Locating a Blocked Cooling Passage

[buckbuck]

Bolts # 35 and 36 are why you will have to pull the engine completely out of the boat.
I don't believe that bad gasket is the cause of the problem. I think you will have to split the header to find the root cause. That is my feeling but others more qualified may disagree.

 

[WREKS]

However, gasket 16 should prevent exhaust gases that get past 17 from getting into the cooling water jackets. I am deleting the previous post, because even if 17 is defective 16 the inner exhaust joint should prevent water from mixing with the exhaust gases.

 

[IN2H2O]

I think I just confirmed mani issue? I attached the shopvac to the 4 cooling hoses just above the header in the photo below.


I then blocked off the waterjackets with some high strength tape and took a lighter to the exhaust holes and I'm getting the flame pulled in on the 2 holes that have red arrows but not the other 2. I do find it alittle odd to have suction in 2 of the exhaust cavities. Does piston cycle location matter at all here?



I'm not exactly sure where the pistons are in relation to the intake or exhaust ports opening but piston #3 appears at top and I'm also getting a vacuum there as well.




Anyone agree 100% an issue here?

Is it even possible to get to the #28, 29, 30, 31 bolts below without removing #35 or #36. I can get a wrench on #38 and it is not budging even with a cheater bar

 

[WREKS]

Manifold 2 or cylinder head.

 

[IN2H2O]

Manifold 2 or cylinder head.

no idea what this statement means

 

[WREKS]

Problem is in Manifold 2 or Cylinder Head.

 

[WREKS]

If you decide to remove the engine, check the coupler clearance to determine ahead of time whether additional shims will be needed when reinstalling.
Also, when removing the cylinder head, do not turn it upside down and drop out the lifters and pads. Each pad thickness is unique to each valve.

 

[IN2H2O]

Glad we kept digging. For anyone following in the future its not even possible to pull the headers without lifting the motor. The pipe stay has to be removed and it cant be removed unless the generator cover which is part of the motor mount/bed plate is removed. Also the #9 and #10 bolts are very long so they would hit the bottom of the hull as we expected.




My hoist wasn't quite tall enough to lift motor completely out but got it up to where it was easyer to work on. Confirmed not only #3 but also #2 had breakthrough. I'm still not quite sure how the water mixes with the oil here if the motor is running and the exhaust pressure keeps the water out?




Now that parts are on order is there anything else I should look at while I'm this far? I didn't know to check for coupler clearance before pulling so I'm guessing that's to late. My original issue with this motor not pissing overboard is still afoot, any common blocked passageways I should try and find? Also what potential long term damage has been done with running milky oil? With there being 2 holes I'm sure its been ran milky for a very long time.

Seller that listed this as 'runs good, everything works as it should' stopped responding to me ever since the boat was delivered. Buyer Beware

 

[Babin Farms]

Glad to see that you found the issue

 

[WREKS]

Hopefully that is it. If all the water jackets look pretty clean, I think you can stop there. You could try a leak down test now that you can rotate the crank. That could be good assurance that the cylinder head and head gasket are ok. Save the old manifolds. It is amazing what JB-Weld can do.

 

[Scottintexas]

glad you found a possible culprit,

Sorry to hear that guy lied to you, Do you know for sure Thomas Cazier is his name, is that what was on the title for the boat ??




......