HELP - Battery Questions

[Five Faces]

My curiosity got the best of me, I wanted to know where I was at so I unplugged the ProSport 12 and took a multimeter to the batt’s and both were at 11.3V. Upon plugging back in it went through the Stage 1 system check and moved to Stage 2 charging. Not sure why it didn’t do that initially, or why it didn’t switch when it hit a certain threshold (or that threshold is 11.3V)??? Anyway seems to be working as I expected now, we will see where we are at in the morning.

 

[Dave burke]

Lol. Couldn’t sleep?

 

[Five Faces]

Lol. Couldn’t sleep?

You got that right, spent most of the night reading this damn forum. Now my simple dead battery issue turned into:

1) Check solar panels for reverse polarity
2) Modify Connext voltage readings to read correctly
3) Modify DVSR by adding switch for smart charger
4) Install ProSmart Charger
5) ModIfy bilge pump wiring, wire direct to battery

Did I miss anything? What else did Yamaha F-up electronically on my 2017 242X? I bought a recent model to avoid crap like this.

This forum is both a blessing and a curse, I almost wish I didn’t stumble across it. As they say ignorance is bliss.

 

[F.M.]

Did I miss anything? What else did Yamaha F-up electronically on my 2017 242X?

The sound bar comes from the factory wired in series with the rear cabin speakers.

If you put it on its own channel, it sounds much better. But.... since you don't have enough channels on the factory amps, you'll have to pick 2 sets of speakers to wire in parallel, which will also sound better. I chose the rear cabin and swim deck speakers.

 

[Five Faces]

The sound bar comes from the factory wired in series with the rear cabin speakers.

If you put it on its own channel, it sounds much better. But.... since you don't have enough channels on the factory amps, you'll have to pick 2 sets of speakers to wire in parallel, which will also sound better. I chose the rear cabin and swim deck speakers.

DAMN YOU!!! There goes another night of sleep.

 

[Five Faces]

So my batteries are upto 12.4V which is about 75% charged, but when I measure voltage while on the charger it is 12.6V. I don’t expect I will ever get to a full charge if the charger is only outputting 12.6V

Im starting to wonder if I have a bad charger??? Or is the charger working as it should and I do indeed have bad batteries???

 

[Canuckjetboater]

You got that right, spent most of the night reading this damn forum. Now my simple dead battery issue turned into:

1) Check solar panels for reverse polarity
2) Modify Connext voltage readings to read correctly
3) Modify DVSR by adding switch for smart charger
4) Install ProSmart Charger
5) ModIfy bilge pump wiring, wire direct to battery

Did I miss anything? What else did Yamaha F-up electronically on my 2017 242X? I bought a recent model to avoid crap like this.

This forum is both a blessing and a curse, I almost wish I didn’t stumble across it. As they say ignorance is bliss.

@Five Faces .....young feller - didn't your Granddaddy tell you a boat is a hole in the water into which you pour time and money .......most of it willingly?
[

You got that right, spent most of the night reading this damn forum. Now my simple dead battery issue turned into:

1) Check solar panels for reverse polarity
2) Modify Connext voltage readings to read correctly
3) Modify DVSR by adding switch for smart charger
4) Install ProSmart Charger
5) ModIfy bilge pump wiring, wire direct to battery

Did I miss anything? What else did Yamaha F-up electronically on my 2017 242X? I bought a recent model to avoid crap like this.

This forum is both a blessing and a curse, I almost wish I didn’t stumble across it. As they say ignorance is bliss.

@Five Faces 1. What does your Yamaha battery voltage gauge show when you are underway. Mine reads 13.9 amps. 2. What amperage does your charger out-put? (I say this as 12v lead-acid batteries while on equalization charging might receive over 15v) The maximum my "new technology" charger out-puts is 25 amps. While mine is charging it swings (repeatedly) from 25 amps to 1 amp and all over the place based on the needs at a particular stage. From the screen shot you pasted of a page from the manual of your charger it looks like it is a multi-stage charger which is good. New technology chargers use battery feed back regarding internal battery temperature, battery voltage and assess resistance that might indicate sulfates. Doing so can prompt the charger to shock the battery to break-down sulfates. Under normal charging profiles it will probably vary (maybe wildly and seemingly randomly - but with purpose) the amperages - to properly charge it. If your charger is functioning properly and your 12v battery (lead acid flooded) is healthy the charger should be able to charge it to 12.73 volts (+/-).....AGMs (13.0v +/_). For comparison - from a 12v lead-acid battery chart I have:

• equalization charging 15V +
• near full charge while charging 14.4V-15V
• near full discharge while charging 12.3V - 13.2V
• fully charged light load 12.4V - 12.7V
• Fully charged heavy load 11.5 - 12.5
• reads 12.7V with no charge/discharge for 6 hours = 100% charged
• reads 12.5V with no charge/discharge for 6 hours = 80% charged
• reads 12.2V with no charge discharge for 6 hours = 60% charged
• reads 11.9V with no charge/discharge for 6 hours = 40% charged
• reads 11.6V with no charge/discharge for 6 hours = 20% charged.

