Milky oil repair?

[WREKS]

I found a corrosion channel in cylinder head on exhaust side of Cylinder#1. Purchasing a new head was not an option. Trying to repair it was. This is what I did: Drilled deeper into the corrosion channel to make a better anchor for the patch (like a root canal only on an engine head); Packed it with JB Marine Weld; braced the patch with a wedge of aluminum; Reinstalled head. So far I have only tested the patch on the hose at numerous 10 minute no-wake rpm, and 1 brief on the water acceleration to plane. So far, there is no milky oil, so I am fairly sure I found the problem; just not sure of the solution; Here are the pics:

 

[ToddW850]

Nice fix!

 

[anmut]

I found a corrosion channel in cylinder head on exhaust side of Cylinder#1. Purchasing a new head was not an option. Trying to repair it was. This is what I did: Drilled deeper into the corrosion channel to make a better anchor for the patch (like a root canal only on an engine head); Packed it with JB Marine Weld; braced the patch with a wedge of aluminum; Reinstalled head. So far I have only tested the patch on the hose at numerous 10 minute no-wake rpm, and 1 brief on the water acceleration to plane. So far, there is no milky oil, so I am fairly sure I found the problem; just not sure of the solution; Here are the pics:

If it lasts through a day of high rpm boating you may be good. I’d be checking my oil before, during, and after each trip. For the situation though, nice work!

 

[WREKS]

Thanks to all for response. I will update, hopefully before May 1.

 

[swatski]

That sucks. But at least you now what's going on, so there is no guessing and chasing your tail. I believe @Seadeals (?) and/or other members have used JBWeld to plug up block cracks with success?

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[4x15mph]

@WREKS good fix. Your valves look rusted... yes?

 

[Brad460]

This repair should hold just fine...thinking the aluminum wedge was an overkill and will impede coolant flow.

 

[Scottintexas]

@WREKS do you have a yds to monitor the engine temps while on the water? Iy may be a good tool to watch the first time out

 

[Seadeals]

Sometimes you just have to give it a try. As @swatski said, I did an external doubler repair with JB weld on a small crank case crack that was developing along the casting line of cylinder 3. That was now three years ago. “Donor” VX waverunners get cheaper every year if it ever comes to that. Also a non-contact infrared thermometer is a cheap and accurate way you can compare cylinders and port/starboard temps at the specific location.

 

[WREKS]

@WREKS good fix. Your valves look rusted... yes?

Yes, I think that is what happens getting water vapor in the cylinder. That çylinder #1 was above 217F.

 

[WREKS]

Sometimes you just have to give it a try. As @swatski said, I did an external doubler repair with JB weld on a small crank case crack that was developing along the casting line of cylinder 3. That was now three years ago. “Donor” VX waverunners get cheaper every year if it ever comes to that. Also a non-contact infrared thermometer is a cheap and accurate way you can compare cylinders and port/starboard temps at the specific location.

Thanks, I will definitely keep the VX in mind. I use the infrared quite a lot. I have had numerous overheats. All seem to be up by #1.

 

[WREKS]

@WREKS do you have a yds to monitor the engine temps while on the water? Iy may be a good tool to watch the first time out

@Scottintexas the YDS has helped. I depend more on the engine temp sensor just to shut it down. I will probably stay below 8K. Thanks.

 

[WREKS]

This repair should hold just fine...thinking the aluminum wedge was an overkill and will impede coolant flow.

@Brad460 I worry about the coolant flow. That area is the farthest from the supply to the cylinder. I was/am afraid the patch may blowout since I could not clean up the cavity very well.

 

[WREKS]

That sucks. But at least you now what's going on, so there is no guessing and chasing your tail. I believe @Seadeals (?) and/or other members have used JBWeld to plug up block cracks with success?

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@swatski Yes. I feel better dealing with the devil I can see. Thanks!

 

[WREKS]

Fix worked. Made 8.5 mile run on C-24 canal into St Lucie River past Roosevelt Bridge in Stuart, Fl. Most of the run was at approximately 7500 rpm except for the No-Wake manatee zones. No problems on way down and back.

 

[WREKS]

Update: No water in oil since sea trial at end of April. I have not been on water since then but run the engines on the hose at No-Wake speed for ten minutes twice a month. So far, no moisture contaminated oil.

 

[swatski]

Fix worked. Made 8.5 mile run on C-24 canal into St Lucie River past Roosevelt Bridge in Stuart, Fl. Most of the run was at approximately 7500 rpm except for the No-Wake manatee zones. No problems on way down and back.

Based on my own recent experience - that ^^^ is pretty convincing.

Update: No water in oil since sea trial at end of April. I have not been on water since then but run the engines on the hose at No-Wake speed for ten minutes twice a month. So far, no moisture contaminated oil.

But this ^^^ is not. In my case the engine needed to be really pushed to start make milky oil, it did not do it between oil changes/flushes when run on the hose at the shop.

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[WREKS]

Yesterday we made a 70 mile run from C-24 Canal park to Fort Pierce and back. Between 7-8.5K. No milky oil. Fort Pierce, Fl