Dual battery....opposite situation of Tonka.....HELP

[Ronnie]

I have my wiring set up like @Kahuna Khris but with two additional leads for the second motor. I like the way @Bubblehead suggested because it would clean up the wiring a little but I would have to use some type of extension to get all of the accessory leads to the switch since there is not a lot of room on the respective terminal which is on the bottom of the switch.

Now I’m interested in what others think/are doing. My plan is still to just replace the start/house battery with a deep cycle battery. I will probably go bigger and purchase it from Costco for under $100, interstate brand but not agm. Here are two standard sized ones I was looking at last night but I need to verify the specs on what I have before I buy a new battery.

 

[Bubblehead]

@Ronnie you can run a common acc + wire from switch to helm, then use that to power a bus, or switch panel

 

[Kahuna Khris]

Got new batteries in and now a new issue.
No power to console at all except for starter key. No bilge, gauges, fishfinder, horn, aerator, livewell blower....nothing. Proved all connections, breakers and fuses good in battery area. Also checked all fuses under engine hatch and all OK. Must be something under console access hatch. Has be be a fuse because all happened at once but is it possible all those things are on one fused circuit? Will start hunt tomorrow but any suggestions welcomed.

 

[Kahuna Khris]

Positive leads from acc should go to house switch, other side of switch to house batt+, Engine +leads go to Start switch and other side of switch to start batt +, all negatives to associated battery and both batt neg connected. Simplified of course, you should have inline fuses close to batt on +lead to protect wiring. I am sure others will add to this

Thanks very much for taking the time to make that diagram and replying.

 

[Bubblehead]

Most common would be a wire hiding that you didn't see (in my experience and usually negative wire). Next would be common fuse at battery. Do you have a voltage meter or test light?

 

[Kahuna Khris]

Yup. Tested every circuit and all good in battery compartment and engine fuse box. Pain in the butt and tedious. Hate chasing electrical issues. Guess will just open the hatch tomorrow and start testing some more.

 

[txav8r]

If all your ACC items are not functioning, then your ACC power or ground isn’t making contact, isn’t connected, or fuse is bad. Or...you hooked the ACC ground to positive or visa versa. It happens, and more often than you would think. Anytime you remove batteries, label everything, shoot pictures, and put it back exactly like it was. Something isn’t right, that’s all. You’ll get it, just be persistent!

 

[Kahuna Khris]

If all your ACC items are not functioning, then your ACC power or ground isn’t making contact, isn’t connected, or fuse is bad. Or...you hooked the ACC ground to positive or visa versa. It happens, and more often than you would think. Anytime you remove batteries, label everything, shoot pictures, and put it back exactly like it was. Something isn’t right, that’s all. You’ll get it, just be persistent!

You nailed it moving forward. Could’ve kicked myself for not taking pics of original setup before taking apart. I always do that and didnt this time. I am paying for it now with time on my knees checking fuses and connections. Since they are all good it must be a wire connected to the wrong terminal as I dont think there is any one common fuse forward of the engine compartment. Thx

 

[Kahuna Khris]

New batteries installed. 1 deep cycle for accessories and 1 starting battery for starter. This also resolved issues with my cannon downrigggers too which didn't work due to voltage sensitivity issue. Thanks for all the advice.