Complete DEVASTATION...Not for the Weak

[McMark]

Sending some engine mojo your way.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Ugh. Sorry to hear this news.

 

[ToddW850]

what does the exhaust manifold and collector look like? i agree with @bronze_10 and @itsdgm that this may have started prior to limping home. disassemble the entire exhaust and look for corrosive penetration of the water jackets - though i hoped it would never happen, i've been waiting to see someone with a catastrophic failure due to this as i found one of my old manifolds were nearing break down.

someone please correct me if i'm wrong here: the engine could potentially run fine with a jacket leak. but if you cut the engines while underway, thus stopping the exhaust pressure, the leaking exhaust jackets could back flow, or suck, into the pistons due to the forward momentum pushing more water in? i would think this theory would be hard pressed to allow that much water in, though. but maybe it caused the non start and then the clamp wasn't tight enough, allowing more water to fill it up?

So, some of what you're asking is above my pay grade. But here are pics of the manifold and exhaust. You'll see him pointing to a crack in my manifold. It was not like that before. He said he caused that working on the seized bolts.

Not sure if this answered what you were asking. These are the only pics I currently have of the exhaust and manifold.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

@ToddW850 haha, trust me, I'm venturing into territory here I'm no expert in either. I was actually unaware of the exhaust differences between the 210 and 230, but the principal still applies. just throwing ideas out there for you.

I believe all those crystals in the exhaust ports are salt deposits. I had those in at least one of my eight between both engines. coincidently, that engine also ingested a fine water spray into the airbox from a cooling line pinhole. someone help me here: those crystals are not "normal," right? can we assume that is from: salt water leaking from the exhaust jackets; being expelled after being ingested through the air intake; the head leaking; or something else not right?

relatively speaking, those of us pooling our knowledge here and predominantly using these boats in salt are a small group, so there's not much to go on as these earlier models start developing long term issues. I'm sure if we were to scour the PWC forums, we could turn up some clues. example: after developing an overheat issue, I've found some PWCs with the same engines developing large sand/salt deposits in the "front" piston jacket exactly where I'm reading high temps on mine.

 

[mdwarchichoke]

Ouch I feel your pain. Almost got the engine back in ours. I bought mine with a dropped valve. (actually three of them after i tore it apart) Plenty of time to get her running before spring is back.

 

[ToddW850]

@ToddW850 haha, trust me, I'm venturing into territory here I'm no expert in either. I was actually unaware of the exhaust differences between the 210 and 230, but the principal still applies. just throwing ideas out there for you.

I believe all those crystals in the exhaust ports are salt deposits. I had those in at least one of my eight between both engines. coincidently, that engine also ingested a fine water spray into the airbox from a cooling line pinhole. someone help me here: those crystals are not "normal," right? can we assume that is from: salt water leaking from the exhaust jackets; being expelled after being ingested through the air intake; the head leaking; or something else not right?

relatively speaking, those of us pooling our knowledge here and predominantly using these boats in salt are a small group, so there's not much to go on as these earlier models start developing long term issues. I'm sure if we were to scour the PWC forums, we could turn up some clues. example: after developing an overheat issue, I've found some PWCs with the same engines developing large sand/salt deposits in the "front" piston jacket exactly where I'm reading high temps on mine.

@CrankyGypsy yeah I believe those are salt deposits too. But I was unable to flush this engine for over 2 weeks, so maybe that was the cause?

 

[ToddW850]

So I need to make a decision either way. I'm at the cross roads. I can purchase one of the SBT engines. After tax, shipping, warranty, and labor and all will come to around $2300-2400. That includes sending my core back to them. Or, my guy can rebuild my Original Yamaha engine for around $1800, including parts (at least pistons, rings, and such). He is sending my cylinder and head to his machine shop guy first, to make sure it checks out.

