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If you do the “engines on” mod vs. installing a switch on the dvsr ground wire will that eliminate the ability of the solar panel to trickle charge the batteries while at anchor?
I don’t see how the switch on the ground would effect it. With the switch on its the same as not having it. When it’s off and on the shore chargers I don’t know what takes place with the solar power.
I ended up putting a bullet connector on the ground line....took 10 minutes and can easily unplug when I run the dual bank charger. I’ll post a pic when I grab the boat. Last mod is cutting vents under the bench seat for my sub.
I ended up putting a bullet connector on the ground line....took 10 minutes and can easily unplug when I run the dual bank charger. I’ll post a pic when I grab the boat. Last mod is cutting vents under the bench seat for my sub.
If you do the “engines on” mod vs. installing a switch on the dvsr ground wire will that eliminate the ability of the solar panel to trickle charge the batteries while at anchor?
I don't have a 242X yet but based on my research here is my belief. If you do the "engines on" mod then the solar panel will only charge the house battery and will not be able to charge the start battery (it needs the DVSR to bridge the batteries so power can flow between them). I believe you could manually turn the EMERG PARALLEL switch on to act as a manual DVSR but this shouldn't be necessary. That's the whole point of the dual battery setup. If you are anchored and partying for a long time and run down the house battery you still have a fully-charged start battery to get you home.
Old thread here but I’m dealing with same issue with adding dual bank charger.
BEP confirmed for me today that you can cut the red loop wire & connect it to the SWITCHED side of either of your battery master switches (start or house) and it will disable the DVSR (i.e. separate your batteries) whenever that battery is switched off.
I just cut the red loop wire as close to the end as I could on the side closest to the red marked post, crimped a 3/8” ring connector on the wire and it was long enough to reach over to connect on the battery master switch post. Took about 10 minutes.
Seemed like an easier solution than tapping into the boat ignition harness so I thought I’d share.
Old thread here but I’m dealing with same issue with adding dual bank charger.
BEP confirmed for me today that you can cut the red loop wire & connect it to the SWITCHED side of either of your battery master switches (start or house) and it will disable the DVSR whenever that battery is switched off.
Seemed like an easier solution than tapping into the boat ignition harness so I thought I’d share.
Just verified this works as intended. I hooked to my Start battery switch, which is always on when I’m running the engines and always off when at home charging.
This is all informative, but i am a bit confused. I installed a 2 bank promariner 12 tender on my 2016 242s (no solar) and has the Standard DVSR from the factory. I wasn’t aware of any mods to this. I installed the promariner on the batteries and left everything else the same. Is their anything else i need to do. The promariner 12 is a smart 2 battery charger and will automatically charge and tend both batteries as needed. Is there anything else i need to do?
This is all informative, but i am a bit confused. I installed a 2 bank promariner 12 tender on my 2016 242s (no solar) and has the Standard DVSR from the factory. I wasn’t aware of any mods to this. I installed the promariner on the batteries and left everything else the same. Is their anything else i need to do. The promariner 12 is a smart 2 battery charger and will automatically charge and tend both batteries as needed. Is there anything else i need to do?
Look at your DVSR when your charger is plugged in - if the little red LED is on then the DVSR is automatically connecting your two batteries because it is sensing a charge.
If you want the smart charger to do what it’s capable of and charge each battery independently then you need to do one of the mods with either the red loop or the little black ground wire in order to turn the DVSR off while charging.
DVSR does this because when it’s trying to charge from the running engines there is only one power source to charge both batteries, unlike your smart charger.
Well - i guess - what isn't happening is my question. The Promariner indicates the health of each battery, so whether the DVSR is helping bridge the batteries on the Tender, isn't it not able to charge and tend both batteries. Any reason why I should 'mess with it'? I'll go check it if the light comes on, but if in the end, whether via independently or via the DVSR (boat is stored at my house) - any reason why I should do anything if the end result is both batteries being kept at full charge?
Well - i guess - what isn't happening is my question. The Promariner indicates the health of each battery, so whether the DVSR is helping bridge the batteries on the Tender, isn't it not able to charge and tend both batteries. Any reason why I should 'mess with it'? I'll go check it if the light comes on, but if in the end, whether via independently or via the DVSR (boat is stored at my house) - any reason why I should do anything if the end result is both batteries being kept at full charge?
The charger is not able to charge them completely independently because they are directly wired to each other with the DVSR energized.
I do not know exactly how big of a deal it is, but if you have one battery going bad or severely dishcharged (such as house battery from a long day of stereo and other electronics) then the discharged battery will be pulling current from your other battery through the DVSR (possibly in excess of the low amperage provided by the charger) because the voltage wants to equalize across the two batteries. That is probably not good for the health & life of the battery with the higher charge.
