Jet drive disassembly

[veedubtek]

I left the impeller and shaft attached @Julian . I was gonna go further, and do new bearings and all, everything just looked so good I didn't feel the need to fool with it.

 

[Skysurfer2010]

This thread made me feel so much better! Last season I kept my boat in a fresh water slip and had the best season ever because of it. At the end of the season my pumps looked like yours. I tried everything including power washing and although it got the crap off it had my pumps looking pretty sad and old. And then the rest of my boat is absolutely immaculate. I thought I hurt my resale value and have been really nervous to wet slip it again this year.

Now I know they can be brought back to looking new for just a couple hundred bucks. Bring on the wet slip again! I'll probably just sand blast them every 3 years or so.

Also, do you guys keep the factory anodes or did you go to magnesium? My anodes look hardly used up. I also keep my batteries plugged in on a battery maintainer which probably doesn't help the electrolysis.

Before:


And after:

 

[Seadeals]

Great work. Factory anodes for me. I just cleaned them up. As an update, the heat of the exhaust did cause the paint bond to fail in the localized area during the Cooper River run. The metal is still in great shape and the paint elsewhere is still perfect, so I am just going to let it ride and spray Boeshield on the bare part to prevent corrosion since I did not anodize the assembly parts. It is still way better than it was but I am a little bummed it couldn't take the heat. The other pump did the same.

 

[Speedling]

I wonder if a high heat paint like that grill paint would fair better? But it may not stick as well either.

 

[veedubtek]

@biffdotorg - what do they look like now?

 

[biffdotorg]

A little corrosion from Saltwater use, but nothing out of hand. I am going to stick an endoscope in and inspect the impellers today.

I spent quality time in it yesterday in the driveway. Hand buffed every black mar on white gelcote. Wax today to bring all the shine back. Scrubbed all the vinyl and the entire boat felt the rath of my foam cannon!! Finally shut the show down when the amp was telling me the battery was drained.

 

[veedubtek]

I <3 my foam cannon.

 

[John Greenlund]

When reassembling, how much torque do I use when tightening the four large bolts? I sucked up a piece of wood, but I got it fixed no big deal and put everything back together. Works great. BUT, how much torque do I use? Should I also put the removable type threadlocker on the threads? I'm concerned they could wiggle lose over time otherwise. Thanks for the advice!!!

 

[biffdotorg]

As per the service manual. Blue Loctite would make sense.

 

[swatski]

@John Greenlund No locktite. I've never used a torque wrench on those, but the torque posted by @biffdotorg makes sense. It is possible to strip those bolts, and they do not wiggle out easily.

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[MidnightRider]

I don't have the service manual in front of me but seems I recall actually using thread SEALANT on those bolts per service manual suggestion. Assuming it is for anti-seize/corrosion reasons.

 

[swatski]

I don't have the service manual in front of me but seems I recall actually using thread SEALANT on those bolts per service manual suggestion. Assuming it is for anti-seize/corrosion reasons.

I believe you are correct, Yamaha manuals are a bit confusing and some of the stuff people assume is locktite is actually anti-seize. Like for the impeller... lol.

That said, I have taken my pumps apart many times, never had a issue with just a good'ol tightening those venturi and wear ring nozzles bolts, no torque wrench. There is one small bolt in the wear ring - that one is easy to strip.

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[MidnightRider]

Yamaha manuals are a bit confusing and some of the stuff people assume is locktite is actually anti-seize.

Yeah agreed, it says "loctite" all the time meaning the "brand". You have to look up the type #s that it indicated in the service manual for loctite, which is how I discovered it is actually Loctite 'sealant' on some bolts not Loctite thread locker. Up til then I assumed loctite only made thread locker.

Edit: looked it up, Loctite 572 (thread sealant) is what those bolts call for. Pretty much any thread sealant will do though, not sealing anything just for anti-sieze I'm sure. Not really sure it is that critical to put anything on them either as @swatski mentioned - just wouldn't use locker.

 

[Beachbummer]

I have an opposing view after a bolt loosened and fell into the carb body, then locked up an engine.

Sealant and Blue are not the same, the blue thread locker will release with hand tools, and will keep the bolts and nuts from backing out, and with luck will protect them from the elements compared to no thread locker. It can't hurt anything, worst case it helps. If you have it handy, my suggestion is lather it on. (especially if when the bolt backs out, it locks up the engine)

 

[MidnightRider]

I have an opposing view after a bolt loosened and fell into the carb body, then locked up an engine.

Sealant and Blue are not the same, the blue thread locker will release with hand tools, and will keep the bolts and nuts from backing out, and with luck will protect them from the elements compared to no thread locker. It can't hurt anything, worst case it helps. If you have it handy, my suggestion is lather it on. (especially if when the bolt backs out, it locks up the engine)

I think you misunderstand, there are definitely bolts that need thread locker, some red locker and some blue locker depending on application. The only thing I was trying to point out is that just because it says to use Loctite in the service manual doesn't mean its thread locker. Some of the bolts are spec'd to use Loctite 572 which is actually a thread 'sealant' (ie. the 4 pump bolts). But bolts that are spec'd (or in need of according to your judgement/experience) for thread locker should definitely use thread locker.

Edit: having said all that, if you wanted to argue that blue thread locker could be used instead of the spec'd thread sealant, I wouldn't argue against that - the point in sealant cases is to just get something in the threads so they don't seize up over time - an argument could be made that blue locker can do that as well. Of course red thread locker is a whole other thing though.

 

[Beachbummer]

I totally agree and should have prefaced with... You are right that one should always use the specified loctite, but in a pinch......

Thanks for giving me the benefit of the doubt.

 

[swatski]

Chances are a nozzle will be pulled a couple of times during ownership. I have done that at a ramp once or twice. Those are very robust bolts, no need to put anything on them, IMO. If anything I would use antiseize on those. Never heard of one pull out.

There are flyboarding guys swapping those pump nozzles twice a day. They don't use anything.

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[John Greenlund]

Thanks for the thoughts on Threadlocker. Since they stay put, I'll go with anti seize. How many ft lbs of torque do I use when tightening them down? When I pulled them, they were super tight. Thanks!