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DIY decal removal gone South…

Bcbeitler

Well-Known Member
Messages
17
Reaction score
35
Points
52
Location
Rancho Cucamonga California
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Well I finally pulled the trigger on taking off the decals on my AR230… I knew there would be some ghosting involved because it is an 08, and thought I had everything I needed to take care of that. Well a whole day down the drain and I’m thinking I got in over my head. I started off with Meguiars 49 Oxidation remover. Noticed the ghosting was not going away. Hit it a few more times with the 49 and a round of Meguiars 45 polish to see if there was any light at the end of the tunnel, but nothing yet. I then saw a previous thread that showed wet sanding to help the gel coat. I started off with 1000 and did the entire side. Then a second pass with 2000. Followed that up with another pass of 49 oxidation remover and I am still not satisfied. The gel is not doing well and before I start anything else I needed to re-group. Any tips to help the gel coat restore back to gloss would be much appreciated! I included some pictures of what I’m working with right now. Heading to the lake on Sunday, but did not want to spend the entire week doing this project! Happy Monday!image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
I'm sorry this happened. RIP :(
 
@zipper has done this and got his boat looking new. He’ll chime in & help you out when he gets time.
 
What buffer and pads are you using? The shine will come back but it’s going to take some buffing and polishing after wet sanding.

There’s a lot of YouTube videos to walk you through this as well as members on here. Hang in there it will come around.

 
I've not removed ghosting, but I have done gelcoat repair. I will second that, "Hang in there" comment. I frequently looked at what I was doing and thought, "Oh, I messed this up this time--it looks much worse!" Only to have it ultimately turn out absolutely fine. Just takes some more work is all.
 
What buffer and pads are you using? The shine will come back but it’s going to take some buffing and polishing after wet sanding.

There’s a lot of YouTube videos to walk you through this as well as members on here. Hang in there it will come around.

I have a DA tac life buffer. I have been using wool pads for the oxidation and polish. Plan on using the foam pad for the wax coating.
 
@haknslash @tdonoughue thank you for the video and the optimism that this project is not completely out of my hands. Ordered some more oxidation remover and will do quite a few more passes with that. I may stay away from sanding for now. Thank you! Happy boating!
 
Hard to tell from the pictures...How were you sanding? Hand or machine? Wet or dry? I ask because I see more linear than circular marks in spots.

20210608_103950.jpg
 
Well I finally pulled the trigger on taking off the decals on my AR230… I knew there would be some ghosting involved because it is an 08, and thought I had everything I needed to take care of that. Well a whole day down the drain and I’m thinking I got in over my head. I started off with Meguiars 49 Oxidation remover. Noticed the ghosting was not going away. Hit it a few more times with the 49 and a round of Meguiars 45 polish to see if there was any light at the end of the tunnel, but nothing yet. I then saw a previous thread that showed wet sanding to help the gel coat. I started off with 1000 and did the entire side. Then a second pass with 2000. Followed that up with another pass of 49 oxidation remover and I am still not satisfied. The gel is not doing well and before I start anything else I needed to re-group. Any tips to help the gel coat restore back to gloss would be much appreciated! I included some pictures of what I’m working with right now. Heading to the lake on Sunday, but did not want to spend the entire week doing this project! Happy Monday!View attachment 152804View attachment 152805View attachment 152806
Being a black boat. It will look worse (way worse on black) then it will get better. Your going to need to use a lot of wet sanding paper. Some of those heavy scratches look to be from the paper loading up. @zipper what grit did you start with 800?

Sorry guys fell asleep at 9pm last night, long day. That is the true color of the gelcoat under the graphic. The red pigments in the brown are first to fade/oxidize, leaving grey. @BlkGS , I dont think you are going to get the gelcoat restored to original without wetsanding. You can try a rotary buffer, instead of a D/A, with a wool pad, keep it moving, and 3-m heavy cut oxidation compound, but I think you will get faster results with wet sanding. Keep in mind, always err on the conservative side. I found starting with 1000 grit to be a long day of sanding. I was going to try a small area of 800 to see if it removed better without being too agressive, but I never did. So I did sand with 1000 then 2000 and then I used the polishing compound with the D/A. It took me a full weekend to do both Orange topsides. Work in small overlapping areas (2'x 2') square on the hull, use a sanding block, keep it wet and sand in a circular overlapping motion. If you start with 1000, it will not be too agressive, by the looks of your oxidation. For some it may be too much to do, my arms were sore after I finished, but the value restored was obvious. I grew up wetsanding all the FRP stuff my father made for boats and dunebuggies in the 70's, so I knew what I was getting into. Ours was oxidized pretty badly, spent her first 8 years in Va. (Lake Anna). Start off easy, try a small area with 1000, 2000 and compound. If you not getting desired results with 1000, try 800, but be careful, the gelcoat is a thin coat. Ask any questions, If I lived closer to you and were permitted to travel more than 10 miles, I would give you a hand. You have a good layer of oxidation on the gelcoat. That Taupe color is a nice color, it will come back with some elbow grease. I keep her covered and stored inside now.

