Jet Nozzle Corrosion

[Robert Sands]

Hi everyone,

I keep my boat moored most of the season and have never dealt with the buildup on the metal components of the jet nozzle and bucket. I'll post a few pics here.

Just wondering if there is a chemical soak for this and pressure wash off, or remove the unit and soda blast or something? Thoughts, thanks.

 

[wango tango]

I had the Same thing last season, I run my boat in fresh water and BRP puts zinc corrosion anodes on that do not work well for most fresh water. Under warranty I requested magnesium and were put on by dealer. Your aluminum jet is corroded before the corrosion anodes.
Usually sand/sandblast and repaint.

 

[wango tango]

Also I was lucky enough that they replaced some jet parts so I didn't repaint.

 

[Robert Sands]

Gotcha. So pull the unit, sand blast, repaint, magnesium anodes. Thanks.

 

[BobJohnson]

I have same issue. Have to find magnesium anodes that fit. If anyone finds any please advise

 

[Robert Sands]

Is it one of these?

https://www.sea-doo.com/content/sea...tenance/parts/anodes/sacrificial-anodes0.html
https://www.sea-doo.com/content/sea...ntenance/parts/anodes/sacrificial-anodes.html

 

[wango tango]

Contact BRP, or scarab warranty they will help you with replacements.
I have a friend that ordered magnesium rod on Amazon and made his own

 

[wango tango]

GET SCARAB AND BRP TO GET FRESH WATER ANODES, ENGINES HAVE 3 TO 5 year WARRANTY ON THEM. THEY NEED CORRECT FRESH WATER CORROSION PROTECTION.!!!!

 

[Robert Sands]

Will do.

Another question. After the sandblast, do you think it would be ok to powder coat these parts instead of painting them? My only inference being that powder coating is a tougher option?

 

[Robert Sands]

Will do.

Another question. After the sandblast, do you think it would be ok to powder coat these parts instead of painting them? My only inference being that powder coating is a tougher option?

I'm going to reply to my own post after a bit of research. A day ago I didn't know what a sacrificial anode even was. Basically, as long as the anode is working properly you shouldn't need to paint or powder coat. But if you do, apparently you have to leave sections where the anode would go unpainted so the anode would site up against the steel without paint or anything between it and the part it's protecting. Then change them out once they reduce past 50% of their size. If you slip your boat like me and there are ungrounded boats nearby on shore power, that could speed up how fast the anode deteriorates. Feel free to chime in if I'm incorrect.

On the 195 there should be anodes on the following parts:

Ride Shoe/Cooling Plate
Pump Housing
Reverse Gate Support
Steering Nozzle
Reverse Gate

I will do a better job trying to find these on my boat, but I see two right of the bat. They appear to the same size and type. I'm just wondering if anyone knows if all the anodes on the boats are the same size and shape, or do we buy kits?

 

[BobJohnson]

Is it one of these?

https://www.sea-doo.com/content/sea...tenance/parts/anodes/sacrificial-anodes0.html
https://www.sea-doo.com/content/sea...ntenance/parts/anodes/sacrificial-anodes.html

unless i am missing it, the site doesn't say what material these are made from.. zinc, magnesium, aluminum....

 

[Robert Sands]

No it doesn't, I'm going to have to take it to the dealer and get them to service everything and ensure magnesium ones are installed. I feel like zinc is the standard and then it's up to us to know the difference and get the right ones installed.

 

[wango tango]

Yes that is true

 

[wango tango]

BRP rotax part number #0461805-00 is the replacement for fresh water anodes

 

[BobJohnson]

BRP rotax part number #0461805-00 is the replacement for fresh water anodes

According to this supplier that # BRP rotax part number #0461805-00 is zinc. http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/CODVVAI0.cfm

Looking for magnesium

 

[wango tango]

That is what they gave me!
I did not put on my drive, I bought magnesium rod on Amazon and made my own(they work great!!!)I do know for a fact that they are not zinc(they are half the weight), what exactly they are made of I don't know but I wanted pure magnesium so I made them. They told me that they are for fresh water and that's all they said.
Let me confirm I gave you the right number?

 

[BobJohnson]

That is what they gave me!
I did not put on my drive, I bought magnesium rod on Amazon and made my own(they work great!!!)I do know for a fact that they are not zinc(they are half the weight), what exactly they are made of I don't know but I wanted pure magnesium so I made them. They told me that they are for fresh water and that's all they said.
Let me confirm I gave you the right number?

think making own is way to go. I am not a big metal worker, but think cutting and drilling magnesium shouldn't be that difficult.

@wango tango did you buy this, or something else from amazon? This one is 1" dia, so that matches the size of the current anodes.

https://www.amazon.com/Ariston-Anod...qid=1531152978&sr=8-20&keywords=magnesium+rod

 

[wango tango]

No it's not, checked my orders and the one I got is no longer available. There is a set of 5 pics. .70"×4" for around $20

 

[Rik Mitchell]

I have a new 195 purchased end of July and had it in a fresh water slip until 5th of October. I couldn't believe the corrosion on bucket, bracket and ride plate. The zinc anodes lost less than 5% so I purchased a 1" x 12" magnesium anode bar stock on line from roto metals $12.60 delivered. I'll cut my own. Nice to have a lathe! I would like to remove the ride plate and coat with Cerakote (ceramic gun finish) Can anyone tell me if the plate can be removed easily?

 

[wango tango]

Don't put a finish on ride plate it a heat sink.