Britboater
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,121
- Reaction score
- 1,021
- Points
- 257
- Location
- Punta Gorda FL, Abersoch UK
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2016
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 24
When my boat was around two years old I started to notice the shift levers getting stiff, upon investigation it was the starboard bucket cable. My boat is used in the Gulf but never moored overnight, always on a lift and intensely washed after every use, so a little bemused why, after only 70 hours this was happening.
Moving forward, yesterday I finally got round to changing the offending cable, a quick search on this site answered a few questions and the photos @Julian posted helped with identifying all the parts involved.
Genuine cable purchased so I didn’t run into any unforeseen circumstances as I was changing this cable on my lift
.
First noteworthy item, the retaining plastic nut above the pump was loose, not finger loose but very free. When undone and I pulled it away, I realised then, the rubber plug needs to be compressed to seal, then on further inspection I could see the silicone on the inside had not stuck to the hull and a pool of water underneath. I don’t get a lot of water in the hull after an outing but I do and it always annoys me as to why, so this obviously contributed to some of it.
Checking the port cable nut and that was not tight either, so I corrected that immediately.
Looking at the old cable, which I’ve always lubricated regularly, I noticed after sliding the rubber boot off, the articulating part was really corroded.
My thoughts are this is maybe where water can enter further up the outer cable and thus corrode the inner, causing failure. On the new cable and my original port cable I have now packed grease into this knuckle and replaced the rubber boot.
I fed the cable from the rear, attaching it to the old one with Duck tape, with assistance it was introduced into the engine bay with little problems. The cable then goes into the gas tank area, under the helm floor and into the void under the throttle. I tried to remove the four bolts that hold down the gas tank lid, no way, three of the four totally seized. Just hope I never ever need to get in there. Luckily, with some blasphemy I got the new cable through.
Assembly of the throttle unit has been covered before and fairly straight forward, my shift is now silky smooth again and another job well done.
It does however bring me to wonder how the E series boats will get on with this problem. I’d imagine the buckets are actuated via a servo, when a cable stifferns it’s a total failure, at least with a manual you can feel the resistance and know what’s happening, just a thought.
Moving forward, yesterday I finally got round to changing the offending cable, a quick search on this site answered a few questions and the photos @Julian posted helped with identifying all the parts involved.
Genuine cable purchased so I didn’t run into any unforeseen circumstances as I was changing this cable on my lift
.First noteworthy item, the retaining plastic nut above the pump was loose, not finger loose but very free. When undone and I pulled it away, I realised then, the rubber plug needs to be compressed to seal, then on further inspection I could see the silicone on the inside had not stuck to the hull and a pool of water underneath. I don’t get a lot of water in the hull after an outing but I do and it always annoys me as to why, so this obviously contributed to some of it.
Checking the port cable nut and that was not tight either, so I corrected that immediately.
Looking at the old cable, which I’ve always lubricated regularly, I noticed after sliding the rubber boot off, the articulating part was really corroded.
My thoughts are this is maybe where water can enter further up the outer cable and thus corrode the inner, causing failure. On the new cable and my original port cable I have now packed grease into this knuckle and replaced the rubber boot.
I fed the cable from the rear, attaching it to the old one with Duck tape, with assistance it was introduced into the engine bay with little problems. The cable then goes into the gas tank area, under the helm floor and into the void under the throttle. I tried to remove the four bolts that hold down the gas tank lid, no way, three of the four totally seized
. Just hope I never ever need to get in there. Luckily, with some blasphemy I got the new cable through.Assembly of the throttle unit has been covered before and fairly straight forward, my shift is now silky smooth again and another job well done.
It does however bring me to wonder how the E series boats will get on with this problem. I’d imagine the buckets are actuated via a servo, when a cable stifferns it’s a total failure, at least with a manual you can feel the resistance and know what’s happening, just a thought.
on the topside of the cable in the bilge about 18" back from the through hull... its just what Im gonna do... I try to do stuff that is Reliable Available Maintainable Process driven RAMP...
