Lectrotab wire awg?

[HughSethner]

First, with watching a 4 year old I am surprised after 3 days you even have the things out of the package...

Second, there are no fuses in that block. Those are all resistors. So I think you are looking in the wrong spot.

Might want to invest in a set of t-taps. Not familiar with where exactly you will tap for the 2017 242, but someone here will. That will probably give you a much better result than trying to fool with putting a fuse in the resistor block...

Thanks for the reply! That was all I could find. Where are the fuses then? ?

 

[tdonoughue]

Not sure on the '17, but mine are on the back wall of the engine compartment. Next to the ECU, there is a round cover. That twists off to show 2 columns of fuses--one is the real, in-use set and the other column are the spares.

That said, there is probably a more convenient place from which to run your power. Like from the helm area (you can tap into lots of things there, usually) or the back deck area (tapping into the radio, which I think is back there on yours).

 

[Troch1]

Hi All!
I must not as fast as you guys are. I’m on day 3 of my install. (Mine is complicated by watching a 4 yr old while trying to install this.) So I have a 2017 242 X, and I am looking for where to pull the main and switched power. I need some suggestions. I was going to try to pull power from the resistor/fusebox. But I don’t really know how that works. I have space in the the block, but would prefer a proven solution Vs reinventing the wheel. Please see my pictures below. Thanks in advance for the advice.View attachment 121438

Go all the way back to the battery itself, or the battery switch for the house battery. In my case, I added distribution blocks (both + and - ) off the house battery and ran the 14awg tinned copper wiring through the engine bay, through the starboard underseat storage and under the throttles to the helm where I installed my SLC control. I pulled the switched power from directly behind the key (yellow with black stripe wire where I used a posi-tap). WAY easier than I was anticipating overall. BTW, the addition of these lectrotabs in my wife's words is TRANSFORMATIVE. It literally is like piloting a different boat. We boat in the Chesapeake bay that is nearly always riddled with unruly short period chop and these tabs have made boating so much more enjoyable. I can't even describe it well enough to make it believable!

 

[HughSethner]

Go all the way back to the battery itself, or the battery switch for the house battery. In my case, I added distribution blocks (both + and - ) off the house battery and ran the 14awg tinned copper wiring through the engine bay, through the starboard underseat storage and under the throttles to the helm where I installed my SLC control. I pulled the switched power from directly behind the key (yellow with black stripe wire where I used a posi-tap). WAY easier than I was anticipating overall. BTW, the addition of these lectrotabs in my wife's words is TRANSFORMATIVE. It literally is like piloting a different boat. We boat in the Chesapeake bay that is nearly always riddled with unruly short period chop and these tabs have made boating so much more enjoyable. I can't even describe it well enough to make it believable!

Hi Troch1,
Thanks for that. I did end up running power from the start battery. (I will probably change it to go from the battery switch.) But I haven’t pulled the switched power yet. (Thanks for the tip on that!) Does the switched power shut the system off? Or does it remain powered? Any significant power draw if on overnight anchored?)
Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Troch1]

Hi Troch1,
Thanks for that. I did end up running power from the start battery. (I will probably change it to go from the battery switch.) But I haven’t pulled the switched power yet. (Thanks for the tip on that!) Does the switched power shut the system off? Or does it remain powered? Any significant power draw if on overnight anchored?)
Thanks for all the help guys!

At least for the MLC (sorry, I said SLC above) that I have, the switched lead is just to fully retract the pistons/tabs when ignition is off. The tabs themselves have power to them at all times if you run the main power leads all the way to the battery or a distribution block as I did. The only parasitic draw I see is the LED illumination of the controller if house battery switch is in the on position - haven't measured it, but doubt it's much.