Milky oil, can't tell if it's fuel or water

[dghahn]

I just traded my sailboat for an sx210. Thought i got a great deal until i noticed that the port engine sounded different than the starboard. Looking at the oil it was milky. i immediately thought it must be water in the oil. I pumped the oil out three times getting as much as i could each time, and replaced the filter. Within 20 seconds of running the engine the milky oil returned.

I put the first two quarts of oil pumped out into a 2 liter bottle a week ago and sealed it. When i look at it, it is no longer milky, and i don't see any water/oil separation. I'm starting to think it may be fuel in the oil. The question is how can fuel get into the oil that quickly? Possibly a stuck injector, but within 20 seconds of starting the engine? and it starts/runs well, although there is a knocking sound, but may be related to thinning of the oil. Any ideas?

 

[Scottintexas]

The problem is sucking the oil from reservoir and changing the filter only gets about half the oil out, most members that have gone through this have to do 3-4 oil changes before they start to see real improvement,

You can also add ATF to the oil, it attracts water and will help clear it up faster,

there is a drain plug at the back of the engine but it is very hard to access so most don't use it, instructions are in the FAQ tab at the top of the page or the search button, top right,

Are you running the engine on a hose at home or on the water?
The other possibility is you have a cracked head/block/manifold allowing the cooling water in,

You may try changing the oil and running the engine for a minute or two without the cooling water and then change the oil again to get some progress getting water out and then using the cooling hose while running and see if the water comes back,

I would think fuel or water with a sealed bottle you would see something separated since nothing could evaporate,

 

[PaulyB]

When I had water in the oil in one of my motors, I changed the oil 8 times and it still came out milky. You have to run the engine at temp and let the water evaporate to get all of the water out of the oil. It doesnt take much water at all to make the water milky.

 

[Scottintexas]

This was Cobra Jeff's advice,
"1 pint of Dextron 2 transmission fluid to the oil as it will work as a catalyst to mix the water with the oil and make it easy to remove all the water with an oil change."

 

[dghahn]

Thanks for the quick reply. This gives me some hope that all is not lost. I will try the transmission fluid, and run it out of the water, i just don't want to run it too long without water. It is on a lift, so it's not on a hose, but i have made the mistake with some old Seadoos of running water before the engine was started. i won't do that again.

I thought 3 pump outs would give me some results, but i'll keep going. Oil is cheaper than a new engine. I attempt to get to the drain plug, that would at least guarantee a full flush with changing the filter.

Thanks...Dan

 

[sunbyrned]

The problem is sucking the oil from reservoir and changing the filter only gets about half the oil out, most members that have gone through this have to do 3-4 oil changes before they start to see real improvement,

You can also add ATF to the oil, it attracts water and will help clear it up faster,

there is a drain plug at the back of the engine but it is very hard to access so most don't use it, instructions are in the FAQ tab at the top of the page or the search button, top right,

Are you running the engine on a hose at home or on the water?
The other possibility is you have a cracked head/block/manifold allowing the cooling water in,

You may try changing the oil and running the engine for a minute or two without the cooling water and then change the oil again to get some progress getting water out and then using the cooling hose while running and see if the water comes back,

I would think fuel or water with a sealed bottle you would see something separated since nothing could evaporate,

Is it safe to run the engine that long without water? Anything after a few seconds concerns me but maybe I should't be.(?)

 

[Scottintexas]

many of us have mistakenly run the engine with the hose off at the house for a few minutes (we've heard sometimes until the overheat kicks in or even the engine goes into limp mode)

anyways, I would not suggest it as a common practice but in this situation and not more than a minute maybe two just to circulate the new oil, I don't think with previous members experience the chances of damaging the engine are slim,

here is the link about a complete oil drain,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/

I also agree with Pauly, once you get comfortable you've gotten a good amount out you have to run it hot to evaporate the remaining water




.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

On the regular 1800 engines I just developed a way to drain the oil from the front of the engine so I only have to tilt the engine so it is leaning forward and then extract the oil from my new mod but unfortunately you have a MR1 So if I recall correctly there is a drain bolt built in the bottom of the MR1 maybe someone would remember that I personally never owned one I just recall it being discussed somewhere in the 18 years I have been on these web sites. Now if we could only find that info LOL.

