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MR-1 Solenoid Replacement and ECM removal

Speedling

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8/18/2014 - Created Thread and copied much information, but still a work in progress.
8/18/2014 - Added in some edited pictures, but only allows 4 to be full view. Please click on the last photo as it's very important! Also associated pictures to the text below.
This is a guide for removing the computer box behind the engine, and replacing the solenoid, which some are calling a starter switch.
I did not see a guide for this anywhere here, or on the internet at large, even on PWC sites for the waverunners.
Hopefully it helps!!!

1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, THEN make sure you have plenty of light in the engine bay as finding things can be a bit tricky at times. I used a drop light, and a portable light as well. The battery cables are what we are working with. It's not a recommendation this time.
2. Picture 1: Start by your clean-out ports. Take off the entire tray. It is recommended to wear long sleeves for this as the bare fiberglass is rough and can become stuck in your skin as well!
A. Open Hatch
B. Put a towel or something under the door of the hatch so it's not resting right up against the deck of the boat as we will be detaching the support straps. Some sort of blocking can work as well, just make sure the hatch isn't resting on the boat itself as damage can occur, especially if you accidentally rest a hand on it.
C. Disconnect the Support straps or struts depending on your tray design
D. Unplug your clean-out plugs and set them on top of the holes sideways so they can come out with the tray
E. Unscrew all the screws holding the tray in, along with the two that have a rubber grommet on them
F. Use a flat headed screwdriver, or other prying device upside down in the clean-out port holes to dislodge the tray from the tubes. They are calked together. You may be able to reach in from the access hatch and unscrew the clamps on the tubes as well. If you can, awesome! But the whole tray will slide off with a little effort anyways. You will want that caulk broken free either way.
G. Lift the tray up, but not too hard or high, as we are leaving the hatch switches in and just using the extra length to move the whole tray to the side. See picture!
3. In the engine bay, locate and unplug the box that is on the side of the computer box. It will have a few larger wires going into it. No need to label it really, this will be the only thing it plugs into.
4. Unplug your spark plugs and slide the wires back towards the box until the first plug reaches that "ring". If you can fit them through, great, but it's not really needed. You are just going for a little extra wiggle room here.
5. Cut some of the "zip" ties away from the wires and looms from under the box, being very careful not to cut any wires!!! Again, this is mostly for wiggle room. Do it not rather than later. Also, look to see which ones you think you would easily be able to re-tie yourself later and cut those first.
6. Take the small plate off where the battery and starter cables attach to the solenoid inside the box. 4 screws with 2 screws holding the cables on. Be sure to save the rubber seal and the two sealing blocks on the cables. Be sure to label which one goes where as well!!!
7. Picture 2: With a friend on the back of the boat reaching in your open tray, have them put a wrench on the bolts that correspond to the computer box. They will have a nylon lock nut with a washer that is slightly bent to the contour of the boat. 17 mm I believe. If you are doing this project yourself, use a Vice-grips on the nut to keep it in place, and so you can find it later.
8. Picture 3: With a 17 mm socket wrench take the bolts out from the engine bay compartment, paying CLOSE attention to the plastic SPACERS that will be falling out when you pull the bolt out. They will fall to the bottom of the engine bay and be a pain to get out unless you plan on catching them! I recommend taking the bottom bolts out first, and the top bolts out last.
9. Take the whole box and set it on top of the intake box. Hopefully you disconnected enough and cut enough ties to where this isn't a problem. You should be seeing a bunch of bolt heads on the back of the box.
10. Picture 4: I believe it is 10 mm heads on these bolts. I used a screw-gun with adapter and buzzed them all right off no problem.
11. Watching that you don't break/ruin the rubber, take the back lid off of the box.
12. Picture 5: The solenoid/starter should slide off as it's a simple rubber bushing type of deal sliding on two plastic tabs with the back of the box to keep it in place.
13. There are two wires coming off of it that you need to get at. They are covered in a good plastic coating but it is clear so you can see the type of connectors. Mine was a clear-green. Just take a razor knife and cut it where the connectors come together and it should pull right apart.
14. Attach the new solenoid to those same wires, and get some electrical shrink tubing to go over it. I recommend this only for water issues. Better safe than sorry. Electrical tape should work fine, but for a write up like this, I'm going to tell you to use the shrink tubing. You don't want these wires touching anything.
15. Put the new solenoid back exactly how you took the old out and put the gasket on the box. You put the gasket on first because there are PINS for lining it up. THEN put the back of the box on it and screw it down. Do NOT over-tighten!!! If you want to be technical, probably just snug them down to the plastic so everything is sealed. I would say no more than 12-14 ft-lbs of pressure. I used my cordless drill which has settings on it that I measured out for torque ratings and I used the one that is about 10 ft-lbs and it was MORE than enough.
16. Put the box back into place and put a couple of the bolts through the top. Just finger tighten them quick for now and be sure to use those spacers!!!!
17. At this point I would reattach the cables, be sure the shrouds are over the terminals, and reconnect the battery. TEST it a few times to make sure it works. If not, well, you may have another issue....
18. Disconnect the battery again and reassemble reverse of disassemble.
19. I would consider putting more caulk around the tubes that connect to the cleanout tray, however, I plan on messing with the exhaust and don't really mind getting a little itty bitty bit of water in the hull now and again. It would really only put a lot in there if you have a plug blow out, but I have the tru-locks.

