Method to kill Zebra/Quagga in Waterbox??

[txav8r]

Trust me, the water lock, water box, whatever you choose to call it, is a pain to remove. The straps that secure it in the rack are simple enough, but you have to release the rubber boot from the exhaust section, through the back engine wall bulkhead, and then release and remove the other end of that boot on the end of the water lock...but that is only half. Now you have to release and remove the rubber boot that connects the water lock to the transom thru hull opening. All of that is after you remove the 26 +/- screws that secure the clean out tray, then release the hose clamps that hold and secure the clean out tubes to the bottom of the tray, and be careful of the clean out switch connections to the tray, which may or may not have to be removed, depending on model. All this just to get to the water box. Once all is loose, you can lift it out and shake it out if so desired to dry. If you remove it, I would just treat it and drain it.

We have two issues here as I see it. Meeting the requirements of the law is more difficult than actually making sure you don't transport the larvae. I will look into how hard it is to snake a hose through the exhaust exit and into the water lock. I suspect this can be done pretty easy for the boats without the resonators. For those, it may take an additional step or two. But the easiest way to do it may be to just rig up a hose attachment like the guys that want to mix in anti-freeze have done.

This isn't the big issue it may seem. Our boats get very limited exposure if you are a trailer boat. Boats that are left in the water...that is another story. But flushing them with a biocide could be an easy solution if those that regulate the lakes would approve it.

 

[txav8r]

And I found the link to a report that came out this past February that there is a biocide in the works showing excellent promise! Here is the article.
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/02/25/science/science-takes-on-a-silent-invader.html?_r=0
And here is the medical report on the biocide...
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23295683

 

[jollyroger]

Called Yamaha today. I talked to a nice person named Sean. He knew of no way to drain the waterboxes and suggested talking with a local dealer. The local dealer quoed me $200 to R & R the waterbox. Looks like if I go to Lake Powell I will be adding about $375.00 to the vacation.

Hopefully someone can figure out how to get the Wet & Forget into the waterbox; or an easy method to drain it. Hopefully the biocide cited above becomes a reality. If the waterbox is replaced I will talk to the dealer and maybe they can get creative for a method to drain ala the drain plug previously suggested.

 

[txav8r]

@jollyroger , there is zero reason to replace your water boxes unless they are damaged. You can merely treat them and just remove them, cleanup and put them back in. Even that it's overkill I think.

 

[KXCam22]

In my 230 it is impossible to get all of the water out of the water box, even by tipping it upside down and shaking. However, it would be relatively easy to add a spigot and hose on the top that allowed you to add a biocide to them after a day at the lake. It would have to be heat resistant hose but I am sure you could port them into the cleanout plug hatch. Just and idea. Cam.

ps hopefully too cold in my waters for them to like it.

 

[Ronnie]

I think you guys are making this harder than it is. I haven't done the research but I've been told by two people that I "have to boat at Lake Tahoe", like it's a bucket list item and I believe it. Concerned about failing the inspection process (the environmentalists are all over protecting Tahoe, no two strokes allowed, etc., etc.) after towing the boat 4 hours, I was told that everyone willing to pay passes. It's set up so that you go to a testing / prep station and pay about $120 for them to pump 180 degree water through your engine (don't know for how long) and clean/dry the boat as needed. There are bound to be places like that around popular protected (inspection program in place) lakes every where. If not , it seems like a good business to consider getting into.

Oh, and I second what a PITA it is to get to and remove a water box is, per Mel's prior comments. I had to access the area last year when I installed an in hull transducer for my depth/fish finder. If given the choice between being paid $200 to remove and/or drain them or paying someone $200 to flush them with hot water, I would choose the latter without hesitation every time. Working in a standing, bent over and sometimes inverted position, trying to pull apart heat hardened connections, if F...ing Hard Work! Especially if its being done outside in the heat or worse in the dark already. Still if anyone decides to do it, remember liquid dish soap (to help put it all back together) is your friend.

 

[txav8r]

@KXCam22 , I was thinking just a threaded, sealing, bolt. I think you could reach it under the clean out tray through the inspection port. You could remove them, have a squirt bottle of solution, and just squirt some into each box. Not boxes at all actually, they are cylinders with convex ends, a big 5 or 6" intake on the front, and a 5 or 6" exit to the exhaust exit. In my 230, I don't remember seeing baffles, in the 240...dunno, haven't looked yet. But I will eventually.

There are two things going on here. The desire to keep from spreading this menace, and the need to meet the letter of the law. Neither seem to live well together. If we definitely stop the menace using a biocide, then worrying about the water in the box is just to meet the standard. As many have said, most places are not going to ask you to start the boat to see if it ejects any water. And as I understand, Lake Powell has the mussels already. So just letting the boat and trailer dry for a week meets the requirements of the law at most lakes. Wouldn't any of you be satisfied if you had a way to introduce a biocide into the only place that holds water after you leave the lake?

 

[txav8r]

@Ronnie , that is a tip I am going to remember! Dishwashing soap! Thank you for that! I had a hell of a time getting that damn rubber hose back on that exhaust flange. OMG I thought I would just nuke the thing! Totally agree this isn't the issue this thread is setting up. This is a non issue even if your a green and protective environmentalist. Easy to control, but passing the test, well, I am with you. To go to Tahoe, I would pay the piper gladly! And Powell, well that is the one on my bucket list...and they got mussels, so I am golden! But I don't want to spread this crap anywhere. I revved to beat the band back when we would go to Texoma (mussels) and come back to Ray Roberts (no mussels at the time). But now we have mussels. I think the hot water thing works too. But without a steamer, that is hard to produce and introduce. The biocide sounds easy to me.