 

[dghahn]

Thanks everyone, i will try to find the drain plug this weekend. Regarding running it without water, I am concerned about running without water, does anyone have any advice on how long is too long, or recommendations on what is a safe amount of time. Hopefully it won't come to that if i can get to the drain plug.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

All kidding aside if you tilt the engine forward and let the remaining water and oil drain out the front of the engine sufficiently and decide however you want to collect the oil , put in fresh oil and then do not run for more than a couple minutes at a time with no water hooked up you should be ok. I sure wish they still made Dextron II transmission fluid because that stuff worked like a champ to mix the water with the oil so you could remove it so easily. One thing is if you use a settling jug, bucket or container with a bottom drain. Then let it sit to allow the water to separate from the oil ,drain it off then the oil will be capable of being reused in the process once again.

 

[Scottintexas]

So if I recall correctly there is a drain bolt built in the bottom of the MR1 maybe someone would remember that I personally never owned one I just recall it being discussed somewhere in the 18 years I have been on these web sites. Now if we could only find that info LOL.

i will try to find the drain plug this weekend.

Here is the link from post #7 above with the link to the complete drain from our FAQ section,

here is the link about a complete oil drain,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/

//////

Regarding running it without water, I am concerned about running without water, does anyone have any advice on how long is too long, or recommendations on what is a safe amount of time.

no one knows the time, what we do know is
1. that the ECU will send the engine into limp mode if it reaches a threshold,
2. many (5-10 members) have posted about mistakenly running the engine at home thinking the water was running only to find out it wasn't, some ran them for just a minute others until steam was coming out of the peepholes and some until the engine went into limp mode,

If this were my boat I would not hesitate to run it for 1-2 minutes at idle to try to circulate some oil, if I received an overheat alarm I would of course stop it immediately and if you had a YDS you could monitor actual engine temps,


.

 

[dghahn]

Does it have to be Dexron II? I can find Dexron VI, but all references keep going back to II regarding water in the oil.

 

[dghahn]

Thanks for the link for the "complete drain", i hadn't seen that one, it looks difficult but worth it. i would rather put the time in to make sure it is fully drained. I'm a little paranoid about running the engine without water.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Yes the formula would immediately mix water and oil the last thread about water in the oil we learned that the dextron II is no more. As for the info on the drain @Scottintexas posted it on here already https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/ however if you don't mind doing a wash out of the hull I bet a reversed wet vac blowing air into the engine with the drain removed would push the water out.

 

[dghahn]

I sucked out as much oil as i could, and removed the oil filter, but when i went to pull the drain plug i pulled three different bolts before i realized that the 2011 sx210 doesn't have the MR1 engine, so the pictures didn't match. I found a diagram for my engine at: 2011 Yamaha SX210 (FRT1100BLK) Crankcase | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse

but i can't find a drain plug on this engine. Does anyone know where the drain plug is on this engine, i'm sure i'm just missing something.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

you sure you have the correct year I just double checked and it shows a m r 1 engine 2011 Yamaha Prices & Values both 210 models have 110 hp engines only the 24 foot show 1800 engines what are the last digits of your hull id number?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

apparently on the m r 1 according to this picture the drain is at the rear of the engine NOT the front so that may be why you can't find it I thought it was in the front MY BAD

 

[dghahn]

there is a very good chance that i'm wrong about a lot of things, but it didn't look anything like the pictures, so i am including the only ID number i see on the valve cover. I'm going to go back and take pictures with my phone to look and see if i'm just missing something.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

BOATS hull id number or just a full picture of the engine sticker is hard to read but I think it says it is a m r 1 by the displacement on the sticker

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

sure looks like 1052 displacement so if that is what it says It is a MR1