Cost to service

[txav8r]

What some dealers consider first service is different than others. The manual says you don't have to replace the oil filter, but most would recommend. Same with the spark plugs, remove, clean, inspect, gap, replace...but most dealers would also recommend if your removing them, to just replace them, especially on the MR-1 engines, because those plugs are fragile. Most of us use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and also tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight and disregard the torque wrench settings, because we used anti-seize on them. So the dealer charges can also vary because they all don't do all the same work. If you have them winterize it, your really going to get raped, because there is nothing to do to a Yamaha besides blowing out the water, cleaning, removing everything from it, stabilizing the fuel.

 

[ArmyChief]

My dealer has a program if you buy $1000 gift card toward service, they match it ($2000) and will warranty the engine for LIFE!

 

[Glassman]

$600....$800.... ???

I'll comment once I get up off the floor!

 

[txav8r]

As always, it pays BIG DIVIDENDS to educate yourself here, and spend a half day doing this yourself. The dealerships get anywhere from $120-250/hour depending on where your dealer is. And it will take him about 4 man hours to do this work, and most of the time is spent waiting as the engines warm up, waiting as the suction pump extracts the oil. It isn't a fast process to change the spark plugs but it takes about an hour all told to change them, removing the head covers, removing the individual coils that contain 2 bolts holding them, unclipping the ignition leads, then fighting with the sockets and extensions to break the spark plug loose and get it out of a deep recess. I could have done both engines in less than 30 minutes with good equipment. But the rubber keeper in my "brand new" spark plug socket, first held tight to the plug and the extension kept pulling out of the socket and leaving it in the head. So I siliconed the rubber keeper so it would slide on and off the plug easier...and that somehow killed the adhesive that held the keeper in the socket...and the keeper would stay on the plug in the hole and the socket and wrench came out. Sheesh! I consider myself pretty good at this stuff after 50 years of doing it, but this time was a battle. Anyway, it isn't hard work, but sometimes you have to out think the equipment! lol Just like this, we all share how we do it, the issues we have, and how we get around them. I guarantee you that you won't overfill the oil yourself, and if you let a dealer do it, and they do many other brands of boats, you may find things not done the way you would want them, and they won't tell you any different. So spending about $200 to get supplies, you will have all the greases, lubes, and equipment paid for then, and all you will have to buy is the oil/filters/sparkplugs until you need grease or lube again. It is about 3 beers on the beer meter! Or if you have equipment problems, it may get you another beer! Are you really going to complain about that?

 

[McMark]

I had the dealer add brakes to the second axle on my new trailer to be PA legal. It was more than I thought it should be money wise but I beat him up pretty bad on the boat price so I let them do it. By the time I got home, the reservoir was empty since one brake hose was finger tight into the caliper I'm a total OCD diy guy and at that point I was sorry I let them touch it.

Also, don't you guys think that it would be best to pull the oil drain plug for the first oil change to flush chips and shavings out instead of sucking the oil out and leaving the chips behind.

 

[txav8r]

In a word...no. Anything more than yamaha procedures is a waist of time and effort, and runs rushes you don't yet know. Wait until I tell you why you don't want to run the synthetic oil your accustomed to in your vehicles...

 

[McMark]

I'm listening. Tell me about the oil.

What does "runs rushes you don't yet know" mean?

 

[Ronnie]

@Williamsone46 they said they changed the oil and filters, replaced the spark plugs and greased the unit.

If they changed the plugs too you got a better deal than I originally thought. At Tracy motor sports here in ncal $800 gets you a lube, oil and filter job (I.e., 10 hour service). I don't know what changing the plugs costs there and don't ever intend to find out or pay it. I changed the plugs on my 242 ls in less than 30 minutes for both engines. It's a lot easier to do than on the 230 series boats.

 

[Ronnie]

If you go with a non Yamaha oil filter like a k&n, purolater, etc. can save another $15 to $20 per filter.

 

[ArmyChief]

Wait until I tell you why you don't want to run the synthetic oil your accustomed to in your vehicles...

I can't WAIT to hear this. Since Yamaha HAS synthetic oil/lubes. Plus, I been in the maintenance field for over 30 years and have done MUCH research and hve REAL life data on Synthetic oil compositions versus conventional (DINO) oil. If you DO reply..might be better to start a NEW thread and then reply hear advising you did so.

 

[txav8r]

Synthetic has great pressure capability, but it does horrible as a storage oil. Funny thing about boats, they spend more time in storage than they do running. And yamaha recommends plain old Yamalube, although it is a blend. There are lots of considerations about boats that get overlooked, but there are also different ways to use them and everyone doesn't have the same expectations or the same needs.

 

[txav8r]

Let it be said that it is your boat and you are entitled to care for it, or not care for it, in the way you want to. And these discussions help us all to understand the philosophy other Yamaha, dealers, and other owners. My opinion is just that, opinion, and I am usually in the camp that follows Yamaha procedures and recommendations, but not always, as sometimes I want more protection or insurance than the minimum. There will always be an age old debate among Yamaha jetboat owners, to fin or not to fin, oil make up, cheap or quality oil filters, powerloading or float on and crank, to sub move or not, heck...we have even had heated debates on values. One thing is for certain, we are passionate about these boats and willing to share our experience and knowledge with others. No one can tell you the best way to do something, they can only tell you their way to do it, and hopefully why. We get a constant influx of new owners and members daily, and there will be repeated debate and discussion. This is a good thing ladies and gentlemen, because on some forums, if your a noob or ask a question, you are chastised from the beginning. That behavior is rare here, and most members not only wish a warm welcome, but are willing to share their opinion repeatedly without fail. I have continued this discussion on oil or other service components here in the "cost of service" thread because it is pertinent to it. Many of us change our oil not only annually, but at the beginning, and again at the end of the season, for the same reasons mentioned above...passionate about these boats. For every argument you make about one thing, there is another angle that can be applied or viewed from, and it just depends on which you place more importance on. And now, on with the show!

 

[MikeyL]

I can't WAIT to hear this. Since Yamaha HAS synthetic oil/lubes. Plus, I been in the maintenance field for over 30 years and have done MUCH research and hve REAL life data on Synthetic oil compositions versus conventional (DINO) oil. If you DO reply..might be better to start a NEW thread and then reply hear advising you did so.

X2. Total agreement.

 

[scubarick314]

Just got the boat back from the 10 hour service and it cost $260 including tax. I guess we got lucky on the price.

 

[steined]

After having gotten into General Aviation over the past year, I can tell you piston airplanes don't use synthetic oil either. There are properties of mineral oil that are difficult to get out of synthetics, and some of those deal with corrosion resistance. I was/am all about synthetic on engines that run regularly, but after having read the horror stories of GA engines and synthetic oil, which are used on a frequency I'd say similar to GA if not a lot more seasonal, I can understand why synthetic may not ALWAYS be best. If you run your boat all year long, at least once a week, maybe its fine.