Brakes - is it worth it to switch from hydraulic to electric brakes?

[DJ Bellin]

Any idea what make and model the actuator unit is? I looked on the shorelandr website and it pulled up the make/mode via the VIN but I don’t see the part listed in the list. I also never paid attention before now but my trailer is made by Midwest. I am assuming since it is a galvanized model? Anyone else have one by chance?

 

[2kwik4u]

@DJ Bellin

Quick google shows midwest industries to be the same as Shoreland'r. - Midwest Industries, Inc. I would call them and ask about the actuator.

 

[Bizywk]

I have been reading the comments and am learning a lot from you guys. Thank you for the meaningful dialog.

I stopped by my local trailer shop today to pick up the wheels and tires to take to sams club to replace the current tires with Goodyear Endurance tires x4. (Sams has 80 dollars off four of them right now so the mount balance and warranty is basically free right now).

He was showing me a problem he is having with the hydraulic actuator. He has the brake line taken apart and he can barely move the actuator. And even when he does there isn’t any brake fluid (minus a couple drops) that come out. Now I haven’t had or seen any leaks, and since I drive my truck with the engine brake on when trailering, I’m not sure if the trailer brakes have been engaging or not. I have never had a problem stopping the boat in the five years I have had the tow vehicle and boat together so it has never been an issue.

He is also finding it nearly impossible to remove the actuator to replace it. He said he isnt sure he can get it off. Is there a solonoid or something that has to be hooked up to receive an electrical input in order to engage the actuator? Is there a reason that I wouldn’t have any brake fluid come out of the line if the trailer is disengaged and we are manually trying to move the hydraulic actuator to mimic a load to engage braking? It appears to me, my mechanic is missing something. I would hate to have to replace all the brake lines, hydraulic actuator etc for no reason, however this isn’t my area of expertise.

If I have to run new lines, actuator etc would it be smarter to install a EOH setup from the beginning or do I need these part before I get to that point rectified?

This is the first time I have been to this shop and he has worked in trailers for decades but boat trailer are not his bread and butter. He seems honest and that means a lot to me. I am willing to work with him because he is honest even if he isn’t the cheapest around.

I am currently already spending a bit of money squaring away the trailer as the leaf springs needed to be replaced, the writing on the left side and lights needed to be run, the brakes rotors and calipers needed replaced, and now we might need brake lines and a new hydraulic actuator added to the mix.

Should I just look at buying a new trailer instead lol.

Any recommendations.

That seems really odd on a trailer as young as yours. My guess is that you have a micro leak in a piston/caliper/brake line connection, and the lack of fluid allowed moisture into your system causing the actuator to corrode and nearly sieze up over time. I'd refill and check all the possible leak locations and lines - knowing that dunking your trailer and time/weather will have likely washed away prior evidence.

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One other thing worth mentioning on this thread when we're talking about our testimonials which I consider all of them as completely true, is that no one is making the case that these trailers present an outright safety issue. The sheer ownership numbers prove that they work well under normal conditions which is when we usually head to our waterways or else we'd see a high rate of loss, death, accidents and lawsuits. We're talking specifically about the limits of surge systems when you're not in optimal conditions as well as each of our own personal assessments on the cost to risk calculation which will always be widespread among a group of people. In the end, we're talking about increasing our capability to avoid potential disasters under extenuating emergency circumstances like other driver's instant stops, poor unexpected weather, extreme elevation changes, etc.

I guess a good rule of thumb for this personal cost/benefit evaluation vs family financial priorities is "What price would you pay to even minimally reduce your risk of worst case outcomes feasibly including permanent injury or worse." Its very natural that some of us are more risk adverse than others.

 

[tdonoughue]

@DJ Bellin , I would suspect that either a) you have something that dropped into the master cylinder or b) (more likely) that the aforementioned corrosion happened and some rust broke off on the inside of the master cylinder. In either case, it made its way to the bottom of the master cylinder and likely has jammed up the hydraulic line heading out and/or the piston. Very believable to me (had a trailer with that once).

That said, while I haven't removed the cylinder from the Shorelandr (yet), I am scratching my head a little as to why he would not be able to remove it. If I am remembering correctly it is removed to the front of the trailer and/or drops down. Either of those should still be possible if the piston is stuck (though you may have to remove the hitch).

 

[Elliott]

can you please elaborate a bit more on this? I understand that trailer and tow vehicle being balance is best case scenario but having to choose being the truck being pushed by the trailer or the trailer "stoping" the truck, I think I would the second one is a better option. That is not to say that the truck breaking system should be neglected or anything of that sort. But given all else being equal on the truck, a trailer that has more stoping power should be preferred over one with less stoping power.
As a side-note, I have towed a brakeless trailer before and boy it is a Erie feeling when you are being pushed by the trailer and the truck can barely manage. Getting a "thrust forward " is a very comforting feeling, but I would love to hear if this actually a delusion that reality.

As far as the shore lander trailer go, this has discussion has nothing to do with OEM trailer. Mine was a 2012 and it towed fine. It took my boat from Dallas to lake Powell and south Florid with zero issues what so ever. I do not recall an y close call or particular feeling about the brakes. As matter of fact I have not noticed any difference between that trailer and my aluminum with torsion axles. When it comes to braking, it simply it is not a fair fight. Going from single surge disk brakes to dual axle disk brakes with EOH, it is just a different league. Is it worth another dumping $2k on a $3k trailer? that I am not sure. But for our family we would rather put $2K to upgrade the brakes than put $2K to upgrade the sound system on the boat.
I fully, understand that my priorities in the world tent to be rather different than rest of the world

The poster can speak for himself, but the concern would be that:
1) the trailer tires have small contact patches compared to the tow vehicle tires
2) the tow vehicle brakes are much more sophisticated/safer with anti-lock features and the tow vehicle's stability control
3) therefore, in a sudden or emergency braking condition, having significantly stronger (more effective) trailer brakes would likely lead to the trailer tires locking up and skidding.
4) the skidding would create a dangerous condition that might lead to loss of control over the trailer.

