Neutral Adjustment not populating in Settings menu for 2022 165 300

[vivacejohn]

I have searched numerous posts here (and on the web) and watched videos about adjusting the neutral position of the reverse bucket (on our analogue cluster), and I understand that I should be able to do make this adjustment with the boat in the water, engine running, and in the Settings menu. (It has the Digital Speed Control Package, but I do not think that matters.)

The only problem: my Settings menu only shows Dash brightness and Clock adjustment. As others have stated, docking with a neutral speed of 5mph definitely makes it more of a spectator sport…

Thoughts? Secret tap code to show?

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Sadly, the iNR feature (Intelligent Neutral & Reverse) is not a thing on the 165. Only 195 and above. So no secret code available.

You have to adjust the neutral position manually using tools.

The good news is once you have it, you don't really adjust it anymore. And personally, I find the iNR system completely useless. People don't understand the control you have with a manual adjustment of the reverse bucket on our 165s. You can move the bucket at any vertical position of your choice. You don't need to have the bucket fully in the forward position or neutral for example, you can have it 15% forward, or 30% forward, etc.

 

[Ted_Ehman]

I am currently working on the reverse bucket position on my 2019 Scarab 165 G. I am very mechanical and I'm failing at this. I bought the boat used with 45 hours on it. It had a bungi cord hooked up to what I thought was the steps to maybe keep the steps in place but now I think it must have been used to hold up the bucket. I took the boat out with no bungi cord an found out the bucket was not all the way up with the forward reverse lever all the way forward.The boat barely got on plane and would not go any more than 20 mph at full throttle even though at 7k rpm. I've not found but a tad bit of info on how to adjust this problem so mostly have winged it. I removed the throttle and forward /rev levers assembly and have pulled the pin on the cable for the forward / rev lever to rotate the cable to make it tighter and reassembled . Bucket still too low. I then removed the cable that connects to the bucket and then removed the cotter pin that holds the brass looking piece that works as some sort of a positing device which is about 6-10 inches forward of where the cable connects to the bucket. After removing the cotter pin in that device , I used a lever to pop the brass piece up out of the hole it nests in Then I rotate that piece as many turns counter clockwise as many turns as I can which allow me to reinstall it. The bucket is still too low , but a bit better. Then I notice the forward / rev lever doesn't go far enough forward now, staying about a half inch away from full forward. That is where I stopped for now. I made an appointment with the dealer which charges $175 hr. Any advice ?? My appointment is only a few days away.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I've never had to play with the F/N/R lever.... only the brass nut at the stern like you did. You're on the right track. Typically you turn that brass nut in or out accordingly, re-insert into the sleeve and then test the full forward/neutral/reverse. You want the full forward to be with the bucket just high enough that it clears the nozzle completely. Neutral should be half covered and reverse fully covered.

Beyond that, it's possible your cable is done/stretched for some reason. So that's another thing to do potentially is to replace it entirely. But beyond this, that's about all there is to adjust here.

 

[Ted_Ehman]

I've never had to play with the F/N/R lever.... only the brass nut at the stern like you did. You're on the right track. Typically you turn that brass nut in or out accordingly, re-insert into the sleeve and then test the full forward/neutral/reverse. You want the full forward to be with the bucket just high enough that it clears the nozzle completely. Neutral should be half covered and reverse fully covered.

Beyond that, it's possible your cable is done/stretched for some reason. So that's another thing to do potentially is to replace it entirely. But beyond this, that's about all there is to adjust here.

OK , I got it. The pin That connects the forward / reverse lever was sticking out a bit and keeping the forward reverse lever from going all the way forward. i repositioned the keeper that held the pin in place and "presto" it all looks good now. I've learned a lot now about how to adjust this thing.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Glad to hear it and good to know. Yeah, nothing like taking things apart... It really does force you to understand things.

 

[Ted_Ehman]

The latest test drive went well . I did notice the reverse bucket even though clearing the water jet nozzle , was not quite connecting the latch even though the forward lever was all the way forward. I could easily make it latch by hand. So during the test drive, I developed a nifty little trick. I would get pointed in the direction I wanted to go and I would put the lever in reverse and make it go in reverse a bit and then quickly put the lever all the way forward and since I had been going backward, the water would push the bucket forward and it would latch. I could then go 40 mph no problem. No supercharger on this thing , and it's just as well . 40 mph is fast enough for this little boat.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The latching was deemed unnecessary by BRP. In fact, newer models don't have the latching plate installed. As long as it clears the nozzle, you should be good. Now enjoy!