Speedling
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 5,105
- Reaction score
- 4,304
- Points
- 432
- Location
- Cedar Lake, IN
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- SS
- Boat Length
- 21
8/18/2014 - Created Thread and copied much information, but still a work in progress. This is just drag and dropped from other site ATM
This is a guide for removing the computer box behind the engine, and replacing the solenoid, which some are calling a starter switch.
I did not see a guide for this anywhere here, or on the internet at large, even on PWC sites for the waverunners.
Hopefully it helps!!!
1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, THEN make sure you have plenty of light in the engine bay as finding things can be a bit tricky at times. I used a drop light, and a portable light as well. The battery cables are what we are working with. It's not a recommendation this time.
2. Start by your clean-out ports. Take off the entire tray. It is recommended to wear long sleeves for this as the bare fiberglass is rough and can become stuck in your skin as well!
A. Open Hatch
B. Put a towel or something under the door of the hatch so it's not resting right up against the deck of the boat as we will be detaching the support straps. Some sort of blocking can work as well, just make sure the hatch isn't resting on the boat itself as damage can occur, especially if you accidentally rest a hand on it. In all honesty, REMOVE it as this is safest anyways.
C. Disconnect the Support straps or struts depending on your tray design
D. Unplug your clean-out plugs and set them on top of the holes sideways so they can come out with the tray
E. Unscrew all the screws holding the tray in, along with the two that have a rubber grommet on them
F. Use a flat headed screwdriver, or other prying device upside down in the clean-out port holes to dislodge the tray from the tubes. They are calked together. You may be able to reach in from the access hatch and unscrew the clamps on the tubes as well. If you can, awesome! But the whole tray will slide off with a little effort anyways. You will want that caulk broken free either way.
G. Lift the tray up, but not too hard or high, as we are leaving the hatch switches in and just using the extra length to move the whole tray to the side. See picture! (NOTE: If you don't have a good work area, it may be better to simply unscrew them and set the whole thing off to the side. However, you will have to re-set the Kill switches to the correct height!)
3. In the engine bay, locate and unplug the box that is on the side of the computer box. It will have a few larger wires going into it. No need to label it really, this will be the only thing it plugs into.
4. Unplug your spark plugs and slide the wires back towards the box until the first plug reaches that "ring". If you can fit them through, great, but it's not really needed. You are just going for a little extra wiggle room here.
5. Cut some of the "zip" ties away from the wires and looms from under the box, being very careful not to cut any wires!!! Again, this is mostly for wiggle room. Do it not rather than later. Also, look to see which ones you think you would easily be able to re-tie yourself later and cut those first.
6. Take the small plate off where the battery and starter cables attach to the solenoid inside the box. 4 screws with 2 screws holding the cables on. Be sure to save the rubber seal and the two sealing blocks on the cables. Be sure to label which one goes where as well!!!
7. With a friend on the back of the boat reaching in your open tray, have them put a wrench on the bolts that correspond to the computer box. They will have a nylon lock nut with a washer that is slightly bent to the contour of the boat. 17 mm I believe. If you are doing this project yourself, use a Vice-grips on the nut to keep it in place, and so you can find it later.
8. With a 17 mm socket wrench take the bolts out from the engine bay compartment, paying CLOSE attention to the plastic SPACERS that will be falling out when you pull the bolt out. They will fall to the bottom of the engine bay and be a pain to get out unless you plan on catching them! I recommend taking the bottom bolts out first, and the top bolts out last.
9. Take the whole box and set it on top of the intake box. Hopefully you disconnected enough and cut enough ties to where this isn't a problem. You should be seeing a bunch of bolt heads on the back of the box.
10. I believe it is 10 mm heads on these bolts. I used a cordless screw-gun with a socket adapter and buzzed them all right off no problem.
11. Watching that you don't break/ruin the rubber, take the back lid off of the box.
12. The solenoid/starter should slide off as it's a simple rubber bushing type of deal sliding on two plastic tabs with the back of the box to keep it in place.
13. There are two wires coming off of it that you need to get at. They are covered in a good plastic coating but it is clear so you can see the type of connectors. Mine was a clear-green. Just take a razor knife and cut it where the connectors come together and it should pull right apart.
14. Attach the new solenoid to those same wires, and get some electrical shrink tubing to go over it. I recommend this only for water issues. Better safe than sorry. Electrical tape should work fine, but for a write up like this, I'm going to tell you to use the shrink tubing. You don't want these wires touching anything.
15. Put the new solenoid back exactly how you took the old out and put the gasket on the box. You put the gasket on first because there are PINS for lining it up. THEN put the back of the box on it and screw it down. Do NOT over-tighten!!! If you want to be technical, probably just snug them down to the plastic so everything is sealed. I would say no more than 12-14 ft-lbs of pressure. I used my cordless drill which has settings on it that I measured out for torque ratings and I used the one that is about 10 ft-lbs and it was MORE than enough.
16. Put the box back into place and put a couple of the bolts through the top. Just finger tighten them quick for now and be sure to use those spacers!!!!
17. At this point I would reattach the cables, be sure the shrouds are over the terminals, and reconnect the battery. TEST it a few times to make sure it works. If not, well, you may have another issue....
18. Disconnect the battery again and reassemble reverse of disassemble.
19. I would consider putting more caulk around the tubes that connect to the cleanout tray, however, I plan on messing with the exhaust and don't really mind getting a little itty bitty bit of water in the hull now and again. It would really only put a lot in there if you have a plug blow out, but I have the tru-locks.
I have included some pictures to help you along with your process.
PLEASE let me know if you think I missed something or if you need more information!
