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Milky oil, can't tell if it's fuel or water

Can you explain the last part? Are you saying to remove the oil then start the engine? Or change the oil (remove old, replace with new oil) a few times then run the sh*t out of it to get the engine really hot before changing it again?
Do not run engine without oil. You can run engine without water for a little over a minute, but never after oil has been removed.
 
Do not run engine without oil. You can run engine without water for a little over a minute, but never after oil has been removed.
Thanks for the confirmation. I was confusing the suggestion to cycle the engine with the lanyard pulled to extract more oil from the reservoir, and the suggestion to run the engine hot after extracting the contaminated oil as the same type of idea.
Now I just have to figure out how to get the residual oil out of the bottom of my engine bay and bilge after some spilled from the rear engine lower drain plug..
 
As long as it was not so much as to foul the bilge pump, I would just collect it where it drains from the boat. In the past I have cut the bottoms of 1 gallon plastic milk jugs to place under the engine drain; then extract it from the milk carton bottom with an oil extractor. Now, I think it is easier to just change it multiple times. I have the same boat as you do.

Here is a somewhat related subject. The only time I run on the hose is when I get out of the water to flush the motors. If I am going to change the oil, I run the engine for 60 No-Wake flashes (73 seconds). I have not had an overheat yet doing that. In that 73 seconds, the oil gets hot enough to easily extract. Running on the hose leaves water in the engine cooling system. It does not all get removed by revving up and down for 15 seconds, as the owners manual seems to imply. I use the water off run procedure I just mentioned to periodically dry out the cooling system. It has worked for me.
 
@Tuffkopf - glad to have you on board,

Are you currently having engine issues ?? If so it might be better to start a new thread for us to help your exact issue,

In the previous post I meant running the engine without a flush/cooling hose hooked up, every scenario is different but if I needed to circulate oil to remove stuff and didn't have access to a hose for flush/cooling I'd would worry about running it for a minute or two,


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@Tuffkopf - glad to have you on board,

Are you currently having engine issues ?? If so it might be better to start a new thread for us to help your exact issue,
Thanks @Scottintexas
Hopefully I don’t have an ongoing issue. New jet boat owner, and after first run on the lake, discovered milky oil in port engine. Performed 1 oil change and it was still milky, I did 2nd oil change this weekend using the “complete engine drain” and put 4 qt of fresh Mobile 1 and new filter on port engine. After running at idle tied to the dock, the oil is clean. Now gotta get it on the water for full-throttle runs and check the oil again. If the milky oil returns, I’ll create a new post for the full diagnosis assistance.
 
I'd be very cautious as milky oil isn't normally a one time occurrence like water in your fuel tank,

check your oil often !

Did you check the oil before you bought the boat? if so did the owner voluntarily do it before the test ride ?

unless somebody sabotaged you there's a very good possibility you've got internal issues, first guess would be the exhaust manifold,

good luck and keep us posted,



also, check out the link in my signature below for lots of good things to be aware of with your model boat, especially the scupper valve,



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