Newbie saying hello

[RockShawn]

Just getting a feel for the forum. I have been a lurker for a while, but finally bought a jetboat so I figured I might as well join up.

I have been working to get all the additions I wanted on my new to me 22 FSH 195. Seller already had a Garmin 93 in the helm and a Force pro TM mounted and Lithium batteries for the Force.

I am transferring over Electronics from an older Tracker; Livescope, Garmin 12”, second Garmin 9” and adding a GMS10 network, Live Foot TM livescope pole and exchanging the house battery to a new Lithium to help with all the electronics (was hoping to not have to add a battery, but I’m setting up for that option as well) Mounting the 12” Garmin at the bow on a Balzout single mount. Oh and I also repaired the GT56 tranducer cable that got chewed on before I bought the boat. I’ll post about that too but after a few runs to make sure it’s watertight.

It has been one hell of a project but I can’t wait to share the final results. It has been really hard to just decide how I wanted to run everything.

So coming soon, my FSH mega fisher.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Welcome !

Sounds like a really cool boat you’ve got there! Lots of fishy electronics!

I’m not sure if you are aware of how the DVSR works.. the point at which the DVSR closes and parallels // the start and house battery is 13.2 volts, the DVSR will open at 12.7 volts breaking parallel // between the start and house batteries.

The nominal voltage of a LFP / LiFePo4 battery is 13.6 and will cause the DVSR to close and // the start and house battery, assuming the start battery is a lead acid type AND if the engine is off the LFP battery will begin to discharge into the lead acid battery due to its lower nominal voltage, this will continue until the voltage reaches 12.7 at which point the LFP battery is discharged.

There are a couple of ways around this, both require modifying the DVSR using the built in options of cutting the small red wire on the back of the DVSR to either use storage mode or ignition hot mode. The storage mode will use a manually operated switch on the dash to power up the DVSR, which is how I have mine set up, or tapping onto the fuel pump hot so that the DVSR energizes when the fuel pump is running which is only when the engine is running. There are a few threads on this here that you can find using this sites search engine, if you need help let us know and we can guide you. @WiskyDan did a fine job with the fuel pump hot set up and his has been working great for the past couple of seasons.

 

[RockShawn]

Thank you for that info. Yes both aft batteries are lead acid and I was under the assumption that the house and start only went to parallel when the yellow cutoff was manually opened. I didn't realize that was automatic. I left enough wire connecting my Blue Sea bus that i can just add the LiFo battery for the electronics so that may be the simpler solution.

Since i got the boat used, i was just unsure of the house battery condition. It was the last to charge up with the 5amp noco the previous owner has on it. I have a 10x3 noco i pulled off the tracker so maybe I just get a 3rd battery box for the lithium i ordered and use my 10x3 to charge the aft batteries. That way all the electronics are on a more solid and separate source.

I will look for the other solutions tho. I’m really excited to get everything finished up and get to the lake. I’m still waiting on my title and paperwork from the broker. Wish i had found one I likes at a dealer or paid off individual, but it is what it is.

Glad to be a part of the site and hope i can contribute and not just ask questions all the time.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The Yellow switch handle is an Emergency Parallel switch in case the start battery needs a boost from the house battery.

The BEP battery switch is an elegant solution to start / house battery isolation and automatic charging, I’ve never read about even one person having one fail. The other thing to know about them is that when either battery sees that 13.2 volts the DVSR will close. There is a little red light on the face of the DVSR module that lights up when the switch is closed and the start and house are //.

The charging systems on these engines are limited, about 200 watts / 14 amps @ 3500 rpm and above, roughly half that at idle. Having said that, having your house battery be able to be charged when the engine is running is a good thing. It’s quite simple to do the DVSR mod.

As far as how clean the battery supply voltage is whether or not the engine is running, I’ve never seen any interference on my MFD when the engine is running… Depending on the size of LFP battery you got, you may only need the one battery to run your electronics for a day on the water, that depends on how long you stay out and whether or not your engine is running and if its putting a charge on the house battery.

I’ve done a fair amount of research and writing here about our charging systems and LFP batteries, is short, our charging systems are a good marriage with the LFP batteries and will not suffer the issues that can be had with an automotive style alternator as our charging systems are always at full output with excess voltage and current shunted to ground.

The 10x3 charger sounds good, LFP batteries need a minimum of 10A to charge properly, and so do the lead acid batteries in the group 24 size. If you’re using a flooded lead acid for your start battery just be sure and check the gravity occasionally and run an equalizing charge if the cells are either unbalanced or have low gravity overall. Another thing you may not be aware of yet is that our boats can list with uneven weight distribution that will also lead to them pulling to the opposite side of the unbalance weight, too much weight starboard, the boat will pull to port. So, the LFP batteries are good for not only keeping the weight down but also make balancing the weight easier.

As far as contributing.. in time you will learn just like I did and will be able to help out other members along the way. I would just say that if you do have an issue be sure and close the loop once you have solved the problem to let the members who helped you know what worked or didn’t work, and, in the future someone else may be looking to solve a similar problem and will find your thread using the sites search engine and they can so your problem solving process and how that worked for you.

 

[RockShawn]

Thank you for all the info. He had 2 noco 5x2 with separate plug ins. I installed the Noco splitter plug-in so I only have to use one extension cord.

I think for now I’ll set up my 10x3 for the 3 LiFo (2 G31’s at trolling motor and the G24 I ordered for the electronics) and just leave the start and house as is. And eventually upgrade the existing 5x2 to a 10amp. (Money is just flying out of my pocket on this project already)

Weight distribution is gonna be an issue already with the Garmin Force pro on the port side. Previous owner said he always filled the starboard livewell to help balance it. That’s something i’ll need to play with over time i guess. Was considering putting a sand bag (15-20lb) in the starboard storage hatch but i want all the actual storage i can get.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thank you for all the info. He had 2 noco 5x2 with separate plug ins. I installed the Noco splitter plug-in so I only have to use one extension cord.

I think for now I’ll set up my 10x3 for the 3 LiFo (2 G31’s at trolling motor and the G24 I ordered for the electronics) and just leave the start and house as is. And eventually upgrade the existing 5x2 to a 10amp. (Money is just flying out of my pocket on this project already)

Weight distribution is gonna be an issue already with the Garmin Force pro on the port side. Previous owner said he always filled the starboard livewell to help balance it. That’s something i’ll need to play with over time i guess. Was considering putting a sand bag (15-20lb) in the starboard storage hatch but i want all the actual storage i can get.

The boat is designed to float legal with the live well full