MR-1 Solenoid Replacement and ECM removal

[Bruce]

@TwinEngine, do you think the failing solenoids might be a result of the starters failing and pulling more amps?

I do not know what the factory spec should be but it might be worth getting an amp clamp around the wire to the starter and checking how much it is drawing while cranking.

 

[itsdgm]

This thread was super helpful the 'first' time I did the Port starter solenoid relay so thanks for this huge help!! Wasn't a hard job just annoying design and would have no trouble doing again...

BUT

The Port starter solenoid is just clicking again. Ordered a pair of solenoids off Amazon but they are different than the last ones?!

First one was from GlenParts (left) that worked for like 6 months, second from Caltric on right. But in the pic you can see part is same but letters for Battery and Motor are reversed?!

I hooked it up same as old one just clicked, then noticed B/M reversed so reversed the power wires and no click at all.

Anyway, thinking I'll just order the old GlenParts relay again or then start looking at the starter as problem - UGH

Any input is good.
https://goo.gl/photos/VxGfanM2m9HxWqrv8

That's a bummer @TwinEngine Out of curiousity, have you tried running the solenoid from the starboard engine on the port side and testing the port solenoid on the starboard side?

 

[Firehouse100]

itsdgm, that would be a good diagnostic way to possibly look at. I spent less then 10 bucks for mine which I haven't put in yet but I don't want the extra work of taking the other one apart. Funny I found my kill switch problem like that a few years ago. The amp draw from the starter is also a good point, but for as I mention earlier I was always able to get it stared eventually so it is still a puzzle for me.

 

[Bruce]

It is possible that a starter with a failing coil would start to draw more amperage before total failure. That could cause the relay to overheat or fail.

 

[TwinEngine]

That's a bummer @TwinEngine Out of curiousity, have you tried running the solenoid from the starboard engine on the port side and testing the port solenoid on the starboard side?

Thought about it but wanted to keep one engine running to get it to marina if needed haha. Will check voltages and amps next with neighbor who is electrical engineer. Is it odd that it's always my port engine relay too? Anyway going to test and buy the same relay I bought last time or OEM since like to rule out that it's the new part that's the problem.

Sucks really thought new relay would repair the no start click.

Hope it's not starter how annoying is that to swap out?

PS: I also has (and fixed) the kill switch problem that was easy diagnose and fix.

 

[TwinEngine]

Thanks for all the input. So me and engineer neighbor tested the Port engine starter lead and it's getting proper voltage. So we pulled the starter maybe it was dead... but it was fine - spun right up with 12V power supply.

Popped old starter back in the motor, nothing, then it caught once so we figured bad starter with intermittent engagement.

Bought new starter from Caltric on Amazon for $113 shipped and popped it in.

BUT

Still won't crank, just clicks on Port side even though the starter and starter relay switch are new and voltage is fine.

Neighbor thinks bad ground or safety switch?

I'll give it one more go but then it's off to Yamaha dealer to get gouged.

 

[itsdgm]

Have you tried pulling the spark plugs and cranking the engine? If it still doesn't crank, try turning the engine over by hand (at the engine/pump coupler) with coupler cover and spark plugs removed to make sure that the pump isn't locked up. Good luck, hope you figure it out soon.

 

[TwinEngine]

Ok bad news, then good news, then bad news.

Engine is fine and it was not the starter, nor was the motor seized, hell the original solenoid was fine too.

So my neighbor and I are idiots and didn't notice the + wire out of starter relay was loose and/or had pinched the rubber jacket hood over it not allowing a positive connection cause it did try to start slowly twice (not sure if it loosened over time either)

Tightened all back up, started fine but then starter didn't stop cranking! So old relay kinda melted itself together. Swapped in spare relay... and all good $9 fix.

New problem popped up. NO REVERSE!

Not sure of buckets seized or the throttle controls are acting weird too. The safety lock pin is engaged. And every time pass neutral the lock pin pops out and has tp be pushed in. Goes forward but no reverse.

Any ideas?

 

[Scottintexas]

Do both buckets refuse to go into reverse? this would lead me to a problem with the throttle assembly as they are separate cables at the bucket,

If it's only one bucket disconnect the cable from the bucket and see if you can move the bucket with your hand to the reverse position to determine if it's the bucket or the cable,

Where are you located, salt water ?

 

[TwinEngine]

Ya salt water canal in Fort Lauderdals a bit inland so its brackish water but still.

The cables are newish, replaced about 18 months ago.

Neither moves.

I need to find some how-to on the throttle controls cause that push-in lock pin keeps popping out and locking controls, so thats probably it.

 

[Scottintexas]

Look in the FAQ about fixing throttle slippage it wil show you everything about it
If you need more start a new thread

 

[TwinEngine]

Look in the FAQ about fixing throttle slippage it wil show you everything about it
If you need more start a new thread

Thanks Scott,

I started the process, didn't want to get too deep into it since I didnt see a how to on my exact issue, so I made a video and started a new thread

 

[Jgorm]

Thanks for the tips. This site has the best info! I did find another jet ski sure where they recommend a remote solenoid. I ordered one for $15 that is rated for 275hp outboard.
Marine 12V Solenoid for Mercury Mercruiser 35-275 HP replaces 89-96158T Curved Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TD8VFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T5KzbWT3VP6M

 

[jetboater4life]

Great Video on how to remove the starter relay/ECU box.