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Boat still taking on water

This is a bad leak. You need to do two things; 1. seal from the inside when the bilge area is dry. Seal all around where the tube meets the fiberglass. 2. Try to sneak down below the boat, check the inlet grill, and check the opening there. Check if the area is not properly sealed. You may need to seal it from the outside.
 
Get some epoxy and seal it up . Great video showing what's going on. Is your boat under warranty ? What year and model is it ?
Are you the original owner?

No warranty. It’s a 2017 212 Limited. 2nd owner. Because the base of the tube ( large hose ) needs to be mounted as low as possible I would only be able to put a thin layer of epoxy there. I don’t think a thin layer would hold for long. I need to find where the water is being forced up through there. Everything underneath looks sealed but obviously it’s not.
 
This is a bad leak. You need to do two things; 1. seal from the inside when the bilge area is dry. Seal all around where the tube meets the fiberglass. 2. Try to sneak down below the boat, check the inlet grill, and check the opening there. Check if the area is not properly sealed. You may need to seal it from the outside.

Underneath is where I need to seal it. Everything looks sealed right now but obviously water is being forced in from somewhere down there.
Anyone ever pull all that plating off. There are about 13 large Allen head bolts holding everything in place. 3 on the small inlet grate, 6 on the next plate and 4 holding the plate at the very rear.
 
It’s 3:40am and can’t sleep so I just went out to the workshop and crawled underneath the boat. There are a few spots where the rubber sealant around the plates looks missing. Maybe water is forcing its way into these small spots and traveling a foot or so under these plates and coming up. I want to pull the plates off on one side and get a better look at how it’s all put together so I can better seal it back up. Anyone ever pull these plates.
 

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It’s 3:40am and can’t sleep so I just went out to the workshop and crawled underneath the boat. There are a few spots where the rubber sealant around the plates looks missing. Maybe water is forcing its way into these small spots and traveling a foot or so under these plates and coming up. I want to pull the plates off on one side and get a better look at how it’s all put together so I can better seal it back up. Anyone ever pull these plates.

Close the drains and fill some water into the bilge area with a garden hose (just a little) to see where the water is coming from underneath. Raise the trailer jack high enough to push the water to the back.
 
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On the older boats it was very common for owners to pull the plate off the bottom. The silcone from the factory would fall out or it was not installed good from the factory this would allow air to be sucked in causing cavitation the repair manual showed how to apply the sealant. The new boats have an additional plate and I haven’t seen any owners pull it down or have issues I doubt that area is the problem. So I just went outside and reached my hand in the clean out shaft that aluminum piece flares out to follow the shape of the low pressure side of the pump. This is the loading area for the water, what you will need to do is pull both pumps and impellers out. This will give you access to that entire area search videos of how to remove the jet nozzle captainLeon has a great vid. Get some JB weld and coat the entire area as it starts to dry and skin over you can use a large socket and gently roll it to smooth it out, when completely dry sand it if needed. This was common for owners that surf it helped improve the efficiency of the pump. Yamaha was sending these boats out with very rough impeller shafts that had ridges from one piece to the next that disrupts the water flow . Your boat has gaps that are allowing the water to get into the hull. Before applying the epoxy rough it up with sand paper clean it with acetone. Keep us posted and apply heat to the the jet nozzle bolts to break the loctite.
 
Close the drains and fill some water into the bilge area with a garden hose (just a little) to see where the water is coming from underneath. Raise the trailer jack high enough to push the water to the back.

Did this last year at the start of this adventure. Put enough water in the boat the water was touching the bottom of the oil pans. Not a single drop came out anywhere. The water only comes in at speeds over 30mph so it takes extremely high pressure to push it in.
 
Wow. That is a bit of water coming in.

Sure looks like the part should be replacable/resealable? My SX195 service manual shows the difference in plug types and the corresponding part. You can see the bolt holes, which appear to match with the nuts under silicone near your leak. Haven't looked from the bottom and the service manual doesn't have any additional detail in that area. Maybe under something else or buried in glass?
 