I have included some pictures to help you along with your process.
PLEASE let me know if you think I missed something or if you need more information!
Speedling

CleanoutTray.jpg ECUBolts.JPG BoltsandPlug.jpg BoxoutOnIntake.jpg
 

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Bruce

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Thanks for posting this! Unfortunately the images do not show.
 

Scottintexas

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@Julian whenever you get a chance can we add this to the tips list
 

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Julian

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Speedling

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Lol sorry!
I copied most from the site that must not be named. When i pasted it apparently there were errors. I have over 20 pics of the process and will edit it tonight when home.
 

Julian

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Speedling

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Well, updated everything and posted pictures saved from my computer, so I hope everything works now!
Also updated the text to show the associated picture via Picture 1-5: so hopefully you know what you're looking at!
I hope no one has to ever do this, but if you do, that I helped!
 

fairpilot

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Thanks so much, I ordered the new part, not suprised I gotta take the whole thing apart, nice if it was out by itself. Will Post when I get it completed. thanks again
 

Speedling

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Absolutely my pleasure.
 

Julian

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Some photos of the inside of the ECU and the offending solenoid would be really cool if you have them.

@fairpilot did you remove the whole ECU as well? I'm thinking there must be a way to do it without removing the ECU, and doing in situ while laying across the top of the engines...???
 

fairpilot

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I removed the box , ECU from back wall. It has to be removed and opened to replace relay, only big deal was not have help to hold wrench on other side. Not much inside box . I did not get any pics,my bad. Simple to change though.
 

Firehouse100

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So what was the issue of why the selenoid/ relay needed to b e changed.
 

Firehouse100

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Thanks, so the click is coming from the ecu box? Mine has been doing that sometimes as well but I have been able to get it started after multiple attempts. The thing that has been driving me crazy is that it has done it so randomly. Did you ever get it started after multiple attempts? For instance, if I use the boat a lot on a weekend vacation it doesn't seem to happen, or sometimes it does. If it sat for over a Month sometimes it will happen and sometimes not. I was thinking maybe a ground issue with the starter or the starter itself. What's your take? Can I get this part relatively easy I would rather start there than re moving that starter. Sorry for all the questions.
 

fairpilot

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If it is the solenoid then it is coming from box where red battery wires of into it. The part is simple to change and inexpensive, it is the easy start place. Mine would not start no matter what, just click, i got stuck on water but was able to use a screw driver and jump across it and it started, drove home without shutting off then replaced. When yours does it try to locate where the click is coming from, you will be able to tell and can prob touch ECM and feel the click. How are you batteries? are they older than 3-4 yrs ? If so I would either take out and have load tested (free at auto parts store) or replace
 

Firehouse100

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Its at the ecu box for sure. I have actually been dealing with this for a few years. I have always been able to keep trying and it would start. As far as the batteries I have four new 29 series that stay on a float charge 24/7. The starboard cranks right up but sometimes the port will just click. Any pic of the part because the right now it has been starting.
 

fairpilot

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here is is on a website, part 29. It is located in the square hole under the round cap on RT side of picture. it has to be taken out from the the back of ECM box though. I think I searched for the part Number on ebay and got it cheaper. if you follow battery cables into ECM you will see a square plate on ECM. those cable hook to the part inside box with screws just remember what cable is on right and left when you dissassemble
http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039f2af870021f60a116cc/electrical-1
 

Firehouse100

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Thanks for all the help fairpilot. I found an after market for $8. On eBay. I'll give that a shot and see if that's what the problem is. I'll keep you post but it will probably be a couple to a few weeks unless my schedule frees up.
 

TwinEngine

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This thread was super helpful the 'first' time I did the Port starter solenoid relay so thanks for this huge help!! Wasn't a hard job just annoying design and would have no trouble doing again...

BUT

The Port starter solenoid is just clicking again. Ordered a pair of solenoids off Amazon but they are different than the last ones?!

First one was from GlenParts (left) that worked for like 6 months, second from Caltric on right. But in the pic you can see part is same but letters for Battery and Motor are reversed?!

I hooked it up same as old one just clicked, then noticed B/M reversed so reversed the power wires and no click at all.

Anyway, thinking I'll just order the old GlenParts relay again or then start looking at the starter as problem - UGH

Any input is good.
https://goo.gl/photos/VxGfanM2m9HxWqrv8
 
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