Speedling
Clean-out Tray detached and put to the side.
View of the plug and bolts
Box out and on top of Intake box
Box laying open so you can see what's inside.
This is a guide for removing the computer box behind the engine, and replacing the solenoid, which some are calling a starter switch.
I did not see a guide for this anywhere here, or on the internet at large, even on PWC sites for the waverunners.
Hopefully it helps!!!
1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, THEN make sure you have plenty of light in the engine bay as finding things can be a bit tricky at times. I used a drop light, and a portable light as well. The battery cables are what we are working with. It's not a recommendation this time.
2. Start by your clean-out ports. Take off the entire tray. It is recommended to wear long sleeves for this as the bare fiberglass is rough and can become stuck in your skin as well!
A. Open Hatch
B. Put a towel or something under the door of the hatch so it's not resting right up against the deck of the boat as we will be detaching the support straps. Some sort of blocking can work as well, just make sure the hatch isn't resting on the boat itself as damage can occur, especially if you accidentally rest a hand on it. In all honesty, REMOVE it as this is safest anyways.
C. Disconnect the Support straps or struts depending on your tray design
D. Unplug your clean-out plugs and set them on top of the holes sideways so they can come out with the tray
E. Unscrew all the screws holding the tray in, along with the two that have a rubber grommet on them
F. Use a flat headed screwdriver, or other prying device upside down in the clean-out port holes to dislodge the tray from the tubes. They are calked together. You may be able to reach in from the access hatch and unscrew the clamps on the tubes as well. If you can, awesome! But the whole tray will slide off with a little effort anyways. You will want that caulk broken free either way.
G. Lift the tray up, but not too hard or high, as we are leaving the hatch switches in and just using the extra length to move the whole tray to the side. See picture! (NOTE: If you don't have a good work area, it may be better to simply unscrew them and set the whole thing off to the side. However, you will have to re-set the Kill switches to the correct height!)
3. In the engine bay, locate and unplug the box that is on the side of the computer box. It will have a few larger wires going into it. No need to label it really, this will be the only thing it plugs into.
4. Unplug your spark plugs and slide the wires back towards the box until the first plug reaches that "ring". If you can fit them through, great, but it's not really needed. You are just going for a little extra wiggle room here.
5. Cut some of the "zip" ties away from the wires and looms from under the box, being very careful not to cut any wires!!! Again, this is mostly for wiggle room. Do it not rather than later. Also, look to see which ones you think you would easily be able to re-tie yourself later and cut those first.
6. Take the small plate off where the battery and starter cables attach to the solenoid inside the box. 4 screws with 2 screws holding the cables on. Be sure to save the rubber seal and the two sealing blocks on the cables. Be sure to label which one goes where as well!!!
7. With a friend on the back of the boat reaching in your open tray, have them put a wrench on the bolts that correspond to the computer box. They will have a nylon lock nut with a washer that is slightly bent to the contour of the boat. 17 mm I believe. If you are doing this project yourself, use a Vice-grips on the nut to keep it in place, and so you can find it later.
8. With a 17 mm socket wrench take the bolts out from the engine bay compartment, paying CLOSE attention to the plastic SPACERS that will be falling out when you pull the bolt out. They will fall to the bottom of the engine bay and be a pain to get out unless you plan on catching them! I recommend taking the bottom bolts out first, and the top bolts out last.
9. Take the whole box and set it on top of the intake box. Hopefully you disconnected enough and cut enough ties to where this isn't a problem. You should be seeing a bunch of bolt heads on the back of the box.
10. I believe it is 10 mm heads on these bolts. I used a cordless screw-gun with a socket adapter and buzzed them all right off no problem.
11. Watching that you don't break/ruin the rubber, take the back lid off of the box.
12. The solenoid/starter should slide off as it's a simple rubber bushing type of deal sliding on two plastic tabs with the back of the box to keep it in place.
13. There are two wires coming off of it that you need to get at. They are covered in a good plastic coating but it is clear so you can see the type of connectors. Mine was a clear-green. Just take a razor knife and cut it where the connectors come together and it should pull right apart.
14. Attach the new solenoid to those same wires, and get some electrical shrink tubing to go over it. I recommend this only for water issues. Better safe than sorry. Electrical tape should work fine, but for a write up like this, I'm going to tell you to use the shrink tubing. You don't want these wires touching anything.
15. Put the new solenoid back exactly how you took the old out and put the gasket on the box. You put the gasket on first because there are PINS for lining it up. THEN put the back of the box on it and screw it down. Do NOT over-tighten!!! If you want to be technical, probably just snug them down to the plastic so everything is sealed. I would say no more than 12-14 ft-lbs of pressure. I used my cordless drill which has settings on it that I measured out for torque ratings and I used the one that is about 10 ft-lbs and it was MORE than enough.
16. Put the box back into place and put a couple of the bolts through the top. Just finger tighten them quick for now and be sure to use those spacers!!!!
17. At this point I would reattach the cables, be sure the shrouds are over the terminals, and reconnect the battery. TEST it a few times to make sure it works. If not, well, you may have another issue....
18. Disconnect the battery again and reassemble reverse of disassemble.
19. I would consider putting more caulk around the tubes that connect to the cleanout tray, however, I plan on messing with the exhaust and don't really mind getting a little itty bitty bit of water in the hull now and again. It would really only put a lot in there if you have a plug blow out, but I have the tru-locks.
I have included some pictures to help you along with your process.
PLEASE let me know if you think I missed something or if you need more information!
Speedling
Clean-out Tray detached and put to the side.
View of the plug and bolts
Box out and on top of Intake box
Box laying open so you can see what's inside.
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