So right now, I'm leaning toward having my engine rebuilt, as long as it checks out. I kinda like things to stay original. Any advice either way??? @Murf'n'surf @itsdgm @txav8r @Cobra Jet Steering LLC @CrankyGypsy or any others?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

If it was my boat, I would try the repair before I trust another motor.

 

[txav8r]

I would rebuild too if my engine was rebuildable, compared to an SBT engine. If it wasn't rebuildable, I might consider a wrecked ski next and if not, I might suck it up depending on boat value, and buy a new engine.

 

[Scottintexas]

I have no mechanical knowledge but if you really trust your mechanic I would rather gamble on him than SBT. At least you've supported somebody local and will have a better relationship with them going forward.

 

[OCMD]

SBT = Garbage, speaking from experience with my old LS2000. They will fail, and fail quickly. Complete pieces of S*&t. Rebuild what you have.

 

[DCB-270]

My first SBT didn't last long on my Exciter. Sent it back and the second failed too . But warranty was from the original motor failing. Now I'm on my own. Bought a Original Yamaha crank and new pistons. Built it myself. Ran like a top and later set it to Group K for porting. Great motor until I sold.

 

[itsdgm]

@ToddW850 I have to agree with the others. I'd rebuild my own before trying another engine. But either way, good luck with the fix. Keep us posted.

 

[mdwarchichoke]

I would probably rebuild my own if it was doable.

Mine unfortunately took out the head. (three dropped valves, wiped out a piston, probably bent rod, and one cylinder would need to be re sleeved) By the time I bought a new cylinder head along with the parts to fix the block, I was getting pricing that was twice an SBT motor. I talked with a few shop owners on green hull, local dealerships in DFW, and a couple of local PWC "hot rod" shops; they all gave SBT good marks unless you fail to fix why the original motor came apart in the first place. (AKA stuck injector, coolant or oiling issue) Do not get me wrong, I know it is not a custom built supercharged motor etc etc

I cannot say I am not a little nervous, but I will let the group know if it implodes or not. I was on the looking for a used ski for a while, but harder to find than I thought. I also am still on the lookout for a used cylinder head. If I find one that will give me some more options in the future.

If your local mechanic warranties it with removal and re-installation I would be sold! Not that bad to do it yourself, but you need a free weekend to get it in and out along with changing over the externals mounted on the engine. (gear reduction, generator/magneto, etc etc)

 

[mdwarchichoke]

One other thought. You know were your motor has been run. I was also nervous about getting a block back that had been welded/patched or run a lot in salt water. I would go with the motor I knew first if rebuilding it was achievable.

 

[ToddW850]

Thanks everyone. I certainly feel better about my decision now. Will keep y'all posted.

 

[ToddW850]

Here is video from the day in question. As you can see, I did not get fast enough (in my mind) to cause water to force into the engine passed my vice grips. But also, you can see my port engine is running fine and I should have been able to get on plane. I do think a contributing factor is my off engine was still in neutral (bucket down) as @Hannibal mentioned.

But, as y'all can see from the video, the port engine is running fine and there should not have been a problem getting on plane. Let me know what y'all think the issue is.

 

[Speedling]

Rebuild is better than SBT.
Too bad no one really makes oversized pistons and a stroker crank. At least not that i know of. Maybe port match to the gaskets? I haven't run the numbers on the 1.8 engines but on the mr-1 the intake and exhaust are both larger than needed.

 

[Ronnie]

FYI on a guy parting out an 06 sx 230 ho.

http://yamahajetboaters.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=109&t=69702&p=555246&hilit=Parting+out#p555246

 

[ToddW850]

Got the boat back yesterday. I went with rebuilding the original. Obviously he had to replace some parts etc (pistons, rings).

But after he did the rebuild, it still wouldn't start. He narrowed it down to 2 clogged fuel injectors. So that's what was gonna be my original issue.

But now I'm good to go. Fires right up and sounds great. Both engines running fine. Gonna get it on the water on my days off and do the break in on it (seat the valves I believe he said).