Clean out plug disaster...

[cwoav8r]

Clean out plugs are siezed, I mean really stuck. I have been trying the 2x4 method with no luck, and just when I thought the left one popped out, turns out the plastic around one of the pins gave way and the T handle is only attached on one side. Somewhat good news is I can get to the bottom of the plug on that side because the pump is removed. Bad news is I have tried to beat it out from the bottom with no luck. I am icing them right now and willing to try the floor jack on the right side, but if I break that plus like I did the left one what the heck are my options??? I am scared to death that I am going to damage the aluminum housing...

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

try disassembling it down in the hole and removing the parts just remove the small screws first and then you can get the t handle etc up out of the tube

 

[cwoav8r]

try disassembling it down in the hole and removing the parts just remove the small screws first and then you can get the t handle etc up out of the tube

Yep that did it... Ice and floor jack worked on the right side and... taking the left one apart in the hole worked. When the right one came out and I looked at it, I saw the screws I was like, duh...

One last question... should I replace with the same plugs or switch to the newer screw in plug.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

no choice you have to replace it with the same one

 

[cwoav8r]

Well dam... I guess I'm gonna need some EZ-Locks... I'm not doing nerfs again.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Oh no nerf balls is a fools errand seriously , there are 2 types of blowouts violent ones that blow open the rear hatch and shut down the engines so actually that type won't harm your engine but the one that makes the plug just come loose and not blow open the hatch will let you continue to drive until you fill your engine compartment and flood an engine. That is by far the worst and all a nerf ball does is pretty well guarantee if your plug blows you will have the one that floods the engine compartment but it won't prevent a blow out

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Also do not use any petroleum based grease on the seals go buy a bees wax base gasket for a toilet and place the wax on the seal and the round ring it goes into. also put it on your moving parts like the pivots for the reverse bucket and nozzle and cable ends,
bees wax is not water soluble and will provide protection to the seals as well as lubrication for your cable ends and cable boots .

 

[drewkaree]

One last question... should I replace with the same plugs or switch to the newer screw in plug.

The different styles of plugs are not interchangeable without doing fiberglass work, and even then, I don't know if the tapers and angles on the plugs themselves would mate up. The newer plugs may have a different shape to them, causing drag if they're not at least somewhat flush to the bottom of the boat.

Any pics of how it looks at this point? Kinda hard to know what the situation is with written descriptions, maybe a different eye than yours may catch something that solves this for ya.

When you get this all back together, I'd also recommend some sort of anti-corrosion spray, although it's gonna be tricky there near the seals. The beeswax on metal parts of the new plugs should do a great job, as Jeff mentioned, compared to having them freeze up on you again.

 

[OCMD]

You have to buy the exact plug and Yamaha rips you on them. Think I paid 375 for s new one last season.

 

[drewkaree]

You have to buy the exact plug and Yamaha rips you on them. Think I paid 375 for s new one last season.

That fiberglass work is starting to look like a reasonable solution!

 

[cwoav8r]

Here is a pic of the left plug... after it broke on me using the 2x4 attempt I removed the screws and used my floor jack and the top half pulled right out. I pushed the bottom half out toward the intake grate with a piece of PVC pipe and a hammer. This made the most sense as the impellor was already out... and I did destroy that part by trying to initially push the entire plug out from the bottom.

I already had the rebuild kits so I'll reuse one and I have the other one on the way from Amazon ($219).

Now I get to focus on replacing the steering cables (ugh).