As you noted, a balanced system (tow vehicle and trailer) is best.

 

[DJ Bellin]

@DJ Bellin

Quick google shows midwest industries to be the same as Shoreland'r. - Midwest Industries, Inc. I would call them and ask about the actuator.

Sorry, that was an impulse post on my part without applying any due diligence at the shop. You are absolutely correct. I just assumed that shorland’r would have been on the sticker but they are the same.

For what it is worth, it is an A60 hydraulic actuator on the trailer and if you don’t apply grease to the pull out pins that enable you to remove it, it will rust and swell which makes it really hard to remove.

 

[Betik]

@elliot I see what you mean, but this is not even close to the trailer brakes locking with the boat being on top.

 

[Betik]

@DJ Bellin is this what you need? I think I have one in my attic.

 

[DJ Bellin]

@DJ Bellin is this what you need? I think I have one in my attic.

@Betik It is similar but I don’t think that one would fit with the trailer toungue that breaks away for storage. I will have to check this weekend.

So the repair bill estimate for the hydraulic actuator, new brakes and caliper replacements and leaf springs is a little over 2k with parts and labor. Yikes!!!

The current trailer guy still can’t get the pins out. I am just going to pay him for his time thus far (as he replace the lights on the left side with new wiring and lights and spent a bit of time trying (unsuccessfully) to take out the pins on the actuator and go to a boat trailer shop in another town that has experience in rusted boat trailers. I really didn’t think this would have been such a problem in a 2015 trailer but it is what it is.

Question: How much are new trailers going for? I thought mine was only 3kish and I’m debating as to fix/upgrade this or buy a new trailer rig all together but I may be out of touch with current trailer prices.

Another option is to resource the parts and do the work myself. I have some time coming up and I did just drop 500 bucks on new Enduro Tires today. Oh well, first world problems I guess.

Items that need to be addressed just to be able to re tag the vehicle in MD from Florida are:

- New leaf springs on both sides
- new brakes, drums and calipers both sides
- New brake lines (possibly not confirmed)
- new hydraulic actuator (A60)

Price 2k to 2.2k with labor currently. I know MD is a more expensive area than Florida but that seems high to me but perhaps I am just not tracking on maintenance cost appropriately for trailers anymore.

 

[Betik]

@DJ Bellin trailers are bit scarce right now because the whole boating boom nonsense. For $5k you should be able to get an aluminum trailer with torsion axles etc. If I was doing that today, I would most likely get the aluminum trailer and have them add the double diskbrakes and HUE unit.
Now because I am cheap bastard I will probably do the work myself. And in that note because it the link to my dangerous/awesome brake system. I did the work myself. It was not much of big deal. One weekend and you are done.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4843800.html

 

[swatski]

I have a similar sentiment, I have my own complaints about the Shorelander trailer, but braking is not one of them. Provided you’re using an appropriate tow vehicle, they are entirely sufficient, even in emergency braking situations. The description about feeling like the trailer brakes are so strong that they’re stopping the truck, does not sound safe to me.

Well, yes, but... being he's Greek, @Betik is prone to hyperbole!

So, when he said "they are stopping the truck" he probably just meant "I felt something, like the brakes may be working"?

I'm not being serious.


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[captainhook]

@Betik It is similar but I don’t think that one would fit with the trailer toungue that breaks away for storage. I will have to check this weekend.

So the repair bill estimate for the hydraulic actuator, new brakes and caliper replacements and leaf springs is a little over 2k with parts and labor. Yikes!!!

The current trailer guy still can’t get the pins out. I am just going to pay him for his time thus far (as he replace the lights on the left side with new wiring and lights and spent a bit of time trying (unsuccessfully) to take out the pins on the actuator and go to a boat trailer shop in another town that has experience in rusted boat trailers. I really didn’t think this would have been such a problem in a 2015 trailer but it is what it is.

Question: How much are new trailers going for? I thought mine was only 3kish and I’m debating as to fix/upgrade this or buy a new trailer rig all together but I may be out of touch with current trailer prices.

Another option is to resource the parts and do the work myself. I have some time coming up and I did just drop 500 bucks on new Enduro Tires today. Oh well, first world problems I guess.

Items that need to be addressed just to be able to re tag the vehicle in MD from Florida are:

- New leaf springs on both sides
- new brakes, drums and calipers both sides
- New brake lines (possibly not confirmed)
- new hydraulic actuator (A60)

Price 2k to 2.2k with labor currently. I know MD is a more expensive area than Florida but that seems high to me but perhaps I am just not tracking on maintenance cost appropriately for trailers anymore.

I personally would probably start looking at aluminum trailers as a replacement, given you tow such long distances. The piece of mind towing that far with a good trailer would be worth it to me. Used trailers are usually pretty expensive here in MD and I’ve seen absolute garbage listed for $1800. Even the brackish water around here will wreak havoc on trailer parts, particularly brakes. I’ve had lifelong boaters here tell me that the first thing they’ve done to their trailers is rip the brakes off because they’re “nothing but trouble.” Now those people aren’t towing their boats to Florida and probably wet slip, but it shows you what happens to trailer brakes in this area.

Finding a trailer in this environment will be difficult, however. But that also means your current trailer could be easily sold to recoup some cost. Given many around here don’t care about brakes, the lack of inventory, and the fact that many register trailers in Maine to bypass the Maryland trailer inspection nonsense, this might be the best route.