HydroPhase RideSteady is installed

[MidnightRider]

I took a little bit different approach installing the RideSteady for a Connext boat than normally done. I decided to remove the tachs and use those holes for the RideSteady and my LED controller. Nothing wrong with the standalone rectangle RideSteady display, just like the dash mount display better. Thanks to the heads up from @Mainah, you can't just remove the tachs totally -- something about them being integral to the whole system cause Connext was build on top of what was already there which @Mainah could explain correctly in great detail and I won't even try.
So I just turned the tachs around and remounted them inside the helm compartment.

The LED controller is a dash mount WetSounds LED controller. Its definitely on the spendy side but I splurged cause I like what it has to offer with the 4 zone control. LED light install will begin some time soon.

Can't wait to try it out this weekend!

 

[MidnightRider]

Anyone know if there a benefit to setting the master RPM engine to port vs starboard for RPM synching on the ridesteady or doesn't really matter? Looks like it comes with the port engine set as the master.

 

[haknslash]

I can't remember which would is affected more by pump loading or if that even matters. @swatski can maybe chime in

 

[MidnightRider]

Played with the RideSteady out at the lake today, didn't pull anyone but just messed around with it and gotta say its pretty sweet system.

 

[swatski]

Played with the RideSteady out at the lake today, didn't pull anyone but just messed around with it and gotta say its pretty sweet system.

I can not imagine my Yamaha JB without it. I use it constantly, GPS mode for water sports and RPM mode for everything else.
With new toys like ZUP board that can be ridden in 4 different positions, and with kids and adults various ages and skill levels, being able to make precise and easy speed adjustments while towing - with the knob - makes my boating so much more fun, not to mention safer, too.

I don't know if it matters which engine is the master, they synch beautifully across the whole range.
Normally the STRBD works harder and typically PORT side is slower some at WOT in our twins, but R-S range is not limited like the factory cruise and push the engines as far as they can go.

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[swatski]

A little off topic here, but I will say enjoy my RIVA ECU reflash very much - for it's smooth throttle response.

It sucks whenever I have to switch back to stock/factory (if no premium gas is available), the factory throttle response just sucks. That is where I wish I had the E-throttles, for smoother ramping. When you teach kids (or adults) to deep water start/stand up on anything like wakeboard or skis - you want smooth throttles.

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[MidnightRider]

A little off topic here, but I will say enjoy my RIVA ECU reflash very much - for it's smooth throttle response.

It sucks whenever I have to switch back to stock/factory (if no premium gas is available), the factory throttle response just sucks. That is where I wish I had the E-throttles, for smoother ramping. When you teach kids (or adults) to deep water start/stand up on anything like wakeboard or skis - you want smooth throttles.

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Does this help with the touchy throttle response when coming off idle. I dislike how touchy that is. Be interested if this sorta stretches that initial range out and makes the throttle transition smoother.

 

[swatski]

Does this help with the touchy throttle response when coming off idle. I dislike how touchy that is. Be interested if this sorta stretches that initial range out and makes the throttle transition smoother.

Yes. That is pretty much the reason I got it. Wife's approved, I think I even posted her reaction which was priceless.
Basically, the RIVA reflash gets rid of most of that nonsense "nothing-nothing-nothing-all out" response of the OEM throttles (with a ton of dead range followed by a very narrow band).

Otherwise - and a better way to do this - one needs to pull a " @gmtech16450yz " and basically replace the APS pulleys with a custom build ones that permit longer cable travel, then switch throttle levers to a gaffrig-style system. NOT easy.

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[Ridesteady]

Anyone know if there a benefit to setting the master RPM engine to port vs starboard for RPM synching on the ridesteady or doesn't really matter? Looks like it comes with the port engine set as the master.

Generally speaking, it doesn’t really matter which engine is the sync master.

If you have a particularly weak engine where it requires substantially more throttle than the good engine to maintain the same RPM, you may want to set the weak engine as master. Otherwise, Ridesteady might not be able to provide enough throttle within its operating parameters to sync the engines.

 

[W3bexec]

Anyone know any good Ridesteady installers in Colorado?

 

[Ridesteady]

Anyone know any good Ridesteady installers in Colorado?

Any Yamaha dealer can install it (though some are still not acquainted with it). Even a tech that works on Yamaha boats could do it no problem - it's really all about following the manual.

Here's a video here showing what's involved in an install:

 

[0627Devildog]

Admin Update: Updated thread name from "HydroStream" to "HydroPhase" t0 more accurately reflect the subject. Great write up. . . looking at this mod for next season.

 

[djetok]

Any Yamaha dealer can install it (though some are still not acquainted with it). Even a tech that works on Yamaha boats could do it no problem - it's really all about following the manual.

Here's a video here showing what's involved in an install:

It's really easy to install. If your color blind get someone to point out the red wire on the key switch not the brown. Doh.

 

[RenoJetter]

Nice Install! Does it work really well on the 212X? I'm looking to add this to mine next spring. Thanks!

 

[MidnightRider]

Nice Install! Does it work really well on the 212X? I'm looking to add this to mine next spring. Thanks!

100% yes - worth every penny and works awesome.

 

[djetok]

Nice Install! Does it work really well on the 212X? I'm looking to add this to mine next spring. Thanks!

We love it for watersports but another thing we like for is when we are in rough weather. Just like last weekend we were in a cove called lost lake on keystone lake. It protected very well so when we were going back to marina we were shocked with the wind and white caps. I set the ride steady at 15 mph and just cruised back with the nose slightly higher.

 

[swatski]

We love it for watersports but another thing we like for is when we are in rough weather. Just like last weekend we were in a cove called lost lake on keystone lake. It protected very well so when we were going back to marina we were shocked with the wind and white caps. I set the ride steady at 15 mph and just cruised back with the nose slightly higher.

Good point! The RideSteady is fantastic for cruising in rough (and smooth) water, there is not struggle with the binnacle throttle levers and a very precise setting possible. I would typically set RPM for cruising.

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[Brian McIver]

I took a little bit different approach installing the RideSteady for a Connext boat than normally done. I decided to remove the tachs and use those holes for the RideSteady and my LED controller. Nothing wrong with the standalone rectangle RideSteady display, just like the dash mount display better. Thanks to the heads up from @Mainah, you can't just remove the tachs totally -- something about them being integral to the whole system cause Connext was build on top of what was already there which @Mainah could explain correctly in great detail and I won't even try.
So I just turned the tachs around and remounted them inside the helm compartment.

The LED controller is a dash mount WetSounds LED controller. Its definitely on the spendy side but I splurged cause I like what it has to offer with the 4 zone control. LED light install will begin some time soon.

Can't wait to try it out this weekend!

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I saw your pics on the Hydrophase website and it inspired me to use the round display as well. Like you I think the rectangular display blows, but I don't want to lose my tachs either. I'm looking to fabricate a bezel to mount it at an angle through the dash cupholder. I'll be sure to post how it goes.