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Boat still taking on water

maviles392

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
88
Reaction score
55
Points
67
Location
Panama City Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
Limited
Boat Length
21
Background info. My boats a 2017, Yamaha 212 Limited. First jet boat but have owned boats for 41 years. Bought the boat 2 months ago and have noticed every time I am out the bilge pump activates quite often. The boat is trailer kept and bilge is always dry when I put it in and when I retrieve it I alway drain about 5 gallons or more at the ramp when I pull the plug. Water coming in from somewhere.
 
First it’s not the anchor locker drain. I replaced that with a new stainless steel one. The old plastic one looked ugly but once I pulled it out I could see the core is solid, no air space between the outer hull and the inner tub.
 

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Next it’s not the seam around the swim platform. I pulled the rub rail and the top hull plate is sealed perfectly to the hull. No air gaps and joined perfect.
 
I pulled the tray in the clean out plug area because it wasn’t sealed very well. Replaced some rusted clamps in this area while I was there. Than replaced the hatch sealing it with 5200 and added about 12 more stainless steel bolts around the perimeter. It’s sealed water tight. I know water is probably coming in through the removable hatch but could that much water be coming in there. I was thinking of adding that 1” riser. It has about a 3/4” riser built into the hatch from the factory but another inch wouldn’t hurt.
 
Yesterday I ran for 51 miles and during that time the bilge pump kicked in several times and when I retrieved the boat I again drained over 10 gallons out the bilge plug and the bilge pump kicked on and drained another 10 gallons. When I stopped earlier that day at the jetties I opened the large floor hatch up front and there was 10 gallons or more of water in there. A side note on the water coming out of the bilge pump, it’s warmer than the bay water. It’s hard to be sure because or water temp is around 91* right now but it feels a few degrees warmer like is engine cooling water leaking from somewhere.
 
Common issue, unfortunately. A couple other things to check:

First, put the boat on the trailer, crank up the jack, and fill the bilge with water. Look and see where it is coming out...

Check particularly the fitting for the bilge plug. Reports of that not being properly sealed with silicone and leaking around the edge. Then also check the scupper.

On the 5200, be careful with that on the hatch. If it is not cured, you may want to scrape that off and replace with 4200. You may need to get down there periodically. 5200 is permanent and won't let you in there very easily. 4200 is removable.

Final check you can do on the water: get some baby powder. Open that hatch and dust everything. On the water, look for where the water has washed away the powder for clue as to where the leak is...
 
Some random pics.
 

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Certainly possible that it is a cooling leak. But a) those are usually much faster filling, believe it or not and b) usually you can clearly tell it is hot. Feel the water in the bilge (rather than what is coming out the pump) to get a better idea. But yes, idle on the water, pull that hatch in the back and look in the engine compartment for leaks. Don't forget to check around the engine--hopefully not the issue (esp on so new a boat), but it can be a cracked block, too...
 
tdonoughue, thanks for the recommendations.

A couple of weeks ago I did fill the bilge up with water, a ton of water. Right to the bottom of the oil pans on the engines. Took 10 minutes to drain all the water. Left it in for 30 minutes and not a single drop from anywhere. Drain plug, shift gate cables, no where.

As for the 5200, it’s cured. Not worried about getting it off, hopefully I won’t have to take it back out.
 
And yes I forgot to mention the scupper. I can see it very clearly on the model and it’s solid. No cracks or leaks while it’s sitting in the water.
 
I don’t want to jinx you because you have a pretty new boat…But mine was doing the same thing, bilge running a lot while on the water, drain plug drained a lot (if the bilge didn’t pump it out prior to getting off the water). I had a bad port intermediate bearing, easy to check by sticking your head in the engine compartment and looking at both driveshafts behind the engines to see if they are dripping/leaking while on the water. When I put the throttle in the forward detent it would gush water through the bearing and driveshaft into the engine compartment. Can’t imagine how much water came in when I would put 6-9kRPMS to it, Hoping to get the boat on the water today to see if replacing the intermediate assembly fixed my leak.
 
I’ve checked both engines thoroughly while they are running and the are bone dry. No water anywhere around the engines or the hoses coming in or going out. The one place I haven’t checked while the engines are running is under the hatch in the clean out tray because I will need someone in the boat cranking engines while I hold down kill switches and look in this area. Just haven’t done it while we have been out having fun but after yesterday and all the water it’s next on my list of things to do.
 
Acard7, I will check that area next time I’m out. That is one of the items I’ve read about on here but didn’t know how to see if they are the issue. I don’t know if I can see that area on my year and model.
 
Acard7, I will check that area next time I’m out. That is one of the items I’ve read about on here but didn’t know how to see if they are the issue. I don’t know if I can see that area on my year and model.

Just keep the engine hatch open and let the boat idle in forward detent, you won’t miss the water coming in or spraying for sure.
 
Acard7, I can see why you said you don’t want to jinx me about the intermediate bearing. I just looked at my service manual, you have to pull the engine to replace the seals ?. Oh joy.
 
maviles392 I have done all this also and still have a leak. Not as much water as you. The bilge might come on 5-6 times for a couple seconds during an 8 hour day on the water and I drain maybe 2-3 gallons of water at the end of the day, but its coming in somewhere and it is not obvious. I have stuck my head down in the clean out tray with the engines running, nothing. Tightened all clamps, no change. Replaced Anchor Locker drain, no change. Sealed clean out tray hatch, no difference. Checked intermediate bearings for leaks, both sitting and while engines running, nothing. I have not tried the powder trick so I need to do that. I will watch this thread and see what you come up with.
 
Acard7, I can see why you said you don’t want to jinx me about the intermediate bearing. I just looked at my service manual, you have to pull the engine to replace the seals ?. Oh joy.

i just replaced one in my AR230 and all I had to do was slide the engine forward 1-2 inches. If you have enough room in the engine compartment to do so you could do it the same way, it’s way easier than you think! I have a thread on here of how I replaced it, but not sure that’s how all replacements will be! Felt like Yamaha designed the engine compartments pretty similar in all their boats but who knows…
 
I pulled the tray in the clean out plug area because it wasn’t sealed very well. Replaced some rusted clamps in this area while I was there. Than replaced the hatch sealing it with 5200 and added about 12 more stainless steel bolts around the perimeter. It’s sealed water tight. I know water is probably coming in through the removable hatch but could that much water be coming in there. I was thinking of adding that 1” riser. It has about a 3/4” riser built into the hatch from the factory but another inch wouldn’t hurt.
I would add the riser or silicone the access plate. It's amazing how much water washes into the clean out tray on deceleration, and with how awful those access seals are!
 
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