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Help ! New to the Jet life

buckbuck

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At cold I have nothing on my stick. Yeah, that is a tad high on your boat.
 

Hoosiercuts

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Also, be sure to look around when you have the back opened up to replace the scupper valve, I had 10 broken hose clamps down there I was able to repair
Mike,
At cold I have nothing on my stick. Yeah, that is a tad high on your boat.
at cold there’s nothing on your stick ?
 

buckbuck

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That is what my boat looks like. Others say they have just a 1/4" on the stick. Your boat was way over filled. Suck out every thing you can, change the filter and add 2 quarts. Warm it up on the water per the manual. Then add until you get between the lines.
 

biglar155

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That is what my boat looks like. Others say they have just a 1/4" on the stick. Your boat was way over filled. Suck out every thing you can, change the filter and add 2 quarts. Warm it up on the water per the manual. Then add until you get between the lines.
And leave the air filters out until you have the oil level situation under control. Then get new air filters.
 

Hoosiercuts

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That is what my boat looks like. Others say they have just a 1/4" on the stick. Your boat was way over filled. Suck out every thing you can, change the filter and add 2 quarts. Warm it up on the water per the manual. Then add until you get between the lines.
My oil smells like gas also. Could it be an injector?
 

parkerexpress

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Yamaha
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2006
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SX
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23
I get nervous running it that low Buck, but I understand what you are saying. Filter, 2 quarts, then finish the fill on the water. For now, I will suck out some oil in the driveway since I just changed it all and then top it back off at the lake.
 

biglar155

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Can I just run it with the water hose hooked up ?
To get the proper oil level measurement you're going to need to have warm engines with the boat in the water.

I feel your pain. My launch is 75 miles from my house.

Once you've dealt with it for a few years, you'll be able to play the "driveway voodoo oil level" game and get close. But right now you need to establish a baseline - which means warm engines with the boat in the water.
 

Hoosiercuts

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To get the proper oil level measurement you're going to need to have warm engines with the boat in the water.

I feel your pain. My launch is 75 miles from my house.

Once you've dealt with it for a few years, you'll be able to play the "driveway voodoo oil level" game and get close. But right now you need to establish a baseline - which means warm engines with the boat in the water.
Thanks a lot I took her into the marina today. I smelled gas in the oil
 

Gym

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I get nervous running it that low Buck, but I understand what you are saying. Filter, 2 quarts, then finish the fill on the water. For now, I will suck out some oil in the driveway since I just changed it all and then top it back off at the lake.
@parkerexpress I have the same year & model boat as you. Ideally with boats using the MR-1 motors you want a low indication on the stick with cold engines with the boat sitting level. I like to see my oil below the L on the stick. If you are getting no indication on your stick you have no way of knowing if you are just a couple of ounces low or a quart or more. The few times I've seen my oil level above the L I've always opened the air box and occassionally have found a little oil sitting at the bottom that I've wiped up. The only time you should see your oil at the F mark is on the water after completely warming up the engines. Usually after running for 10 to 15 minutes at about 7k rpm, then idle for a few minutes. then shut down and check the level.
 

parkerexpress

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I appreicate the feedback Gym. I will suck out some oil and take her to the water. I always grew up on the premise that Full or just over Full was the way to go, this is a new process that makes me nervous, but I understand the reasoning. I am glad to hear that you have had success with the same year model using that process.
 

Gym

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I appreicate the feedback Gym. I will suck out some oil and take her to the water. I always grew up on the premise that Full or just over Full was the way to go, this is a new process that makes me nervous, but I understand the reasoning. I am glad to hear that you have had success with the same year model using that process.
I agree with you about the historical Full mark on the stick. This issue with the MR-1 motors is one of a few engineering screw ups on Yamaha's part. We just have to "adapt and overcome". I just checked mine this morning as we are prepping to go out. I found both of mine a tad over the L mark which is unusual for me. The boat was not very level front to back. I opened the air boxes to check for oil just incase but found everything dry.
 

biglar155

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I appreicate the feedback Gym. I will suck out some oil and take her to the water. I always grew up on the premise that Full or just over Full was the way to go, this is a new process that makes me nervous, but I understand the reasoning. I am glad to hear that you have had success with the same year model using that process.
The thing you have to remember is that you're not measuring the oil level in the crankcase (like 99.99% of the engines we're accustomed to dealing with,) you're measuring the level in a remote reservoir.

It's also impossible to do a true "complete" oil change unless you want to perform some crazy yoga poses and reach a plug in the rear of the engine that wasn't really meant to be removed. This is why - once you have the level where you want it - you should measure the amount of oil you remove and only add that amount back in (plus a bit for the filter of course).

It sure would have been nice if Yamaha had figured out a way to avoid this.
 
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