Easiest way to power nav and vhf for AR230??

[Weebs74]

I am looking to add a hard mounted VHF radio and Garmin plotter/fish finder to my AR-230. I was just wondering if anyone had some good advice on the easiest way to power these accessories on my 2007 AR230. I don't think I have an accessory switch to just plug into.

Thanks so much,

Eric

 

[GTBRMC]

Some good thought starters here: https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-a-switch-panel-to-yamaha-boats.2025/
I found this in the FAQ: https://jetboaters.net/faq/ (also in the drop-down menu below the banner, top of the screen)
Drilled down into the FAQ: https://jetboaters.net/faq/how-to-upgrade-your-electronics-leds-gps-bus-bars-perfect-pass.25/

There are a lot of different ways to skin this cat, strongly suggest adding a DC service panel. I went with a 4-switch panel in 2010...wishing I had gone with an 8 switch panel at this point.
Good luck! Ask questions, this crew will support you all the way.

 

[Weebs74]

excellent. I will have to look into adding a switch panel then. seems to make the most sense instead of trying to run wires for everthing.

 

[PaulyB]

You could tap off the radio switch if you wanted. So whenever your radio is on your GPS is on....

 

[Weebs74]

you don't think I would trip any fuses with that??

 

[waterboy]

I looked into this as well. Sorry I forget the numbers but will talk in general terms. The main accessory power lead on the boat runs from the battery to behind the dash and then daisy chains to everything back there. It is large enough to power everything stock on the boat and then some even if it all ran at the same time, which it never will. I tapped into this line and installed a small bus terminal block to tap into. Off of that block, then runs the stock main line going to the accessories, a line to my VHF and a line to my plotter. Again, plenty of capacity but I also will not be adding anything else to it.

Look into the amp draw ratings for everything and see if this makes sense for you to do it this way. I was comfortable with it and ran with it. Good luck.

 

[Danielmailin]

I have my VHF and GPS connected to the same switch. No problems running them at the same time.

 

[Ronnie]

I went the simple route and ran heavy gauge wiring from the battery switch to blue sea bus blocks under the helm. These powers my amp, blue tooth device and aftermarket depth finder. In another upgrade session I ran an addition set of leads from the battery to small bus blocks under the glove box on the port side. These power a standard 12 v port and one with two USB ports. Both positive leads have inline fuses in them.

 

[Weebs74]

I ended up coming off the stereo wiring right near the switch panel and soldering in the connections for the vhf there. The installation went well and I'm not too concerned about blowing that fuse as I don't use the stereo when underway and can easily turn the vhf off when I'm sitting and using the stereo. Any comments?

 

[Bruce]

I ended up coming off the stereo wiring right near the switch panel and soldering in the connections for the vhf there. The installation went well and I'm not too concerned about blowing that fuse as I don't use the stereo when underway and can easily turn the vhf off when I'm sitting and using the stereo. Any comments?

Is that breaker a 10 amp breaker? I believe factory stereo is around 5 amps so it should be fine.

I would have used the accessory 12 volt power.

 

[Weebs74]

thanks Bruce. I considered that as well once I was already underway on the original plan. If I have any issues tripping fuses, I will def switch it over there. I don't anticipate adding any more electronics to the boat...just holding steady with what I've got. Any advice on how to determine how good my factory VHF install went. I mounted a 4ft antenna to the very top of the wakeboard tower and installed a new horizon 1700 series radio. tried it in the driveway about 2 miles from the ocean and only was picking up weather on channel 4.