If you’re not comfortable messing with it or not worried about getting every last bit of battery life then you’re probably fine.
Well - i guess - what isn't happening is my question. The Promariner indicates the health of each battery, so whether the DVSR is helping bridge the batteries on the Tender, isn't it not able to charge and tend both batteries. Any reason why I should 'mess with it'? I'll go check it if the light comes on, but if in the end, whether via independently or via the DVSR (boat is stored at my house) - any reason why I should do anything if the end result is both batteries being kept at full charge?
Normally batteries should be charged separately for greatest serviceable life span and peak performance throughout the life span. Not sure if I noted in this thread but I now have both of my equal AGM batteries as one bank to share the load. They get used and charged that way while out on the water but I maintain them as separates on shore power. What I found is that with a giant demand on them from pumps, amps and more the high discharge rate on just one battery was worse than the impact of keeping them combined. My downside is that I could possibly end up too flat to start the boat but I do keep a jump pack on board. Basically my DVSR could just be disconnected at this point as I flip all three battery switches (start, house, combine) to on when I head out on the water but that is for equal batteries sharing a giant load and taking the risk of not having a dedicated start battery
I’This mod is a bigger concern for those with batteries of different type, size or age. Different types have different float voltages and when a big battery is in poor health it can drain a smaller battery faster than the charger can help.
Old thread here but I’m dealing with same issue with adding dual bank charger.
BEP confirmed for me today that you can cut the red loop wire & connect it to the SWITCHED side of either of your battery master switches (start or house) and it will disable the DVSR (i.e. separate your batteries) whenever that battery is switched off.
I just cut the red loop wire as close to the end as I could on the side closest to the red marked post, crimped a 3/8” ring connector on the wire and it was long enough to reach over to connect on the battery master switch post. Took about 10 minutes.
Seemed like an easier solution than tapping into the boat ignition harness so I thought I’d share.
To clarify “working properly”...I know it’s working because my charger will now indicate the Start battery is topped off before the House battery will show fully charged after a long day on the lake using the stereo. Before I did this mod they both showed the same status until they were both fully charged.
Thanks guys. Picking up my new boat Thursday and will be transferring my duel battery charger over. It's been many years since I've had to think about this stuff.
Question... I snipped the red looped wire and attached it to the switched side of my house master switch. This will allow my 2 bank battery charger to charge independently when the house master is turned off. Got that.
What about my solar panel? Will this still charge when my house master is turned off? What is it charging and when- both or just one of them? Does this modification to the cut wire loop affect the solar panel?
Ok, so I did some nosing around this morning. This is for my 2019 242X (May, 2019 build).
With the solar panel unplugged and all battery switches off, both batteries were reading 12.74VDC. I then plugged in the solar panel. The START battery jumped to 12.9VDC. The HOUSE battery was unchanged at 12.74VDC. DVSR LED was OFF.
While doing my ribbon delete, I kept checking the voltages. The START battery continued to climb (13.4VDC). The HOUSE battery stayed at 12.74VDC. DVSR LED was still OFF.
After I finished the first ribbon, I checked it again. This time the DVSR LED was ON and BOTH batteries were reading 13VDC.
So what does this mean?
1) The solar panel is wired into the START battery directly. No battery switches involved.
2) The only way for the solar panel to charge the HOUSE battery is via DVSR (once the START battery is full).
3) If you have a solar panel, you should NOT do the red wire DVSR mod (where the red loop is cut and connected to a keyed hot). If you do this, then your HOUSE battery will NOT be charged by the solar panel when the engines are off.
To put it another way... If you want the solar panel to charge the HOUSE battery while floating, you need to leave the DVSR red wire intact. If you also want to install a 2-bank charger/tender for when you have shore power, you will need to disconnect the black DVSR ground wire (either physically or by installing a switch) whenever you plug it into the tender. This disables the DVSR.
I'm only on Day 3 of owning this boat but I've read a lot here and I'm fairly decent w/ electrical things. I welcome any thoughts/corrections.
Question... I snipped the red looped wire and attached it to the switched side of my house master switch. This will allow my 2 bank battery charger to charge independently when the house master is turned off. Got that.
What about my solar panel? Will this still charge when my house master is turned off? What is it charging and when- both or just one of them? Does this modification to the cut wire loop affect the solar panel?
Based on that other post re: solar, I would say it won’t charge your house battery unless that switch is on.
Park it in the sun and see if the red led on the DVSR goes on and off with your house switch (keep in mind there’s a delay) & that should tell you.