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New 2021 212s

Thanks so such 212s!! Lots of good info! I definitely need to go through the manual for the touchscreen.
I was a bit confused at first too, but when I had it in the driveway later in the afternoon I noticed the thin red box around the items. I couldn't see the red box the first day out in the bright light because I didn't know what I was looking for from the manual's description. But now I know what I'm looking for on the screen, it's easy to see and now controlling it is easy.
Last night I confirmed my truck’s 7th (middle) pin is working. It immediately showed 14V when shifted into R. Listened by the trailer when plugged in numerous times and never heard anything, if the solenoid is engaging it’s silent and hasn’t worked the first two times out. It has to be the trailer.
Right, 7th pin in the center is the correct one for the 7-way, end one for 5-way. I've never used mine though and don't intend to use it so I have no idea how silent it might be.

Here's a test, when using the lockout key, you need to make sure you're not on a downhill slope or the trailer brake actuation will push rearward and you won't be able to get the key in the slot. At this point your brakes are already engaged and you can't back up. You need to be slightly uphill or on flat terrain and then just tug the trailer gently to pull the surge actuator forward and release the brakes. You can then pop in the lockout key. Perhaps your trailer brakes are already engaged when you're trying to activate the backup solenoid? It doesn't take much movement to get the brakes engaged.

At the ramp area when we're prepping the trailer before lining up to launch, I park off to the side either on the grass a bit or near a slight uphill grade. This pulls the actuator forward with the truck hitch and the key goes in no problem. Sometimes it's completely flat where we're prepping and after I stop, the key won't go in so I give the truck a light and brief tap on the gas to pull forward a couple inches to release the brakes.

If you're using the lockout key on the tongue, bring along some masking tape and use it to hold the key in - if not as soon as you pull forward the key will fall out like it's supposed to, and you can't back up. The magnetic lockout key fixes this and looks better than tape.
:D
 
I was a bit confused at first too, but when I had it in the driveway later in the afternoon I noticed the thin red box around the items. I couldn't see the red box the first day out in the bright light because I didn't know what I was looking for from the manual's description. But now I know what I'm looking for on the screen, it's easy to see and now controlling it is easy.

Right, 7th pin in the center is the correct one for the 7-way, end one for 5-way. I've never used mine though and don't intend to use it so I have no idea how silent it might be.

Here's a test, when using the lockout key, you need to make sure you're not on a downhill slope or the trailer brake actuation will push rearward and you won't be able to get the key in the slot. At this point your brakes are already engaged and you can't back up. You need to be slightly uphill or on flat terrain and then just tug the trailer gently to pull the surge actuator forward and release the brakes. You can then pop in the lockout key. Perhaps your trailer brakes are already engaged when you're trying to activate the backup solenoid? It doesn't take much movement to get the brakes engaged.

At the ramp area when we're prepping the trailer before lining up to launch, I park off to the side either on the grass a bit or near a slight uphill grade. This pulls the actuator forward with the truck hitch and the key goes in no problem. Sometimes it's completely flat where we're prepping and after I stop, the key won't go in so I give the truck a light and brief tap on the gas to pull forward a couple inches to release the brakes.

If you're using the lockout key on the tongue, bring along some masking tape and use it to hold the key in - if not as soon as you pull forward the key will fall out like it's supposed to, and you can't back up. The magnetic lockout key fixes this and looks better than tape.
:D
That is the key being uphill. I’ve already found a situations where it don’t look like I was downhill and if I was it was completely minimal. The actuator was slightly forward so we couldn’t get the lockout key in nor push the trailer back easily. Ended up having to go over curbed area so I could turn around to get the lockout in. Very frustrating and embarrassing with a brand new boat. I’m no rookie as we’ve had a boat for the past 8 years. I can back up into the tightest spots but don’t want to have to fight with the trailer brakes. The trailer brakes make a loud noise when I get close to stopping too. Completely love our new 212s, but the trailer... meh. I confident we will get it all worked out. I’ll work out a system for the lockout until we can get the trailer brake disengaging properly. When I check to see if I could hear the solenoid activate/energize didn’t even have it on the hitch. Just backup up close and plugged in, so it was easy to make sure the actuator was all the way out.

I agree on the joystick. Once I get it down, I doubt I will use the touchscreen hardly at all. I appreciate all your help @ 212s!!
 
