Lectrotab wire awg?

[Weeb]

The controller for the tabs calls for 12 awg wire, can I run that size all the way to the battery for the + and -? If I run a larger wire will it fit into the controller?

 

[tdonoughue]

None of the kits I have seen have a transformer, so that means that the system is running on 12v. If they spec 12 awg to the controller from the tabs, that should be good for the run to the batteries--the major draw for the system will be the actuators, not the controller.

Don't have mine in the mail yet, so don't know about the larger wire question...

 

[Weeb]

From the wiring diagram on line it shows the actuators getting power from the controller that’s why I was wondering if it was too long of a run for the power wire up to the helm and then drawing back to the actuators

 

[tdonoughue]

I see your point.

But assuming this is a 10A circuit (which it is probably not that much), 12 awg should be good for a 50 foot run. So I still think you are good.

 

[rkim808]

So the kit doesn’t come with all the necessary wires, we need to get our own?

 

[zipper]

@tdonoughue @Weeb It depends if it deemed as "critical" I used this chart and fed with a 12 awg wire, because I had it, and fused at 20a. Fed from a Blue Sea fuse panel less than 10 feet away. Still good to 30'.







@rkim808 all wiring/tubing between actuators and controller is in the kit. You just need to run power to the controller.

 

[svana]

I believe it calls for 14ga according to the manual, so 12ga would be safer. Also these controllers don’t seem to be voltage critical, so assuming you’re pulling less than 20’ you’re fine for 14ga as well.

 

[Weeb]

Thanks guys idk why I was thinking it said 12 awg. Thanks for the chart. I have the ALC controller so I didn’t know if it need to be under the critical chart were as it adjust constantly.

 

[tdonoughue]

(and, @zipper , that is the same chart I use....) I assumed non-critical because the actuators and controller should not be that sensitive to a voltage drop, given their characteristics. If you had the ALC maybe it would be critical, but still I think very, very likely not.

 

[BigAbe75]

edit: Crap I just tagged ridesteady and didn’t mean to. Lol

 

[BigAbe75]

edit: Crap I just tagged ridesteady and didn’t mean to. Lol

We’re getting to have enough customers, we may need to get some Lectrotab representation here to assist with the occasional questions.

When I emailed the other day, Russ was super quick to respond. I’m sure he’d help out with install questions.

 

[Weeb]

There’s a lot of you smart guys hanging around here with all that is going on. So I figured instead of bothering them one of you would know and I was not wrong lol.

 

[tdonoughue]

And, hey, if we don't know, we will make it up... lol!

 

[Weeb]

So the kit doesn’t come with all the necessary wires, we need to get our own?

You need a power and ground supply wire to the controller.

 

[marcham]

Don't forget that the DC circuit length is double the wire length. A 15ft length of red and black wire length passing dc current is a 30ft circuit.

Home wiring being AC is different, only the length of the run is considered, not the return path.

 

[Weeb]

Don't forget that the DC circuit length is double the wire length. A 15ft length of red and black wire length passing dc current is a 30ft circuit.

Home wiring being AC is different, only the length of the run is considered, not the return path.

I had read this also. I already ordered 12 awg. Eventually I want to make a board for an amp under the helm and will run 0 gauge. My wife has been out of work so I’m trying to do this as cheap as possible for now. I’m having second thoughts about the 12 awg now.

 

[tdonoughue]

Very good point. I had missed the 'round trip'. The original chart is at Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems, along with that exact note (and other usage notes).

 

[tdonoughue]

So, following this, I went to the real calculator referenced on the link above. When I put in 60 ft run, 5 amps (which is likely more what the draw is, I'm guessing), variable, 5% drop, 1 min duration (I figure the tabs won't take that long to move), and fused, I got... 12 awg. A very long way to get to the same place, I guess.

 

[HughSethner]

Hi All!
I must not as fast as you guys are. I’m on day 3 of my install. (Mine is complicated by watching a 4 yr old while trying to install this.) So I have a 2017 242 X, and I am looking for where to pull the main and switched power. I need some suggestions. I was going to try to pull power from the resistor/fusebox. But I don’t really know how that works. I have space in the the block, but would prefer a proven solution Vs reinventing the wheel. Please see my pictures below. Thanks in advance for the advice.

 

[tdonoughue]

First, with watching a 4 year old I am surprised after 3 days you even have the things out of the package...

Second, there are no fuses in that block. Those are all resistors. So I think you are looking in the wrong spot.

Might want to invest in a set of t-taps. Not familiar with where exactly you will tap for the 2017 242, but someone here will. That will probably give you a much better result than trying to fool with putting a fuse in the resistor block...