 

[jetboater4life]

Why not just flush the engine with biocide like us Northerner's sometimes do with antifreeze (so we can sleep better on those -30 degree winter nights.)

 

[Ronnie]

For those that want to do it the hard way consider this. In addition to the water boxes themselves each engine has a two part "resonator". See parts 8 , 16 on the parts diagram related to the link below. These rubber bladders look like black whoopee cushions and you can see at least one from the access port in the clean out tray, at least in the 240s. Anyway, these hold water as well and therefore should be drained and cleaned along with the the water box. Another thought would be to tap these parts on each engine / exhaust and lead lines from them to the clean out tray then use them to put biocide in the water box. I think these are the best parts because they are the cheapest at $25 and change, the other nearby exhaust hoses are $80!

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003a1a5f870021f60a12100/exhaust-3

 

[scokill]

Inline version of the variable rate hose end applicator would work. Put the biocide in the applicator between the hose and engine water inlet and run for 5 min on hose. Biocide gets in waterbox.

 

[mikum1968]

OK, tried to find a thread on this topic and failed.

It is my understanding that water stays in the waterbox. I have a 2012 SX190. Water needs to be at 140 degrees or better to kill the mussels? What is the temperature needed and for how long?

We are thinking of going to Lake Powell this summer. It kills me to think that I could, in any way bring back mussels to my home lakes that are mussel free. So would this work?

I heat up the home hot water tank so the water in the house is 150 degrees. Hook up the hose to the garage sink which has a hose connection. Run the 150 degree water through the engine. Would this eventually get nothing but 150 degree water into the waterbox & kill the mussels?

How long would I need to run the water and engine to kill the mussels? Is there a chance that the engine could overheat; if the water running through the engine is too hot? How hot would that be? I guess if the engine overheat alarm went off I would know the water s too hot. Then can quickly switch to cold water from the garage sink.

Thanks

Why don't you find your local aquatic invasive species station and have them run the hot water through your system for you? Every time I take my book to California, I have to pay to have this done in California. When I take my boat to Lake Mead in Nevada, I see the aquatic invasive species station right by the dock. I don't think it's that expensive. Seems like a lot less hassle than trying to do with yourself at home.

 

[Quad]

Am I the only one who sees Zebra and Quagga and starts thinking about OSPF and BGP?

 

[grywlfbg]

Am I the only one who sees Zebra and Quagga and starts thinking about OSPF and BGP?

No, but Unix routing nerds tend to not announce their membership to the general public

 

[Quad]

No, but Unix routing nerds tend to not announce their membership to the general public

Oops?

 

[ScottS]

Lake Powell has disinfecting stations at the ramp that I believe are free - although busy, especially on weekends. There are also independent disinfecting/decontamination stations in both Utah and Colorado that can disinfect with hot water for a fee. Lastly, the mandatory stop at the state line typically has a disinfecting/decontamination station. I stop at the Evanston, Wyoming state line on I-80 on my way to Flaming Gorge and routinely see people having their equipment disinfected by the DWR folks.

While I have no first-hand experience with Powell and the surrounding border stations, I imagine they would be the same. If you are saving your Powell trip for the end of the season, then you will have the added benefit of having had the boat out of the water for several months until next year and this will doubly assure that any onboard STD's are dead.

Utah also has some waterways that are infected with a type of mud snail that you should be aware of. The only body of water that I am aware of is Strawberry Reservoir for this issue.

See below link for decontamination info and a list of working stations available at the various locations on Lake Powell:

Mussel Decontamination - Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (U.S. National Park Service)

Mussel decontamination

www.nps.gov

.

Exiting Lake Powell
Not every boat requires the hot water decon service, but all boats must be inspected.

Inspection
All boaters must see the AIS technician at the launch ramp for inspection. Start the clean, drain, dry process asap to expedite the inspection. Remove all mud, plants, and animals from watercraft, trailer, anchor, and equipment. Pull all plugs and leave them out during transport. Drain water from watercraft and equipment (live wells, ballasts, and engines) before leaving the ramp.

Decon Treatment
The process of decontamination consists of flushing 140°F water through engine outdrives and other components to remove and kill the mussels. Only trained and certified decontaminators are allowed to perform this professional decontamination service.

The National Park Service works with Utah DWR and Arizona Game & Fish to provide Decontamination Stations at Lake Powell offering courtesy decontamination on the spot (for boats without attached quagga mussels). Stations are located at Wahweap, Bullfrog, Halls Crossing.

The AIS technician will inspect the boat and help you determine the next step, which may include decontamination at the on-site station. Boats with attached mussels will be directed to private decontaminators.

During the busy summer season, expect to wait in line for inspection. Please be patient. Our technicians are there to help stop the spread of AIS to other bodies of water. We are all in this together.

Professional Decontamination
Private businesses offer decontamination services in Page, AZ and near Bullfrog, Utah. The following businesses have been certified through Watercraft Inspection and Decontamination Training set forth by the Pacific States Marine Fisheries Commission and US Fish and Wildlife Service through the 100th Meridian Initiative. They can provide vessel decontamination services for a fee. These are independent business and are not associated with the National Park Service.

Mussel Busters
811 Vista Ave
Page, AZ 86040
928-660-0942

Offshore Marina
Hwy 276 Mile Marker 30
Lake Powell, UT 84533
844-662-2628 ext 506