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Can you repost the youtube video (link isn't working for me)? I'd like to see the leak as I am dealing with water getting past my plug and want to see if this gives me any insight. Thanks!
 
Can you repost the youtube video (link isn't working for me)? I'd like to see the leak as I am dealing with water getting past my plug and want to see if this gives me any insight. Thanks!

The first one I posted didn’t work. Go a few posts down to second video
 
Pulled the impeller. There is a rubber seal around the part that holds the clean out plugs. It’s a half circle on the back side of transom plate and along the bottom between the bottom intake plate/ramp. Parts of the seal are gone and some of what’s left is easy to pull out. More the half is still in place. I’m wondering should I use 5200, marine silicone or marine epoxy. Pull out everything that’s loose and leave the rest. The only way I’m getting all the old seal out is removing the transom plate and that bottom plate. Making more work and possibly causing more issues which already happened. Tried taking the impeller ring off since it was just 4 bolts. 2 broke loose easy the third one upper right I started to take it off and the head of the bolt sheared off. Barely put 20lbs of torque on it. Defective bolt. Will do a short video on that because I may need to fix that also. Anyway big question again. 5200, silicone or epoxy? Will put a link to a video
 
The more I look at it I’m thinking that bottom part is the boat hull and the bottom plate and no way water could get to the problem area. The half round section at the upper rear, yes. There is also a spot in the front upper part where the epoxy has a hairline crack or separation where I think water under pressure could squeeze in.
 
The first one I posted didn’t work. Go a few posts down to second video
Thanks got it to work on my phone. Wouldn’t work on desktop. All good. Thanks and wow that’s a crazy leak!
 
Great videos, I would probably start off with a marine grade silicone only because 5200 can be a pain to work with a couple years down the road. I wouldn’t use epoxy because they tend to be brittle and that area sees a lot of vibration and movement. Then again I wouldn't expect to have to remove any of those parts for basic maintenance and never unless there was another major issue. I think I just talked my self into using 5200.
 
@maviles392 I’d start with @Cambo ’s suggestion, correcting the surface of the seam is less intrusive and would save a lot of effort if it works. I would seal epoxy the inside also, but only after I’m sure the outside has been sealed. I don’t know the right materials to use, I would think 5200 is too much, l prefer a removable option. @swatski what have you used to smooth out your tunnel?

On the older boats it was very common for owners to pull the plate off the bottom. The silcone from the factory would fall out or it was not installed good from the factory this would allow air to be sucked in causing cavitation the repair manual showed how to apply the sealant. The new boats have an additional plate and I haven’t seen any owners pull it down or have issues I doubt that area is the problem. So I just went outside and reached my hand in the clean out shaft that aluminum piece flares out to follow the shape of the low pressure side of the pump. This is the loading area for the water, what you will need to do is pull both pumps and impellers out. This will give you access to that entire area search videos of how to remove the jet nozzle captainLeon has a great vid. Get some JB weld and coat the entire area as it starts to dry and skin over you can use a large socket and gently roll it to smooth it out, when completely dry sand it if needed. This was common for owners that surf it helped improve the efficiency of the pump. Yamaha was sending these boats out with very rough impeller shafts that had ridges from one piece to the next that disrupts the water flow . Your boat has gaps that are allowing the water to get into the hull. Before applying the epoxy rough it up with sand paper clean it with acetone. Keep us posted and apply heat to the the jet nozzle bolts to break the loctite.
 
I would still do 5200. You can't even buy the part to replace it, so you don't need to worry about it being permanent. All along where you were running your screwdriver and pulling out that seal. That is exactly the area I was referencing earlier--if it is a solid piece of metal from the jet intake path up to the plug, that seam you are exploring must be the issue and should be sealed. I agree epoxy would be too brittle. If you want to try something first that you will need to eventually go back and redo, do 4200. But I would do 5200.
 

First, great videos and great determination to fix the problem ??

Looking at your previous video showing the water coming into the boat and this vide will give you an idea which side is the problem. I would seal it all just to be safe. I recommend silicone sealant.
 
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