@HELP my trailer is stuck!

[Ismael Breton]

[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] my trailer is stuck. Will not go in reverse. I have a tree in front of of and cannot disengage trailer brake. I have a 2013 single axle trailer for ar192. The 4th pin on the connector that goes to the car broke and I think that has something to do with it. Can I release the brakes any other way?

 

[Master-Spud]

Does your trailer have one of these? Put the key in the slot and will over ride the reverse brakes.

 

[Ismael Breton]

Yes, trailer looks just like that. Thanks so much for help. I guess I'm a little unsure of how to place key in slot. I

 

[Master-Spud]

It basically just gets wedged in there... Only thing you have to make sure of is it's first unlocked, as in the circle part is all the way forward so the key can fit in behind it.

 

[haknslash]

You just place it in there so that the tongue can't move back.

Edit we posted at the same time lol.

 

[96Pirate]

Like this @Ismael Breton

 

[Ismael Breton]

Ok. I have the hitch hooked up. Do I need to unhook from car to move the circular metal piece forward?

 

[Ronnie]

If you can pull the tongue out manually / by hand do so and block the actuator from activating the surge brake (pushing the pin to the back of the slot) by taping a nickel into the slot where they key goes, assuming you don't have a key. See pics.

Also there may be tab or button to release the brakes under the tongue.

 

[justason]

The 4th pin doesnt have anything to do withthe brakes. I believe that is the groound wire , you'll want to get that replaced.

Masterspud nailed the rest of it

Fyi: these hydraulic brakes can fail while underway. Especially after a hard braking event (stay engaged). Note thAt pin/slot orientation ...sometimes a hard acceleration will help

 

[Ronnie]

You can either detach the trailer from the tow vehicle and pull the actuator out by hand or leave it attached, chalk the trailer wheels and pull the actuator out using the tow vehicle's power.

 

[96Pirate]

Is the tree in front of your truck? I normally just pull forward hard enough to move it forward then coast to a stop. But that might not work if the tree is in front of the truck. You should be able to lift hitch off and then move it forward.

 

[Ismael Breton]

Got it! Free!!!FREE AT LAST!!! Haha you guys are awesome! I detached the hitch and pulled tongue out by hand. Inserted key, and TOUCHDOWN! A couple of questions. Is it ok to tow boat now on highway? Should I keep key in or out? How can I ensure that brakes won't get stuck while I replace this cable?

 

[Bruce]

Taping the key in will ensure the brakes do not trip. But based on the fact that you did not just push the trailer around with the brakes locked I am assuming that you have a smallish tow vehicle which needs the trailer to brake on its own. It also is likely illegal to tow in your state without brakes and lights. I would tow to an autoparts store or Walmart, go inside and buy a new connector then install it in the parking lot.

 

[96Pirate]

The key should drop out once you pull forward unless you have it taped in. You should make sure it is removed otherwise the brakes will not engage. I can normally feel the trailer slide forward when I brake hard enough and you can feel the trailer slow down. You can also feel it disengage when you pull forward.

 

[Ronnie]

Please don't tow your boat / trailer around with the lock out "D" key in place. I only suggested taping a nickel in place because I often have to move from forward to reverse several times to get my boat into the spot where I store it. Without the tape, or in my case a magnetic key, the key would fall out every time I shifted out of reverse.

 

[swatski]

I bet you are using a 4 pin plug adapter and should be using a 5 pin adapter on your trailer pig tail.
The 5 flat is the way to go. Then you never have to get out of your truck to go in reverse. There are adapters available at most any auto parts store. I use a 7 round - 5 flat adapter.

--

 

[smthng]

If you don't tape the slug in the slot, it will fall out. If you think your brakes still work, leave it out. The only reason I know of for you to need to travel with it is if you know something is wrong with the brakes and don't want them to apply... and this would only be until you can get them fixed (ASAP). If your problem only occurs when reversing, put the slug in when you reverse, leave it out for anything else.

The real fix is the 5-pin wiring plug with reverse wire. It's worth it if you have to back up... like, ever.

 

[ScarabMike]

Flip the cable connector around, plug it in , and turn on your lights. This will send power to the brake solenoid and unhook it.

 

[MattFX4]

Does your trailer have one of these? Put the key in the slot and will over ride the reverse brakes.

How do you get the key to stay in the slot? I was trying to back my boat in to storage yesterday and brakes kept locking up on me. I pulled forward to slide the tongue so I could insert the key, but the key would not stay in the slot. The previous owner taped it in, but the tape finally broke loose this weekend. This seems like a piss poor design to me.

 

[Ronnie]

Matt the stock "D" key is designed to fall out when the tow vehicle vehicle moves forward. This assures that the surge brakes are not mechanically blocked from operating when the trailer is being towed. If you want it to stay in use tape or get a magnetic aftermarket key . Just remember to remove it before towing .