Bad solenoid, ground or killswitch?

[Konnie]

Port side engine started just fine.
To start the starboard engine had to turn the key to the third position, the cranking position and starter motor would only turn after the key was held in the starting / cranking position for about 10 seconds. Once it cranked the starboard engine started right up. Lived with that for about 3 months. Suspected that the starter relay / solenoid was bad.
Started to replace the solenoid.
Before I re-assembled the solenoid in its black box I connected all the cables to it and tried to start. The engine would not turn at all during the few first attempts. Did hear the click from the solenoid few times. Tested and got 12.7 V to the solenoid from the cables that run from the key ignition to solenoid. Did get 12.7 V between engine block and the cable that runs between the battery and solenoid.
Got 0 V between cable that runs from solinoid to start motor and engine block when turning key to cranking position.
Scratched my head, repeated last test again and again... and again..and the engine cranked right up. Scratched my head again.
Replaced the new solenoid with the old solinoid and the engines cranked right up.
The port side always cranked right up.
Two questions:
1. Any ideas why the delay in cranking, the first issue pre-solenoid replacement?
2. Thoughts on why the engine would not turn after solenoid replaced at first but then after a few attempts?

Any input is appreciated!!

Little concern as I'm not sure that I truly fixed the issue or possible fixed one issue and created another issue.

 

[itsdgm]

Could be a bad key switch. To diagnose (or rule out the key switch) simply swap plugs behind the dash. Then see if the problem follows the switch to the other engine. It might take waiting a while for the symptoms to show up again though.

 

[itsdgm]

It could also be a battery connection. Make sure all of those are clean and tight.

 

[Konnie]

Thanks for your input.
Did switch the keys around during the diagnosis to no help.
Will look for loose connections next.
Cheers!

 

[bronze_10]

Could it be the starter?

 

[Jgorm]

Sounds like the old solenoid had corrosion and had trouble making the contract when latched. If the problem is gone with the new solenoid, consider it solved.

 

[Konnie]

Jgorm, you might be right. Thanks for input.
Just in case the issue comes back has anyone replaced a starter on a boat like this (Yamaha AR230 2006) or seen a forum describing it?

Best!

 

[Scottintexas]

From our FAQ tab at the top of the page, it's a 2009 but it's an mR-1 engine, lots of great stuff in there,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/dead-starter.3183/

keep us posted,

 

[Jgorm]

It's gonna be a pain. I'd use jumper cables to rule everything out before swapping. I was thinking about doing a proactive swap while I have everything apart. It's way in there under the exhaust on the starboard side. You could remove the exhaust and manifolds in an hour or 2 with little experience.

 

[Konnie]

From our FAQ tab at the top of the page, it's a 2009 but it's an mR-1 engine, lots of great stuff in there,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/dead-starter.3183/

keep us posted,

Wow! Lots of info. in that thread, thanks!!

 

[itsdgm]

Jgorm, you might be right. Thanks for input.
Just in case the issue comes back has anyone replaced a starter on a boat like this (Yamaha AR230 2006) or seen a forum describing it?

Best!

I have swapped starters from one engine to the other. But both engines were out of the boat. Obviously it would be much harder to do it with the engines in the boat. Unfortunately, the starboard engine is going to be harder than the port engine to work on. I agree with @Jgorm about testing it with jumpers to try and rule it out first. If memory serves me correctly, there's only one wire to remove and two bolts that hold it to the block. Then it should slide out towards the rear of the boat.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

It may be the cable from the solenoid to the starter, either the connections are dirty or the cable itself is bad. To get an idea of the cable condition " both positive and negative cables" try to flex it if it is flexible feeling like it does not resist bending it is probably fine if it is rigid or crackles when moving the cables is bad. If the cable checks out ok perhaps the connections are just dirty. To rule out the starter just connect a hot lead to the starter terminal and jump it to the positive side of the battery if it resists starting get a ground cable to the negative side of the battery and try again since you are hooking directly to the battery if the starter is good it will kick right in, Often just the ground cable end at the engine is dirty and resists the flow of electricity, I usually add a second ground wire directly to the engine near the top away from the water under the engine and go directly to the battery negative terminal to eliminate having any ground issues out on the water.

 

[Konnie]

Could be a bad key switch. To diagnose (or rule out the key switch) simply swap plugs behind the dash. Then see if the problem follows the switch to the other engine. It might take waiting a while for the symptoms to show up again though.

This reply is a few month late but wanted to share.
The same engine with the starting issue started to not wanting to turn off when key turned to off position and the old symptom of only staring when key held in the start position for for a few seconds started to reappeared.
Replaced the key egnition and both issues went away....Thanks!

 

[Neutron]

I had a faulty key switch in my boat that actually had the problem since a month old. It would just click the solenoid at times. Got worse so i swapped key switches it moved with the switch.
Replaced the switch set. No problems since