Just bought the Polk PA D5000.5

[Kevin M]

I've been reading all the different audio topics and am a little confused. If i could ask a few questions from the pro's or experienced folks.

1. I bought the amp and from the forums, have a good handle on the physical install of the unit.
2. I also purchased 4 awg red power wire for the battery. Should I wire a "in-line" fuse and if so, what type or amp?
3. I plan on using the factory Polks. I was going to use the amp for the front bow speakers and the cockpit speakers then have the HU power the swim platform speakers and completely disconnect the tower tweeters.
4. I will do a sub later.
5. I'm hoping this isn't to complicated.

Thank you

 

[OperationROL]

I've been reading all the different audio topics and am a little confused. If i could ask a few questions from the pro's or experienced folks.

1. I bought the amp and from the forums, have a good handle on the physical install of the unit.
2. I also purchased 4 awg red power wire for the battery. Should I wire a "in-line" fuse and if so, what type or amp?
3. I plan on using the factory Polks. I was going to use the amp for the front bow speakers and the cockpit speakers then have the HU power the swim platform speakers and completely disconnect the tower tweeters.
4. I will do a sub later.
5. I'm hoping this isn't to complicated.

Thank you

1. Cool.
2. Yes, you should install a fuse or breaker about 1 ft from the battery as I did in the following pic. The type of fuse doesn't matter much. I needed a 150 amp fuse so used an ANL fuse and holder that I purchased on Ebay for 10 bucks. You will need to add up your total amp draw on that run and get a fuse just large enough to accomadate the total. The amp you have has 2 40 Amp fuses in it and if I remember correctly the literature says the max draw is 60 Amps. Your fuse should be 60 or so. I have 2 Amps on that run that total 130 Amps so I went with the next closest size at 150 A.:


3. Sounds like a plan.
4. Cool
5. Shouldn't be too complicated. Reach out is you need any help!

 

[Kevin M]

@OperationROL , Thank you for your help!

 

[David Decker]

I just added the same Polk amp and used a 60A fuse. In my case, the amp drives the stock Polk bow and cabin speakers and also a Polk dual voice coil sub. No issues so far - I agree that 60A should work fine.

This is the install kit I used http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_98685_TruConnex-TC4KIT-42B-by-Metra.html

 

[Kevin M]

I just added the same Polk amp and used a 60A fuse. In my case, the amp drives the stock Polk bow and cabin speakers and also a Polk dual voice coil sub. No issues so far - I agree that 60A should work fine.

This is the install kit I used http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_98685_TruConnex-TC4KIT-42B-by-Metra.html

Great, thank you!

 

[Kevin M]

As far as speaker wire, does it matter what type? I'm planning on running my own to the swim deck speakers right from the head unit.

 

[OperationROL]

As far as speaker wire, does it matter what type? I'm planning on running my own to the swim deck speakers right from the head unit.

I used 14 gauge, but that is probably overkill. You could use 16 gauge. I did not get any special "marine grade". I just bought a spool from Home Depot.

 

[Kevin M]

Install started today. Ran new speaker wires to all the speakers and ran the power cable to the helm. Tomorrow, I will mount and wire the amp and test it out!

 

[Kevin M]

It's Done! Damn, what a freaking project that was. At 51 years old, It's tough on a body squeezing in/out of the helm over and over again. Good news is, it sounds pretty damn good. [/ATTACH]

 

[jcyamaharider]

One slight suggestion......your ground should be as big as or just a little smaller then your power wire.

I run 1/0 power and ground cable.

Install looks great!!!!

 

[Kevin M]

One slight suggestion......your ground should be as big as or just a little smaller then your power wire.

I run 1/0 power and ground cable.

Install looks great!!!!

Thank you. Not being an audio guy, why does the ground wire need to be large? What will happen with a small ground?

 

[Bill D]

Both the positive and negative cables carry the same amount of current (amps). Too small of ground wire will get hot and be a fire hazard.

 

[SCSTWG]

I don't do a lot of audio work, but I do deal with power for my day job (Telecom industry) and the general rule is that the ground cable is no smaller that the feed cable.

 

[Kevin M]

Ok, that makes sense. I'll have to change that out then. Thank you

 

[maboat]

Ok, that makes sense. I'll have to change that out then. Thank you

And make sure you change that ground wire all the way back to the battery. Car audio uses the metal frame of the car for ground so car audio ground wires are usually short. But marine audio needs a ground all the way back to the battery and it needs to be the same size (or larger) than the power feed wire.

 

[David Analog]

Thank you. Not being an audio guy, why does the ground wire need to be large? What will happen with a small ground?

Think of the ground and B+ as all part of completing the same circuit. And you can't make any power without a complete circuit. It really doesn't matter where in the circuit you have higher resistance, that weak link will in turn impede/choke/reduce the supply.
More current X more resistance = more heat = wasted power = less voltage.
Less supply voltage to your amplifier = less output power from your amplifier.

Kind of like 50 feet of 1-inch garden hose linked to 50 feet of 1/2-inch garden hose. Doesn't matter how much potential water pressure the city reservoir can supply, your final water pressure is restricted by the smaller 1/2-inch hose. It won't matter if the water flows at just a trickle. But as the flow-thru increases the negative impact of the limited hose diameter on the water pressure also increases. As the distance increases, to maintain the same water pressure, the hose diameter must also increase.
Now if you don't pay your water bill....never mind.

 

[Kevin M]

Think of the ground and B+ as all part of completing the same circuit. And you can't make any power without a complete circuit. It really doesn't matter where in the circuit you have higher resistance, that weak link will in turn impede/choke/reduce the supply.
More current X more resistance = more heat = wasted power = less voltage.
Less supply voltage to your amplifier = less output power from your amplifier.

Kind of like 50 feet of 1-inch garden hose linked to 50 feet of 1/2-inch garden hose. Doesn't matter how much potential water pressure the city reservoir can supply, your final water pressure is restricted by the smaller 1/2-inch hose. It won't matter if the water flows at just a trickle. But as the flow-thru increases the negative impact of the limited hose diameter on the water pressure also increases. As the distance increases, to maintain the same water pressure, the hose diameter must also increase.
Now if you don't pay your water bill....never mind.

Makes perfect sense! Thank you for your expert advice.

 

[Kevin M]

Update: Finally got to test the new amp this past week. A BIG difference in the audio for sure. The factory speakers sound pretty good and after spending some time tuning it, I am very pleased. Also, based on the good advice from this forum, I changed out the ground wire to the 4 awg. Now my question is...Should I add a sub or should I upgrade the speakers to the JL speakers. I've heard great things about those JL speakers.....