I installed a new series 24 TPPL battery after properly charging it with a new technology charger. On the volt meter (of course a volt meter on a boat is obviously subject to some error +/_) of my boat at installation it showed 12.8 volts. Two days later (no solar charger or maintenance charger) it showed 12.2 volts. I am not sure if this 12.2V reading was normal or if it was a bit low because there had been a nlot of heavy rains and my auto bilge may have been working. At any rate I started the engine and ran it in the slip only at idle and immediately went to 13.9V. At this time I am so new to jet boat stator charging that I need to "digest" the voltage values I am receiving. With my cruisers or any I/O that had alternators with big amperages you could put your throttles into neutral and run your RPMs up to 2500 for a few minutes and really bring up the charge. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the stator of my SX 195 "appeared" to be able to charge my TPPL at idle. Early days for me - I need more data.

 

[Dave burke]

So my batteries are upto 12.4V which is about 75% charged, but when I measure voltage while on the charger it is 12.6V. I don’t expect I will ever get to a full charge if the charger is only outputting 12.6V

Im starting to wonder if I have a bad charger??? Or is the charger working as it should and I do indeed have bad batteries???

I’d give it some more time. If I remember, it took a while for mine to get to maintenance more and they weren’t weak to start with.

Regarding the other other things you noted, not sure why you want you want to adjust the Connext voltage. Is it reading different than your voltmeter? Mine is pretty much the same.

Why modify the DSVR? If you turn the battery switches off when you leave the boat, wouldnt that do the trick?

Regarding the bilge, you’re going to hate me but I think a better way to go is to install a second bilge under the swim platform.Wire it directly to the battery so it works with the battery switches off. Several posts on this.

Last but not least, I agree with @F.M. about the stereo. But if it’s not bothering you, put that lower down on the priority list.

Just remember what BOAT stands for. I learned that on this forum!

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I’d give it some more time. If I remember, it took a while for mine to get to maintenance more and they weren’t weak to start with.

Regarding the other other things you noted, not sure why you want you want to adjust the Connext voltage. Is it reading different than your voltmeter? Mine is pretty much the same.

Why modify the DSVR? If you turn the battery switches off when you leave the boat, wouldnt that do the trick?

Regarding the bilge, you’re going to hate me but I think a better way to go is to install a second bilge under the swim platform.Wire it directly to the battery so it works with the battery switches off. Several posts on this.

Last but not least, I agree with @F.M. about the stereo. But if it’s not bothering you, put that lower down on the priority list.

Just remember what BOAT stands for. I learned that on this forum!

@Dave burke ......I agree 100% with your suggestion re the second bilge pump. That has been my configuration for the last 10 boats I have owned. Had I the presence of mind to look the last time I was at the boat I would know the answer to this.....I assume you put a Y valve into the original discharge hose for the factory oem pump to add the hose from the second (new) bilge pump? Do you install an anti-backflow valve on that or do you consider it high enough above the waterline to not need one?

 

[Five Faces]

UPDATE: So as impatient as I am I brought the original batteries to AutoZone. Upon checking them they said they are good (12V / 25% charge) but said they need to be charged. I asked them to quick charge and retest which they did (13V / 100% charge). I believe this tells me that the brand new ProSport12 smart charger I bought is defective??? Thoughts???

Regarding the other other things you noted, not sure why you want you want to adjust the Connext voltage. Is it reading different than your voltmeter? Mine is pretty much the same.

The two voltage readings (one for each batt) on my connext screen always shows the same (or nearly the same) voltage because of the DVSR. I want it to read each batt voltage independently.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/fix-for-connext-battery-voltage-issue-confirmed.11381/

Why modify the DSVR? If you turn the battery switches off when you leave the boat, wouldnt that do the trick?

The DVSR is active even with the batt switches off, see post #20 in the link below. In order to get the full benefit of a multi-bank smart charger the DVSR needs to be off. There are a couple different solutions, none of witch are perfect if you have solar panels. But the simple solution of adding a switch to the DVSR seems to be simple enough. DVSR "on" under normal operation, "off" when using the 120V multi-bank smart charger.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/making-dvsr-active-with-engines-on-only.9798/

In addition I have to leave at least the house battery on since I am currently wet slipped and need power to the bilge pump (another friggin bullet point).

I can't find it now but someone suggested using one of these switches on the negative DVSR lead going to the battery:
Amazon.com: Ampper Top Post Battery Disconnect Switch, Battery Master Switch Isolator for Power Disconnect Cut Off: Automotive

All this additional reading is payback...I hope you cant sleep for days, lol!!!

 

[Dave burke]

I put second discharge hose behind the speaker on the starboard side. High enough I’m not worried about backflow. Stole the idea from @swatski, he’s got a good post on this topic. If you can’t find it, let me know.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

UPDATE: So as impatient as I am I brought the original batteries to AutoZone. Upon checking them they said they are good (12V / 25% charge) but said they need to be charged. I asked them to quick charge and retest which they did (13V / 100% charge). I believe this tells me that the brand new ProSport12 smart charger I bought is defective??? Thoughts???



