• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

FSH drain tests and where the water goes

If you notice water in you storage areas beneth the back seats after you wash out the inside of boat it is probably leaking from your two floor drains. The round fittings don fit the contour of the boat. If you silicone around them next to the floor that should stop that leak. This helped me have dry storage under the two seats and battery area.
 
If you are having problems with one of the floor drains not draining very well check under the rear seats to make sure the flex pipe is not bent upwards. I had to re-adjust one to get the water to flow out.
 
I inspected my anchor drain after seeing this video. I will say mine is not nearly as poorly done as some I've seen on here, but its surely not perfect and water proof.

Shouldn't this be a recall issue that Yamaha must fix immediately???

These boats are taking on water from basically a poorly designed hole in the hull. I'm no expert, but water pouring into a boat is probably not a good thing.
 
My boat is at the dealership for the 10hour service and here is their response. I will verify the below is true when i pick up the boat.

"We filled the anchor locker twice and water would not run in at all and definitely not in like in the video. Additionally in the video there is a gap in the drain plug between the top and bottom hull and there is not a gap in your boat. Unfortunately, we could not find where any water could for sure be running in."
 
What about the plastic live well thru hull pick up that rides right on the trailer bunk?
 
@JDinfla That is something I am throwing around in my head. I am thinking about moving the factory bunks more toward the center line of the boat and add another set more to the outside of the hull. I am not happy at all that yamaha or shorelander allowed for bunk placement the way it is.
 
The bunks wouldn't have to go far. there is some adjustment on the brackets. Another future project.
 
Very interesting thankfully we have some awesome boat owners on here to help solve our Yamaha issues. This is a great find will have to plug it up or figure out a better way channel the water out before the temps get below freezing. Hopefully will get my metal garage up and won't have to worry about it this winter.
 
Just thought I'd throw a quick post up simply to reaffirm what @OUT ON THE REEF shows in his video. He is spot on!
Finally got around to addressing this while I'm in winter lay-up.
My factory installed drain was as bad if not even worse than the one he showed. Photos below should be pretty self explanatory but the steps I did are as follows:
< Removed the drain and cleaned up all the silicon.
< Purchased a Perko 1/2" thru hull and cut the hose nipple off. (Needs a 13/16" hole for the threads)
< Used a sanding drum on the Dremel tool to very slightly enlarge the hole. A little clean up really showed how big the gap is between the hull and anchor locker.
< Packed that gap with a bunch of RTV silicone. Keep working it in so you get that crack completely filled.
< Walked away and let the silicone dry for 24 hours.
< Installed the thru hull with a good amount of Life Seal (probably the same as 3M 4000) in the hole, on the outer flange, and then all around the thread base where it come through the hole.
< Snug up the inner nut into the goo.
< Clean everything up.
< It's not shown in the photo but I came back a couple days later when everything was dry and used my Sonicrafter to trim off the threads flush with the inner nut.

And for what it's worth, when I initially filled the anchor locker with water before repairing anything, I had a lot of water leaking right through the bow eye threads. Hopefully I've got that sealed up as well now too.
I should be "High and Dry" again. ;)
 

Attachments

  • DSCN3412.JPG
    DSCN3412.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 391
  • DSCN3413.JPG
    DSCN3413.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 90
  • DSCN3414.JPG
    DSCN3414.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 100
  • DSCN3422.JPG
    DSCN3422.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 94
  • DSCN3428.JPG
    DSCN3428.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 98
THX for the great write-up and pics. I will take a careful look at my new 190 FSH Sport after taking delivery later this week.
 
Just thought I'd throw a quick post up simply to reaffirm what @OUT ON THE REEF shows in his video. He is spot on!
Finally got around to addressing this while I'm in winter lay-up.
My factory installed drain was as bad if not even worse than the one he showed. Photos below should be pretty self explanatory but the steps I did are as follows:
< Removed the drain and cleaned up all the silicon.
< Purchased a Perko 1/2" thru hull and cut the hose nipple off. (Needs a 13/16" hole for the threads)
< Used a sanding drum on the Dremel tool to very slightly enlarge the hole. A little clean up really showed how big the gap is between the hull and anchor locker.
< Packed that gap with a bunch of RTV silicone. Keep working it in so you get that crack completely filled.
< Walked away and let the silicone dry for 24 hours.
< Installed the thru hull with a good amount of Life Seal (probably the same as 3M 4000) in the hole, on the outer flange, and then all around the thread base where it come through the hole.
< Snug up the inner nut into the goo.
< Clean everything up.
< It's not shown in the photo but I came back a couple days later when everything was dry and used my Sonicrafter to trim off the threads flush with the inner nut.

And for what it's worth, when I initially filled the anchor locker with water before repairing anything, I had a lot of water leaking right through the bow eye threads. Hopefully I've got that sealed up as well now too.
I should be "High and Dry" again. ;)
great job better then my fast repair and thanks for the detail description is well appreciated
 
That little stub of a drain on mine barely reached beyond the thickness of the hull. Must have been cut short for some reason. I had to do something different.
Either way...we've both stopped water from pouring in! :thumbsup:
 
Exelent im glad you got it fix
Happy navigating my friend
 
Thanks for the great fix write up and pics. How much did you have to enlarge the hole for the new fitting to fit?
 
My FSH is at the dealer right now getting a laundry list of warranty items repaired. Been there almost 2 months. I put the anchor locker anomaly on the "fix list".
Im curious to see what they do with it.
 
My FSH is at the dealer right now getting a laundry list of warranty items repaired. Been there almost 2 months. I put the anchor locker anomaly on the "fix list".
Im curious to see what they do with it.
what 2 months that unacceptable ,you paying for your boat and you cant use it that sucks ,i feel your pain.
i hope they do a great job since you are being very patient .
 
How much did you have to enlarge the hole for the new fitting to fit?
Barely at all...maybe 1/8" diameter.
A light touch with a Dremel sanding drum and I was there. Material disappeared faster than I thought it would.
 
Started my anchor locker drain repair. Pulled the factory drain out which was about 3/4" too short to be effective. The gap inside between the hull and the anchor locker is about 1/4" wide. See photo. Any water going in from outside of the drain or from the anchor locker was running right down into the hull somewhere.

The boat has been garage kept and has not seen water since November. The gap is still completely wet and I keep getting a wet mixture of water and fiberglass dust coming out. It's only been a few tsp of water but who knows how much is trapped in the hull. I guess I'll let it dry out for a few days before installing the new improved Perko drain.

Love the FSH but Yamaha should be ashamed by the quality control on their boats.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2256.JPG
    IMG_2256.JPG
    395.4 KB · Views: 58
Thinking on this, it's not as bad as you might think. When you seal off the entryway for the water at the anchor locker drain, you're not sealing off the other end. Hence, there is still a place for what, if any, water that is left over, to drain and/or evaporate over time. The hull is made of fiberglass so there is no worry of rot. The water drains into the area ahead of the changing room so if you're concerned about the water evaporating, perhaps leave the console changing room door open and let air circulate into the interior while it is stored. The other sources for water can be the seat pedestal holder and the storage compartments...but those drain where they should, not into the hull itself. As for quality control, I'm in complete agreement.
 
Back
Top