check the bolts on the oil pump. Maybe I am doing something wrong but the access is brutal. Do I need to remove the super charger or etc. to get to them?

 

[David Martin]

Ouch..........14SX190 has a good diagram in original thread and even my service manual for my 2013 does not have the Supercharger diagram. The leak in the oil pump area is bolt or seal related. AT-205 swells the seals like rear main rubber type seal on motors that seal around the crank ,valve seals ect.........Your seal/leak is not a leak caused by rotating wear......the seals in the pump area are seals on flat services or non moving parts ............There ability to seal oil are controlled by clamping pressure and bolt toque....not an application AT-205 would be good at.

Hate to say it but removing the charger and checking all the bolts and seal replacement is the best was to stop the leak you have. Bolt could have come loose or bolt not torqued proper when built or damage to one of the seals during assembly come to mind.

Good luck

 

[Boat2024!]

Thanks Dave for the response. I got the service manual -great manual! Someday in the future I will tackle that job. Should be very interesting. Most important for now is to check compression to see how healthy the engine is. Heavy learning curve for 1st time boat owner and am excited to get it in the water. As they use to say "Keep on trucking". Take care.

 

[Boat2024!]

Thanks Dave for the response. I got the service manual -great manual! Someday in the future I will tackle that job. Should be very interesting. Most important for now is to check compression to see how healthy the engine is. Heavy learning curve for 1st time boat owner and am excited to get it in the water. As they use to say "Keep on trucking". Take care.

Also I promise no more resealer talk. LOL

 

[David Martin]

No problem...............remove plugs and keep them in order. Plugs will tell you how the engine is doing............rich or lean ect........any problem plugs and it will tell you your next step like fuel injector or ignition/coil spark problems.

Compression test warm up engine remove all plugs and disconnect the fuel injector electrical connection. Make sure battery is full and you have charger use it.......as batt wears down changing how fast the motor spins effects the compression test. Let the compression hit the gauge fast and watch it go up until it stops (usually 4 compression hits) any problem cylinders and match it to the plug and start the investigation.

If both engines are looking the same I would encourage you to send in one engine in for and engine oil analysis .......like Blackstone labs they will tell you every metal wear part per million, and how much fuel/water is present in oil and TBN of the oil. I wont get another oil read(no sense in wasting money) unless my plugs change and show me a problem.

Keep us in formed and Good luck.