• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

MFI Trailer Rebuild

Hey all, I replaced my leaf springs, u bolts, and bolts using this thread and part numbers for it. One thing I would change is the leaf spring length. I used 26" ones using part numbers at the beginning of this thread and after mounting I would go with 25 1/4" ones instead. I do like having each leaf spring rated at 2k but where they come together in the middle is too tight with the 26" ones. I have a 2010 MFI trailer for a Yamaha 242 Limited S for reference. I used a Ridgid 18v impact cordless gun which really helped a ton. 7/8" on the bolts through the leaf springs and 19mm on u-bolts under each leaf spring. Since you shouldn't reuse any of the ubolts, I'm going to let it ride and see how it does but thought I would share. Northern tool carries 25 1/4" leaf springs for those that have one nearby. Save some money for sure.
 
Here`s a ballpark on some pricing that I`m seeing for mine which is a 242. Springs, ubolts, and linkage about $285. Hubs are $55 each (Academy sports - galvanized), so $220.00 (comes with bearing kit already greased and ready to put on) if you go for slip on rotor brakes like kodiak on one axle which if lake grade about $300.00 (kit comes with brake pads). Brake line kit and actuator for trailer tongue about $340.00 i think. I havent priced axles, but would guess at $300.00 each at most so $600.00. So i would guess if all of that needs to be done you`re at about $1745.00 worse case for this stuff. If you come up with better pricing on the axles then less, i just havent got there yet. It would be that pricing with you labor obviously. Mine is an MFI, and i know many have had some complaints about them. But to date for me I`ve found all the parts readily to fix everything to date except the fenders. Tried Northern tool for that as suggested by others and it doesn`t quite fit. But looks better than before. I wanted to go new trailer route in the beginning, but i made the decision to keep mine. A quote for aluminum for my 242 was at $4700.00 i think, and I`d have to drive nearly 2 hours one way to get it.
 
I bought a load write 5 star 7000 pound aluminum I beam trailer for 3 k in 2016.. torsion axles... led lights radial tires...

@bronze_10 Sorta a thread necro, but I'm nearing this need in the next few months. What's the pro/con of torsion bars vs leaf springs? In the car world, torsion bars are just cheaper and you don't really want them. Same deal for a trailer?

Any idea how much your trailer weighs?

Got a dealer recommendation?
 
I used Collins marine in Smithfield nc
In the trailer world torsion axels are an upgrade. The freaking boat just glides man.. i love it. Its like independent suspension for you boat.

I don't know right off have how much it weighs but I know it is much much more beefy than my old mfi trailer was. No comparison.

Upgrading the trailer was the best mod I have done.
 
Upgrading has been a headache for me. Mostly because my trailer dealer was horrendous and wouldn’t setup the boat on it. On Long Island theres not many trailer places unfortunately. I had the trailer scrape my keel on a launch which forced me to self repair and get a keel guard. Still trying to balance and work out this kinks. But I have torsions and it’s very very nice. Got it with vortex oil hubs too.
 
Upgrading has been a headache for me. Mostly because my trailer dealer was horrendous and wouldn’t setup the boat on it. On Long Island theres not many trailer places unfortunately. I had the trailer scrape my keel on a launch which forced me to self repair and get a keel guard. Still trying to balance and work out this kinks. But I have torsions and it’s very very nice. Got it with vortex oil hubs too.
I worked on commercial trucks and trailers and have worked extensively with oil bath hubs. But for the entire time I have had boats I have always had the grease hubs. Im not sure how the oil bath holds up but several people here have them and they seem to work well.
 
We bought our 2007 SX 230 this summer and had a similar white knuckle, non-working brakes, in-op lights experience. To save time, I took it to a local trailer place and had them redo everything with the braking system including a new actuator slide / reservoir, new brake lines, four rotors and calipers, and new led lights. The trailer was pretty rusted in spots (had been used in salt water) and it looked like a previous owner disconnected the brakes on one of the two axles, probably after they seized up.
Would have saved money by ordering from the parts links in the above posting, but ended up paying retail for parts either off-the-shelf from the trailer place or special ordered. Finally got all the trailer lights working and brakes are working great now.
Was thinking that a new trailer would have been better than putting in the $$ for repairs and replacing all the brakes, until I learned that a new Shoreland'r costs about $5K-$6K, so putting $2K into the existing trailer to get it working and reliable did not seem too crazy.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1570.jpg
    IMG_1570.jpg
    132.9 KB · Views: 67
  • IMG_1571.jpg
    IMG_1571.jpg
    129.8 KB · Views: 69
  • IMG_1572.jpg
    IMG_1572.jpg
    148.7 KB · Views: 64
  • IMG_1573.jpg
    IMG_1573.jpg
    103.2 KB · Views: 67
  • IMG_1574.jpg
    IMG_1574.jpg
    88.8 KB · Views: 69
I had my trailer worked on over the summer as well. RV dealer near my place replaced calipers and pads, and installed a new Dexter A-70 actuator (lines were in good shape) for $750.
So worth it!
 
This thread is very helpful. I’m getting ready to rebuild my brake system and replace the springs on my 2010 MFI trailer for a SX210.

based on the discussions above, it looks like I should be okay With the following,

Brake kit


actuator


Does anyone have any input or recommendations to make sure I’m on the right track.

Also, does anyone have the part numbers for the springs.

thanks,
Rob
 
Last edited:
@Rknauer8” , do you really need to replace all the brake parts? Hub bearings and everything?
 
Yes, most likely. The brakes are not working at all, the rotors are shot and I suspect the actuator is also not working. I figure it would be best to rebuild the whole system since it’s 11 years old. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 28C43C24-D76B-4A46-9A7F-2FD770613FB3.jpeg
    28C43C24-D76B-4A46-9A7F-2FD770613FB3.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 54
  • 642BAB16-64CE-4052-9B82-52BEC706C24D.jpeg
    642BAB16-64CE-4052-9B82-52BEC706C24D.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 59
I would go with 25 1/4" springs when you do it. Let me see if I can find where I got mine at. 26" on my MFI was too long
 
Just curious if there is any difference in the part numbers listed for a 2008 model trailer? I have a mechanic who is doing the work and his measurements are a bit different. I was told I need a 100 in axel and that the springs are 30in by 1 9/16th wide
 
Anybody replace break light bulbs in a 2006 MFI trailer? Got the lens off. Exposed the water tight bulb compartment but can only get the right side out. Looks like the left side just has a tab that slides into a slot. It's loose but won't come out. Also wondering how to get into the watertight compartment to change the bulb.
 

Attachments

  • 20210317_141103.jpg
    20210317_141103.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 53
Back
Top