scokill
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,585
- Reaction score
- 1,194
- Points
- 272
- Location
- Rowlett, TX
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
So I've been putting off fixing my broken break away cable which is needed to pass trailer inspection and get registration. Once I got inside I found the master cylinder was rusted and frozen as well as the shock. I've long suspected the brakes didn't work but hasn't really been an issue as I only drive 2 mi across a bridge to launch and then back home. Let me tell you that they do not make it easy to get the unit out. You have to remove the flexible hose where it transitions to the brake lines and it's tight quarters for two wrenches. I used a wrench and needle nose vice grips to hold one side while using another wrench to remove the brake line. Once I did this the whole unit slid out with the rubber hose attached.
I ordered the replacement actuator assembly which contains everything. The hose was looking worn so I went ahead and ordered another hose. About $350 to get the brakes working again. I had already replaced one caliper assembly and the other one is still moving in and fine when I checked it. Mine were UFP A-75. It appears that the DX7.5L A-60 inner member and assembly are also compatible and I like the connector a little better, but I just didn't want to risk incompatibility even though it says it's compatible.
Once I got everything out and got the lay of the land on the parts and how they work it's really not that difficult. The most difficult part will be to hook the brake line back up inside a small opening in the trailer frame.
I'll be driving a few times without the brakes but it's no different than for a couple of years since they havent' worked anyway.
I ordered the replacement actuator assembly which contains everything. The hose was looking worn so I went ahead and ordered another hose. About $350 to get the brakes working again. I had already replaced one caliper assembly and the other one is still moving in and fine when I checked it. Mine were UFP A-75. It appears that the DX7.5L A-60 inner member and assembly are also compatible and I like the connector a little better, but I just didn't want to risk incompatibility even though it says it's compatible.
Once I got everything out and got the lay of the land on the parts and how they work it's really not that difficult. The most difficult part will be to hook the brake line back up inside a small opening in the trailer frame.
I'll be driving a few times without the brakes but it's no different than for a couple of years since they havent' worked anyway.