View attachment 115507

This is after sanding with 1000 and using 2000, you can see the oxidation being removed and reflection of the fender coming back. This was me "free handing", no block. I dont recommend it, unless there is a curved area or you have done it a lot.

View attachment 115508

At the end of the weekend I was worn out but very happy with the results.

View attachment 115509

Some of the tools and Marine 31 products used on the Beneteau. I did not have the Shurhold rotary buffer when I did the Yamaha. Having variable speed on the buffers is mandatory. This was the first pass with heavy cut oxidation remover with a rotary and wool pad. No polish or wax yet. Thankful I didnot have to sand.

View attachment 115597

View attachment 115510

Marine 31 kits: Porter Cable 7424xp Marine 31 Boat Oxidation Removal Kit this is the one I got, but a rotary will remove oxidation better. Here is a link to their products. Marine 31 boat care products, boat detail products, best boat wax
 
How fast is your buffer? Make sure you're rubbing/polishing and not burning. Easy to do with a variable speed.
 
I have a DA tac life buffer. I have been using wool pads for the oxidation and polish. Plan on using the foam pad for the wax coating.

You need a rotary - even a cheap harbor freight one - start with 3m compound if the meguires is not "cutting" it.
 
Rotary buffer and 3M wool pads will be needed. A DA could do it but not that fast and you may have sanded beyond a DA's capability to restore.
 
Being a black boat. It will look worse (way worse on black) then it will get better. Your going to need to use a lot of wet sanding paper. Some of those heavy scratches look to be from the paper loading up. @zipper what grit did you start with 800?

I started with 1000, 1500 then 2000 3m wet paper. I'd probably start with 800 if I were to do it again. And finish with the rotary and d/a buffers.
 
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Like zip and the others said before you need a rotary buffer. Your pissin in the wind with a da. You arent going to work 1000 scratches out with a da. I know you went to 2000 but you also arent working 1000 grit scratches out with 2000 either. Its too big a jump. 1000 then 1500 then 2000. With that said though you dont need to go beyond 1000. End there then a rotary buffer, wood pad and a good gelcoat compound. A good compound will get the gel looking almost 100%. The polish is just there to remove the super fine wool pad swirls and holograms. Dont move from 1 step to the next until everything is worked out from the previous step. On a side note, not all sandpaper is created equal either. You should be using good 3m wet/dry paper wrapped around a wetsanding pad. Some off brands of paper still use different grit scales or the grit isnt a consistent grade making thing very difficult to buff.
 
I have this video saved in my library for future reference.
 
Work in small sections at a time. That will give you the best results as well. Once you get the whole surface looking pretty consistent then you can over it all with larger passes to blend it all in.
 
2 minutes after you use a rotary on it, you'll kick yourself for never having one in the past! Just go easy with the rotary....it can burn through gel and clearcoat (cars) really fast until you learn the amount of pressure (barely any) and time spent in one area (don't heat up the gel/paint too much). Use the whole pad by holding it 90 degrees to the surface. You'll see a ton of guys holding the buffer 45 degrees and only using the outer 3 inches of pad.
 
I just did my boat, don’t give up, mines an 2009 212ss, Is not perfect but almost there, Still have light ghosting next time I’ll start at 800 wet sand. Heads up, this is a lot of work!
Here’s what I did: I don’t think my boat had been polished ever by previous owner, Wet sanded 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit using mirka ábralon sanding pads on a DA polisher. For correcting, I Bought the mcguires oxidation removal kit, used the compound on a heavy cut wool pad on a rotary buffer. Then moved on to a DA to finish using lake country forced rotation pads , orange for polishing, and black for the wax. I follow this retailer in YouTube for guidance. Best of luck

 

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