Low compression 1 cylinder

[4x15mph]

Kathy, PM me your email and I can send you the service manual

 

[Kathy]

You can download the service manual here for $ 9.50 or I can call a buddy of mine who is a jet ski mechanic.

http://www.repairmanualguru.com/YamahaBoat.htm

I found the specs I needed thank you. It was online thankfully.

 

[Kathy]

Please document the process and I am almost as excited as you about the parts showing up. I can't wait to see this project in motion since I expect to do this in the future.

@Kathy, for the wires that you replaced, were they easy to take out of the CDI box? I opened my CDI box up once and saw a wire's nest which had me closing the cover real quickly! I would like to have new wires for maintenance reasons, plus they make the boat look faster

The plug wires seem scary once you open up the box and see the wire mess in there, might be easier to work with if you take the box off the rear wall. Each one has 3 bolts that can be accessed from inside the cleanout port hatch - you have to remove the tray with the kill switches to get to them. The turnaround time for the service on them was super fast.

I didn't get much of a chance to document the whole process of putting things back together as I was working with my son to tag team getting everything done in a day - it did take all day too with both of us working. We ran into some issues with bolts shearing off a couple times. Two people at the very rear of the boat while it's on the trailer (not recommended) as the boat is so light at the front it didn't take much for it to come off the ground.. comic relief moment really... I used a ladder after that to just lean into the rear while my kid was in the engine compartment.

The steering cable if anyone ever needs to replace one - WHAT A ROYAL PAIN that was.. Good thing I fit into the space in front under the storage compartment.
BTW - if you have the steering fins attached to your boat, you will need to unbolt at least the side where the spring is located. This will make things easier to access the steering cable bolts, nuts, etc..
Initially unbolt all of the components in the rear off the nozzle and the rear the of the boat. Lots of sealant around where the cable comes through the the hull. Suggest a knife to score around the nut and washer on both the inside and outside. It makes getting wrenches around the nut a whole lot easier.

You will also need to unbolt the cable from the steering controls inside that little compartment - if you can fit in there it's a lot easier than leaning into the hatch. Those cables are stiff and unruly.
If you can't fit into that compartment be sure you have a way capture any nuts, bolts, screws, tools, etc.. that might get away from you. It's a rather large space down in there and hunting down and small screw or bolt proves to be challenging. I lost 1 bolt and a spacer at least 1 time each. I got lucky both times as they were easy to grab from either the ski locker or since I was inside the compartment reach down the side.

I pulled the cable from the front once it was released in the rear - I tried to secure the new cable to the old one to fish it through but that didn't quite work out so well needless to say and it didn't make it.
Once the old cable was removed I had to figure out how to get the new one back in - fishing this cable through the boat is not simple by any means. I didn't think so anyway.
I first tried from the rear - way too difficult to get the metal rods and the cable bent around that almost 90 degree in the rear - besides having to have super long arms and laying inside the clean out port compartment to try to feed it through. I didn't want to risk ruining the new cable so abandoned that attempt pretty quick.
Back into the hatch up front I went with that long cable hanging out the front of the boat. I suggest removing speakers along that side of the boat if you have someone to help or not - its helpful if the cable gets stuck anywhere along the way to be able to reach through the speaker holes.
The cable wants to curve upwards and snag on everything along the inside of the hull so it's not as simple as pushing it through. I had to pretty much lay inside the hull with my back against the side with one arm to guide the cable and the other to feed it. It is a challenge to see unless you have a good light and good eyesight to determine if you have reached the rear of the boat.
I was able to determine I was at the back when the cable started to creep up the rear of the boat just under the vents.
You will have to do the rest from the rear - I don't have long arms so I had to lay inside the cleanout port compartment to reach the cable along the inside of the boat then guide it back into the compartment to feed through the lower rear of the hull. Do try to be careful with the rods and the seals - I found that the seals are really soft and can easily be cut or ripped. The old one had a tear and pretty much ripped off when I was trying to get the cable out. You could wrap the seals before trying to feed it through the boat just to be safe.

Once the hard part is over lightly attach at the rear to the nozzle and through the hull. Hook everything back up in the front to the steering controls. Make sure you line everything up so the nozzles are aligned before tightening everything down. Be sure to use a good sealant around the cable where it goes through the hull. I did inside and outside just to be sure.


I still have to install the Group K fuel pump/separator