Locating a Blocked Cooling Passage

[IN2H2O]

Welp guys I think I really f'd up. I went to check compression and getting 200 psi in each and then cylinder 3 pumps 250psi. Pull the plug out and it has beads of water on it. I put the other 3 plugs in and idled the motor to try and push as much water out as possible. After about 20 seconds no more water seemed to be coming back out. Are checked compression and it's 200. I unclamped the vice grip at the y fitting. I put the #3 plug back in and now I'm idealing on the hose trying to drive moisture out. Not sure what else I should do?

I think this happened when I was running on the hose with the Y fitting clamped and I built up to much pressure and must have back fed into the exhaust and eventually motor

 

[buckbuck]

I don't think so. The exhaust pressure from the engine running would not allow the water to back up through the manifold. Sounds more like what others have experienced with corroded exhaust or a head gasket. We are cheering for you to press on.

 

[Scottintexas]

Min pressure is 157
Doesn't 200 sound high??

I agree with buck that water scenario doesn't seem plausible



.

 

[WREKS]

@IN2H2O What is the water pressure? If there are clogged cylinder water jackets, and the inlet is blocked off, the water has to go somewhere. At the head gasket there is barely a ¼" clearance between the water jackets and the cylinders.

 

[WREKS]

@Scottintexas I believe around 190 is what i have gotten for compression.

 

[IN2H2O]

Not sure how to measure water pressure from the garden hose but it's what I'd consider 'normal'. I did check oil and it's milky

 

[WREKS]

A few changes will get you back.

 

[IN2H2O]

When doing these changes will the oil come back yellow or is a light brown ok? Wasn't sure if internal soot keeps it dark? For all changes I ran the motor without water for about a minute to warm up and cycle the oil around. I didn't want to run on the hose because i didn't want to introduce any more water if in fact I'm getting water intrusion from the cooling circuit. I was not able to get to the rear drrain plug but I did take a shop vac in blower mode and pushed out a few extra ounces from the sump to the filter with the filter removed.

This is where I'm at so far.

Original Oil Color


Color after 1 change and new filter. Color looks about the same.



Color after 3rd change is looking significantly better. Via dip stick I cant tell there is any water. Oil is defiantly thinner


4th change its starting to yellow, not sure how much more do I keep going? Oil seems just as thin as the last change


I'm debating now trying to run it on the hose and see if the milkyness returns? I'm assuming 15minutes on hose at no wake RPM? For my first oil MR-1 oil change I already feel like a pro. Also how does anyone get the the rear drain plug? It seems impossible without pulling the motor.

 

[Scottintexas]

two things,
you have two threads going on the same problem, I'd suggest from here forward only updating one of them so members aren't overlapping with their suggestions/comments,

I would not run the cooling hose,

It's not like we don't know how the water got in the engine,
you weren't towed above no-wake speed
you didn't run the hose with the engine off

If there was some reason to think water got into the engine some other way than an internal problem I would definitely say run it on the hose just to stop you from having to take big pieces off the engine,



.

 

[IN2H2O]

two things,
you have two threads going on the same problem, I'd suggest from here forward only updating one of them so members aren't overlapping with their suggestions/comments,

I would not run the cooling hose,

It's not like we don't know how the water got in the engine,
you weren't towed above no-wake speed
you didn't run the hose with the engine off

If there was some reason to think water got into the engine some other way than an internal problem I would definitely say run it on the hose just to stop you from having to take big pieces off the engine,

The other thread was just to see if there was any immediate actions needed for a water in engine situation. I know in 2-strokes if you let it sit overnight the crank will be locked up and I didn't want to go though that saga. Since water in motor is different than blocked cooling lines I wanted it to catch the eye of anyone that might have that quick answer. But I see your point for redundant info.

If I don't run on the hose when do I stop making oil changes? I guess my next step is to randomly start pulling the motor apart to look for areas water could have got into it or is there a more productive way for finding the leak.

 

[WREKS]

Your initial posts seem to indicate that you did not have water in oil until you pinched off cooling water intake and ran on the hose. If that is so, your water in oil problem may be over.

