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Need Trailer Lights - Locally.......Not online

2kwik4u

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Someone bonked my trailer on Monday and busted the light housing on the passenger side. Bent the bracket as well. I needed to replace the bulb on that side anyway, but now I get to replace the entire housing.

Anyone know a reputable brand of lights/housings that I can get my hands on before Saturday? Wife wants to take the boat out before I leave for a week on a business trip, and I don't want to trailer any more than I have to without good lights on the back of the trailer.

Would like to upgrade to LED's if possible, but again, need to get my hands on them this week, so would prefer to walk into a brick and mortar store to find them.
 

Beachbummer

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Harbor Freight and Northern Tool will have have them. Our awesome discount sporting goods store in Texas has them too (Academy) but not sure if they have made it to Indiana yet.
 

anmut

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Any tool/farm center will have them. Probably Lowes / Home Depot too - they're pretty common.
 

Elliott

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Most auto parts store carry them, and they have websites showing what is in stock at your local store. Reese is a common brand with a good reputation.
 

2kwik4u

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Found these at home depot....Have them in stock for $50.....any reason to NOT use these?


Edit......

Also, anything I need to do to the wiring other than solder/heat shrink it togethor?
 

Dixie Highway

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They are probably all made in the same plant in China, I bought mine at Fleet Farm and sealed around the edges of the lens with silicone before install, leaving a 1" spot on the bottom in case there is water intrusion so it can leak out. Solder and heat shrink should do it.
 

Beachbummer

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I bought some crimp connectors like these..

I have been very impressed. I know solder + heat shrink is likely superior, but don't let perfect be the enemy of pretty good and much easier :)
 

WREKS

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Even the bigger Walmarts have some good LEDs.
 

anmut

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If you're already cutting wires for one bulb, just buy the LED's and be done with it. I keep mine plugged in when launching/recovering, no issues.
 

suke

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One place I never thought to check was boat dealers. The larger/local Yamaha dealer, sells all kinds of other brands too, sells trailer parts. I had no idea until a mechanic buddy of mine had his spindle eat itself on his trailer heading into memorial day weekend. He was back up and running in an hour or so. I was like WTF where'd you find parts? I'll be damned....local boat dealer. Not a place I would have thought to purchase trailer parts.
 

Beachbummer

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Can you comment on how strong the bond ends up being? Does it pass the tug test a few times? They look really neat.
 

Wishfull1

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I did a test with standard butt connector, then the solder seal connector. I could easily pull the butt connector apart, but never could pull the solder seal connector apart. Now mind you, that was simply wrapping the wire around my hands and giving it a go. There is a guy on Youtube that pulls it apart at the solder seal connector vs. old school solder job using massive amounts of force, but I'm not pulling the boat by this wire.

For a solid, waterproof connection, I am sold. Quick and easy with a heat gun or standard lighter (I used a grill lighter).

 
Last edited:

2kwik4u

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I tried those connectors when I was repairing the wiring on the soundbar. I must not completely understand how they work. I couldn't get them to seal or make a reliable connection. I'm certain it's user error at some level.

I'll solder these in, heat shrink, then cover with black tape because I'm that guy.

Fun fact....AT&T has a written procedure for repairing telephone wires in the field, and making a reliable water-tight connection with just a set of wire cutters and black "electricians tape". It's from the 50's, but it exists. Always thought that was interesting.

EDIT.....Forgot to address the original post I made.....Picked up a set of LED lights from Home Depot. I'll take some pics of the installation and a review of how they work. $61 plus tax, but they are listed as submersible, and are LED (I'm over incandescent lights and submersion). Hope to put them on this evening before tomorrows outing.
 

suke

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I've used them a couple times. I did it on my old trailer, and the first time I used them here I couldn't get the solder to quite melt. Subsequent uses I haven't had an issue. Then I covered them with heat shrink tubing to make sure they're double sealed. I didn't have an issue.
20190101_115133.jpg20190101_114909.jpg
 

2kwik4u

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I've used them a couple times. I did it on my old trailer, and the first time I used them here I couldn't get the solder to quite melt. Subsequent uses I haven't had an issue. Then I covered them with heat shrink tubing to make sure they're double sealed. I didn't have an issue.
View attachment 120748View attachment 120749
Yea, every time I've tried them I get that center ring that won't melt. Seems like I burn the sheathing before I get the solder to melt.

Here's what my last attempt looked like.
IMG_20190420_175923.jpg
 

suke

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Yea, every time I've tried them I get that center ring that won't melt. Seems like I burn the sheathing before I get the solder to melt.

Here's what my last attempt looked like.
View attachment 120750
I've gotten pretty good with it, and can get the solder to melt, mostly. The trick was not using too much heat for too long.
 

2kwik4u

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I've gotten pretty good with it, and can get the solder to melt, mostly. The trick was not using too much heat for too long.
Maybe I had my heat to high? I used a rounded tip with backer on my heat gun. Gun only has one setting, but maybe I used the wrong tip?

It was the second one from the left in a set like this
 

suke

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I have a cheapie gun, but it has 2 heat settings. I used the low and varied the heat on/heat off of the connector to slowly heat it.
 

PBear

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For a short term connection -- these would work as well. Home Depot has them. You could always do the connectors talked about above when you return.
 
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