The two voltage readings (one for each batt) on my connext screen always shows the same (or nearly the same) voltage because of the DVSR. I want it to read each batt voltage independently.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/fix-for-connext-battery-voltage-issue-confirmed.11381/



The DVSR is active even with the batt switches off, see post #20 in the link below. In order to get the full benefit of a multi-bank smart charger the DVSR needs to be off. There are a couple different solutions, none of witch are perfect if you have solar panels. But the simple solution of adding a switch to the DVSR seems to be simple enough. DVSR "on" under normal operation, "off" when using the 120V multi-bank smart charger.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/making-dvsr-active-with-engines-on-only.9798/

In addition I have to leave at least the house battery on since I am currently wet slipped and need power to the bilge pump (another friggin bullet point).

I can't find it now but someone suggested using one of these switches on the negative DVSR lead going to the battery:
Amazon.com: Ampper Top Post Battery Disconnect Switch, Battery Master Switch Isolator for Power Disconnect Cut Off: Automotive

All this additional reading is payback...I hope you cant sleep for days, lol!!!

@Five Faces .....do you really need to leave a battery on to have the bilge pump on auto? I do NOT with my 2020 SX195. I only have one battery BUT it clearly states in my manual (as it should be) that the bilge pump will run (automatic) with the battery switch set to "OFF" - meaning to me that the bilge is wired directly to the battery.

 

[Five Faces]

@Five Faces .....do you really need to leave a battery on to have the bilge pump on auto? I do NOT with my 2020 SX195. I only have one battery BUT it clearly states in my manual (as it should be) that the bilge pump will run (automatic) with the battery switch set to "OFF" - meaning to me that the bilge is wired directly to the battery.

Yes, 2017 models the bilge pump was wired to the battery through the battery switch. I believe they finally corrected this in 2018 and beyond. Completely silly design...of all the boat I have owned not one had a bilge pump that was switched. It's starting to make me wonder who they have working in the electrical dept at Yamaha.

Here is just one of the many threads on this subject:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/really-dumb-bilge-pump-question.13763/

EDIT: Here is another:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/auto-bilge-im-a-jackass.22090/

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Yes, 2017 models the bilge pump was wired to the battery through the battery switch. I believe they finally corrected this in 2018 and beyond. Completely silly design...of all the boat I have owned not one had a bilge pump that was switched. It's starting to make me wonder who they have working in the electrical dept at Yamaha.

Here is just one of the many threads on this subject:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/really-dumb-bilge-pump-question.13763/

@Five Faces .....understood. Then for obvious reasons you do need to wire that bilge pump directly to a battery.

 

[Dave burke]

UPDATE: So as impatient as I am I brought the original batteries to AutoZone. Upon checking them they said they are good (12V / 25% charge) but said they need to be charged. I asked them to quick charge and retest which they did (13V / 100% charge). I believe this tells me that the brand new ProSport12 smart charger I bought is defective??? Thoughts???



The two voltage readings (one for each batt) on my connext screen always shows the same (or nearly the same) voltage because of the DVSR. I want it to read each batt voltage independently.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/fix-for-connext-battery-voltage-issue-confirmed.11381/



The DVSR is active even with the batt switches off, see post #20 in the link below. In order to get the full benefit of a multi-bank smart charger the DVSR needs to be off. There are a couple different solutions, none of witch are perfect if you have solar panels. But the simple solution of adding a switch to the DVSR seems to be simple enough. DVSR "on" under normal operation, "off" when using the 120V multi-bank smart charger.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/making-dvsr-active-with-engines-on-only.9798/

In addition I have to leave at least the house battery on since I am currently wet slipped and need power to the bilge pump (another friggin bullet point).

I can't find it now but someone suggested using one of these switches on the negative DVSR lead going to the battery:
Amazon.com: Ampper Top Post Battery Disconnect Switch, Battery Master Switch Isolator for Power Disconnect Cut Off: Automotive

All this additional reading is payback...I hope you cant sleep for days, lol!!!

It’s hard to know if the charger is defective. Your batteries were super dead so my guess is it will take a while to bring them to full charge. Patience! Maybe check with ProMariner?

Re the DSVR, you taught me something. Didn’t know it had to be off for the charger to work properly. But it makes sense. Mine is still in my garage, can’t get to the boat to install it...

Your point about the Connext screen is a good one. I’ll read that thread tonight if I can’t sleep!

 

[Canuckjetboater]

I put second discharge hose behind the speaker on the starboard side. High enough I’m not worried about backflow. Stole the idea from @swatski, he’s got a good post on this topic. If you can’t find it, let me know.

@Dave burke .....many thanks! AWESOME FAQ section on this forum as you recommended I found @swatski with his well-explained and documented second bilge modification complete with parts numbers.....impossible to beat advice like that! Thank you both!

 

[Dave burke]

Glad we could help. I don’t remember if I wrote this in the post but the hardest part for me was drilling holes for the bilge in the solid piece of aluminum at the bottom of the space under the swim platform. I think I broke 3 drill bits!