 

[Scottintexas]

Your initial posts seem to indicate that you did not have water in oil until you pinched off cooling water intake and ran on the hose. If that is so, your water in oil problem may be over.

This is true, we need to confirm facts, I didn't read anywhere before your Y fitting post about checking the oil,

did you check the oil after your water test and before you clamped the Y fitting ?




.

 

[IN2H2O]

Good question guys. When I bought the boat I checked the dipstick cold and I did not notice anything out of the ordinary and the levels looked good. Only thing I noticed was this motor the oil looked almost new and the other was a bit darker. HOWEVER, today before I did the first oil change I checked the oil cold and even took a photo. I know there is water in the motor and the dipstick does not appear to have water on it until the motor is ran and gets the water and oil all stirred up which makes sense if oil floats on water and the dip stick is not reaching the bottom of the pan.

Here is the photo today before the first oil change with oil cold from sitting all night. Does it look like it has water?


Oil after dry running the motor off the hose for about a minute



I did not know I had water in the oil until I went to compression test and noticed #3 was sky high so I knew something was wrong. Only reason I compression tested during the middle of all this is because the 10mm adapter arrived from amazon and I wanted to baseline the motors compression for future troubleshooting should they arise. I assumed me clamping off the Y fitting was the only way possible that could have caused this to happen, I never knew water could bypass the water jackets which is a real bummer. I agree if the motor was on the exhaust gas should push out the water but what I don't know is water is flowing oddly through this motor since its not pissing when going 45mph at 10K RPM.

I'm thinking water has been in the oil since I bought the boat. When I check the dipstick cold I would not have known. Is there any way to confirm how long water has been in the oil? Should I have rust or wear somewhere if water has been in there for a long time? I believe the boat has been sitting for several months to a year as the boat has been in the shop getting all new interior and when I asked about the broken radio he mentioned it was working last year when he had it out. Could perhaps this much water get in from sitting for a long time? Still does not explain why it's oddly not pissing like the other motor. Thanks for all the assistance guys. This one has me stumped. I'm a 2 stroke guy, only minor experience with the 4 strokes and with this being my first MR-1. I'm learning a lot quickly thanks to this form and in particular your guys help.

 

[Babin Farms]

Complete oil change. I recommend having an electric pump to prevent a large mess

https://jetboaters.net/posts/64621/

 

[IN2H2O]

Changed the oil 4 times as indicated above. I have an electric pump and it seems to be aerating the oil alot as it pumps the oil out. I decided to put the oil from each change into a glass to see if water will separate or is it mostly air making it look milky now. Trying to figure out why the oil is still turning milky and not staying yellow

 

[IN2H2O]

This is what the oil looks like from sitting over night



Left is the original oil and first change mixed. I'm pretty sure the blackness is from using a older jug from a previous truck oil change.
Middle is the 3 and 4th change without running on the hose.
Right is the 5th change after running on the hose for about 10minutes but the Y-fitting unclamped.

I'm debating if the oil is super aeriated from the pump giving it its milky appearance. I'm not yet seeing water settle to the bottom on any of them. Anyone know about how long this takes? Should I keep going with the changes?

 

[Babin Farms]

Are you doing full oil changes or just sucking out the top 2.5 qts? Ideally you want to drain all of the oil that you can. Maybe put some seafoam in the oil to help remove contaminated oil. Also while doing this flushing, use cheap oil and cheap filters until your problem is solved. No use in spending a lot of $$ if you don't have to.

Don't give up, you got this

 

[IN2H2O]

I'll try one more time to get to that bottom plug but I just cant get back there. These have only been 2.5qt pulls from the top. How much more does the bottom plug pull?

 

[WREKS]

About 1.5 qt. Drain plug at bottom of oil pump is 12mm. Do as zipper suggested with bottom of plastic jug,

 

[Babin Farms]

The starboard side is by far harder to do than the port but it can be done. Have a mirror and light to help you and look at the diagram in the link above to verify the correct plug