hard wire a 12V high-volume inflator deflator in the boat????

[Mainah]

I end up hardwiring and mounting one of the karger 12v pumps. The rubber feet on the larger 12v pump pull out of the plastic. I was able to pull out the the longer tabs and twist the feet to use the holes for bolts while still have the rubber feet for a bit of vibration reduction. I mounted in the starboard swim deck storage on the small aft wall. I used 3/4 ballast hose and ran through the bilge to my shower head door (shower removed). I used 10 awg wire for the run from my helm distribution/fuse panel (27 amp rated draw). Lastly I used a relay so that the connext screen shower icon is now my power button for the air pump.

Full write up and photos coming once the rest of my Spring 2018 mods are done.

 

[zelone]

I installed mine in that small compartment behind the speaker on the swim deck. I have a 10' silicone hose extension for reaching big tubes while in the water. I also used a relay, controlled by a switch at the helm. I was hoping it would be much quieter, by being in that compartment. my hose popped off the pump end, so I have to get in there and permanently reattach it. Kind of annoying, but worked great for a while.

 

[Mainah]

I installed mine in that small compartment behind the speaker on the swim deck. I have a 10' silicone hose extension for reaching big tubes while in the water. I also used a relay, controlled by a switch at the helm. I was hoping it would be much quieter, by being in that compartment. my hose popped off the pump end, so I have to get in there and permanently reattach it. Kind of annoying, but worked great for a while.

I shaved the little pins on the pump outlet with a dremel and hose clamped the hose on. Ballast hose does not usually kink which is why I went that route.

 

[Mainah]

Here is a photo of how I mounted it. The other side of the white wall is the bilge. I used the swimdeck speaker hole to gain access from that side.

 

[2kwik4u]

Going to revive a slightly older thread here.

Our 12V inflator almost died this weekend. It was BARELY able to inflate our tube before I shut it off because the bearings were getting so hot. It's had a good run, but after 15yr of use, it's finally giving up on us.

This failure has given me the green light to get another pump. I want to install a permanent 12V pump on the boat. We inflate both regular towables (low pressure), and SUPs (actually a big disc) that require high pressure. Looks like the Airhead and the Sevylor brands are top picks from other threads.

HOWEVER, one of the things I really like about my handheld is that I can put the hose on "backwards" and power DEflate as well. This works great if we decide we're done with the tube or the day, and want to put it back into storage instead of tripping over it for the remainder of the day.

SO........Does anyone use their permanently installed inflator as a deflator as well? If so, how well does it work?

 

[BigAbe75]

Going to revive a slightly older thread here.

Our 12V inflator almost died this weekend. It was BARELY able to inflate our tube before I shut it off because the bearings were getting so hot. It's had a good run, but after 15yr of use, it's finally giving up on us.

This failure has given me the green light to get another pump. I want to install a permanent 12V pump on the boat. We inflate both regular towables (low pressure), and SUPs (actually a big disc) that require high pressure. Looks like the Airhead and the Sevylor brands are top picks from other threads.

HOWEVER, one of the things I really like about my handheld is that I can put the hose on "backwards" and power DEflate as well. This works great if we decide we're done with the tube or the day, and want to put it back into storage instead of tripping over it for the remainder of the day.

SO........Does anyone use their permanently installed inflator as a deflator as well? If so, how well does it work?

@jcyamaharider and I were talking about this the other day, actually. Could be done easily just by plumbing a 2nd line for the intake/deflate side. Would take 2 thru hull connectors, then you take the cap off both and hook the hose on the correct side for your application.

 

[BigAbe75]

Here’s my current install. Haven’t got the wiring done, yet. But the stock cord reaches over to the battery terminal from its current location, so we’ve just been using it as is, until I get a free evening to finish it up. Been having too much fun using it, instead.

 

[tdonoughue]

I have the Airhead as well, but just have it permanently wired to the battery (and sitting in that compartment). It does deflation. Just move the hose to the other port on the pump and it sucks instead of blows.

<let the jokes begin>

 

[Bizywk]

Here’s my current install. Haven’t got the wiring done, yet. But the stock cord reaches over to the battery terminal from its current location, so we’ve just been using it as is, until I get a free evening to finish it up. Been having too much fun using it, instead.

View attachment 101934View attachment 101935View attachment 101936View attachment 101937View attachment 101938View attachment 101939View attachment 101940

Great looking install! What did you use for the flush mount air connection port?

 

[BigAbe75]

Great looking install! What did you use for the flush mount air connection port?

Thanks! Check out the Google Doc link in my signature. It has links to all the parts I used.

 

[Bizywk]

Thanks! Check out the Google Doc link in my signature. It has links to all the parts I used.

Very Nice! I found exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

 

[2kwik4u]

Looking into this again. Goal for me is a single port on the stern, and a single two position switch. Switch in the "fill" position pushes air out of the port, switch in the "empty" position sucks air in the port.

Premise is that using it as a deflator will help stow it back when we're done.

Here's the plumbing schematic I worked out the other day. Need to figure out the wiring next.

 

[BigAbe75]

Looking into this again. Goal for me is a single port on the stern, and a single two position switch. Switch in the "fill" position pushes air out of the port, switch in the "empty" position sucks air in the port.

Premise is that using it as a deflator will help stow it back when we're done.

Here's the plumbing schematic I worked out the other day. Need to figure out the wiring next.

View attachment 134446

Well, that would depend on your pump. Mine doesn’t have a reverse. You get the suck vs blow function by moving the hose on the pump itself. I’d have to get out a notepad, but I think this could be plumbed with a couple of T’s to switch modes back and forth. I can’t see your schematic well enough on my phone, I’ll have to get the computer out.

 

[2kwik4u]

Well, that would depend on your pump. Mine doesn’t have a reverse. You get the suck vs blow function by moving the hose on the pump itself. I’d have to get out a notepad, but I think this could be plumbed with a couple of T’s to switch modes back and forth. I can’t see your schematic well enough on my phone, I’ll have to get the computer out.

That's the exact plan. Few Ts and some 12V solenoid valves to direct flow around. 1/2in 12V valve are about $20/ea and I'll need 4 of them. Probably not worth the money to be honest, your previous suggestion of having a fill and a drain port is far easier. Doesn't seem quite so neat though.

 

[BigAbe75]

That's the exact plan. Few Ts and some 12V solenoid valves to direct flow around. 1/2in 12V valve are about $20/ea and I'll need 4 of them. Probably not worth the money to be honest, your previous suggestion of having a fill and a drain port is far easier. Doesn't seem quite so neat though.

Slick! When you get all that done, send me the parts list and i might update my install. The fold and sit on it method is working good for me, but a little “suck” function might be welcome. Lol