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I keep adding oil?

It's either leaking somewhere or it's not enough to show on the dipstick. I would keep putting oil in until it shows up on dispstick. Pull the air filter and run it. Best case you have a mess and have to suck some out, worst case you have bigger fish to fry.
 
I thank everyone for the assistance. I am sorry getting back to the forum so late. What I found was, engine had 8 quarts in it. To recap: After running on hose for ten minutes I shut down satisfied everything was working properly; checked the oil and it was as should be between F and L. When I came back a day or two later, there was a dry dipstick; this happened three times. I quit filling it and contacted JB.net. Still at no trace of oil, and after hearing the members weigh in, I filled it with oil again between F and L and bumped the starter at no ignition. Nothing. But it didn't sound strange so I decided to actually run it for a short 10 sec interval. Now the oil was over full so I siphoned some off until it was between F and L I ended up repeating the 10 second run and check interval until the level stabilized. It seems to be ok after several hours.

I am concluding that the oil pump check valve was not working as I had expected. I have never had this problem before. Now, if one goes to check the oil and sees nothing on the dipstick, that could lead to the serious problem of overfilling with oil. One has to see a trace of oil on the dipstick just to know the system has oil, but if one assumes it was low when it had only drained down into the sump, one may be constantly overfilling with oil. Running for very short intervals and shutting down seems to be the way to get the system pumped back, but unless one sees some trace of oil on the dipstick, one cannot really have the confidence to proceed.

There are a few other things that I was not totally aware of: 1. The oil pump can probably fill an empty oil cooler in less than 15 seconds; I would shorten the run interval; 2. I do not think I am going to completely remove all oil when doing an oil change; I think that leaves the oil pump starved of lubrication.
 
You'd probably be surprised how often we hear about over filled engines, seems like at least twice year
 
Yes. I think the fix is: DO NOT ASSUME THE OIL IS LOW BECAUSE THE DIPSTICK IS DRY.
 
Thanks for your advice Zipper. I was hesitant to check oil on running engine because the the engine hatch was very dark when i was in the process, and the oil pump can work faster than I can.
 
Thanks for your advice Zipper. I was hesitant to check oil on running engine because the the engine hatch was very dark when i was in the process, and the oil pump can work faster than I can.

All good. I try not to give advise on things I have not experienced before. We have all been there at some point with the MR-1's and getting oil level correct with the dry sump. I have not made a mess yet...Knock on wood.:banghead:
My experience with dry sumps was as a teenager, MANY years ago, when my father built and installed one on our autocross dunebuggy with a modified Porsche 356 engine. That thing was insanely quick.
 
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@zipper I thought the oil pump check valve would keep oil in the cooler. I have not experienced a drain down like that before.
 
When I had my ecu go bad and stuck and injector open in bimini I had to run it to make the crossing back... when I got home I drained the oil from a drain bolt at the bottom of the engine and suctioned oil out of the reservoir as well... all total I took out of 9 quarts of oil /fuel mix. With that much in there were only a few spots where it hit the air filter... these engines are pretty tough!
 
When I had my ecu go bad and stuck and injector open in bimini I had to run it to make the crossing back... when I got home I drained the oil from a drain bolt at the bottom of the engine and suctioned oil out of the reservoir as well... all total I took out of 9 quarts of oil /fuel mix. With that much in there were only a few spots where it hit the air filter... these engines are pretty tough!
Wow! Manual says 4.5 quarts per engine. You did well. Are the engine(s) working properly now?
 
Yup.. I put in fresh oil and ran it for about 20 kin.. then changed the oil in tank and replaced it... did that 4 or 5 times... been fine ever since.
 
Yes. I think the fix is: DO NOT ASSUME THE OIL IS LOW BECAUSE THE DIPSTICK IS DRY.

The only reason I suggested puting oil in until it at least shows on the dipstick, not in the operating rang, was due to the OP repairing the engine. If you want to be certain there is enough oil, even if perhaps overfilled, then showing something on the dipstick would be needed. Under ideal conditions I would agree if you are sure you were in operating range checking warmed up on water as per manual, or sure of range when changine oil and putting back in what you took out counting a little extra for filter change.
 
Yes Scokill, I agree with that. I think once you know that your in the range. I was afraid it was getting into cooling system somehow. I never had a oil pump check valve release that much oil into the sump and leave the cooler dry on the dipstick threetimes. The engine had been sitting only a two days after running it on the hose. Even now the Starboard cooler is dropping while the Port remains right up near full. Thanks for feedback.
 
Something doesn't seem right ... the owner's manual does state that when cold, the oil should show at the Low line on the dipstick...

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Oil keeps draining back into the sump on the starboard so the dipstick keeps registering lower and lower. I plan to go out on the water tomorrow to test a port cylinder fix and a and a starboard overheat fix. I do not think this "problem/no problem" will change anything.
 
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