Need a nozzle steering bushing - help!

[MrMoose]

In the past, I've used a syringe to inject grease into my steering linkage, but yesterday, as part of checking my impeller bearing for water ingress, I took the linkage apart. The attach point on the nozzle has two white nylon(?) bushings in the bolt hole. One bushing inserts from the top, and the other from the bottom. Here's a pic of the top one, slightly pulled up for demonstration purposes:


My port nozzle had two of these (one top, one bottom), but my starboard only had one (top only). I can't say whether it came from the factory this way or whether it was lost when my dealer pulled my drives apart to fix leaks.
So, I looked at the Yamaha parts diagrams, and this part is not shown. It might be part of the linkage sub-assembly (GP1-U1406-00-00), which seems to be a pretty expensive route to go as I think that it costs around $80.
Any idea where I can get just the insert? It seems like a pretty customized part as it seems like that diagonal "crack" is supposed to be there. All 3 of my inserts/bushings looked identical. HELP!

 

[MrMoose]

It looks like the inserts are part of the connector sub-assembly. Gonna be expensive.

 

[Bruce]

This is what I did https://jetboaters.net/threads/addi...zzle-to-increase-precision-remove-slop.11094/

 

[LOZBum]

It looks like McMaster has something like those. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=16amqe8

Check out Dry- running split flanged sleeve bearings..

 

[Bruce]

Great find @LOZBum

@MrMoose, I believe that part number 1281N12 Dry-Running Split Flanged Sleeve Bearings for 1/4" Shaft is what you need.

Although I still believe this is less optimal than a real bushing.

 

[jcyamaharider]

This is the exact one I ordered to replace my worn out sleeves. ^^^^^^^^^

 

[MrMoose]

Wow! Thanks for the quick responses on this post! Y'all are awesome!
While I was disassembling the nozzles yesterday I couldn't help notice that other joints on the nozzle use stainless sleeve bearings that have relatively no play in them. I wonder if there's a specific reason for this particular design using a plastic sleeve bearing, and allowing the steering system to have some play at the nozzle connection. I also noticed that the rudder has play in it too; just the linkage, and not the hinge where it mounts to the transom. Clearly, Yamaha could have snugged the steering linkages up by using stainless sleeve bearings as they have on other parts of the nozzles, but they decided not to.
Thoughts?

 

[Bruce]

I think Yamaha half assed this entire assembly. Perhaps they did some study that determined that friction and slop in the steering gear did not matter but I certainly saw my tracking tighten up and needed force reduced when I installed bushings. I suggest ordering a pair of bushings for $20 then take them to a machine shop and offer them $10 to drill them out. Then install them and see if you like the change.

 

[MrMoose]

I think Yamaha half assed this entire assembly. Perhaps they did some study that determined that friction and slop in the steering gear did not matter but I certainly saw my tracking tighten up and needed force reduced when I installed bushings. I suggest ordering a pair of bushings for $20 then take them to a machine shop and offer them $10 to drill them out. Then install them and see if you like the change.

So, I'm giving too much credit to Yamaha engineers...

 

[Bruce]

So, I'm giving too much credit to Yamaha engineers...

I do not see how that linkage could be an example of primo engineering. I think engineer A said we have to link the cable to the steering nozzle. Engineer B responded let's just put a bolt through it. To which A responded but it pivots under force let's add a bearing to which the accountants responded that would add $20 to the cost of each boat let's use a $0.50 piece of plastic that will wear out quickly instead.

 

[Mainah]

I like the mod that @Bruce did, in fact it will get added to my mod list if I find I have too much slop when checking my cones in the springs. I would not get hung up about it being slotted at the flange. Just use use corrosion resistant parts. You local hardware store may even have what you need in the bolt bins or plumbing section.

 

[swatski]

This is what I did https://jetboaters.net/threads/addi...zzle-to-increase-precision-remove-slop.11094/

View attachment 51018

I forgot about this!

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[bronze_10]

I think @Bruce should make a thread with all of his mods so we can keep a running Talley! And so some people, not saying any names (me) have one place to go to steal all his ideas and work and research!

 

[MrMoose]

I ordered some flange bearings from a company named Igus. They're polymer and supposed to be designed for water environments. I decided to try one that is a half inch long so there won't be a need for a top and a bottom one.
The o.d. is 5/16" and might be a little too snug, If it fits, there shouldn't be much play in the joint. If it doesn't fit, it won't be by much, and I'll just drill out the mounting hole on the jet nozzle a bit.
http://www.igus.com/iPro/iPro_02_0017_0000_USen.htm?ArtNr=JFI-0405-04&c=US&l=en

 

[Bruce]

Great find @MrMoose!

 

[MrMoose]

Thanks @Bruce. I ordered 10 for just under $15, but I don't know what I'll get charged for shipping. They're coming from Germany. eeek.