That is the key being uphill. I’ve already found a situations where it don’t look like I was downhill and if I was it was completely minimal. The actuator was slightly forward so we couldn’t get the lockout key in nor push the trailer back easily.
Once the actuator is back half an inch, the brakes are on and you can't back it up or move it backwards at all. You have to pull forward a few inches to get the hitch ball to tug on the tongue and then you can get the key in easily.
Ended up having to go over curbed area so I could turn around to get the lockout in. Very frustrating and embarrassing with a brand new boat. I’m no rookie as we’ve had a boat for the past 8 years. I can back up into the tightest spots but don’t want to have to fight with the trailer brakes.
Once you figure out the pattern, putting in a lockout key is just as simple as taking the transom straps off before launch. It's just part of our routine now and isn't a hassle at all...unplug the light cord, put in the key, take off the cover and straps, put the cooler in the boat, turn on the battery switches and go over to the ramp 100ft away and back it in the water. Easy peasy.
The trailer brakes make a loud noise when I get close to stopping too.
That's normal with new brakes...once you get some miles on the rotors and pads, they should quiet down a lot. Mine were very noisy with slow stops till they settled in, now they barely make any noise.
 
Thank you @212s! I kind of figured the brakes would “wear” in and be fine. Especially as I can feel them working fine and at slow speed they “groan”.

It still takes a little planning and anticipation, but we will get a pattern down. We couldn’t push the boat as the actuator slides forward very easy which is not a surprise as it’s fairly heavy boat. However, I only left about 2 feet of room before I was to the curbed area. Each time I tried to slightly pull forward it would slide back and then slide slightly forward no matter how slow I went or stopped. After a few tries, I was on the curb with no way to backup.

At our home ramp and where we are headed this weekend, the ramp is downhill all the way and I don’t think it will be an issue. It wasn’t last weekend. It just those spots that look flat but is actually backing uphill that are hard to plan for.

Have a great weekend! Happy boating!!
 
Got friends in town and absolutely perfect weather all weekend for boating. We will be doing it all, some swimming in the cove, tubing and shredding on the wakeboard.

Happy Labor Day weekend jet boaters!!! Enjoy this unofficial end of Summer!!!
 
[USERGROUP=9]@HELP[/USERGROUP] Got a piece of wood, medium stick in my impeller and motors runs perfect but won’t go. Very disappointing as we’ve owned two BRO boats over 7 years and never had a problem in our home lake. We had morning storms, unexpectedly, with is expectedly normal for Missouri. Our lake had much more debris than we are used to. I had a feeling it was only a matter of time, through like I mentioned, we’ve never had a problem.

Seems it is a concern mostly when idling or going slow. When going fast, much less likely to suck something up. Good all day, though for a moment when stopping to pick up a downed tuber, we clearly had something but couldn’t feel any anything through the clean outs. It cleared itself when accelerating.

I was waiting for wife to back trailer down idling in the no wake. When I went to go clearly something was in the impeller. Idled in fine, but when out, plain and simple had a stick wedged. No matter what we try, it won’t budge. I’ve spend two hours trying to peel it out because it’s not breaking. It’s too fresh or moist and it’s just perfectly wedged.

The clean outs are cool, but clearly the grates on BRP motors keeps most stuff out which is the best approach. Now I have a stick that I just cannot dislog.

When I examine the grate, not stopping much and now our new boat (9 hours) is dead. Doesn’t make sense to me. Some say they need the extra open grate for power, yet we had the Supercharged BRP and it was super fast and NEVER so much as picked up a atick.

Spent two hours after midnight trying to get the stick out, but it’s wet and suple and it’s no go. Tried from clean outs and underneath. It won’t break loose and seems it would be better if they used a finer grate to prevent this.

I am I screwed with family I town? Pliers could only peel so much off. If we could just reverse the impller, it’d probably pop out it; instead it’s jammed. Not sure how to get this out w/o taking her in at 9 hours.Tried plied, screwdriver and a box knife, but it’s not coming out like that. We wouldn’t they have a better way to keep out smaller stuff?? Was going to remove grate and plate forward of that, but wountn’t come out with the seal, it’s brand new!!!! How do you get a stick that is WEDGED out??? What good are the clean out ports if you can’t grab a stick out,

Seems poorly designed and when I try to grab the stick from underneath, most of the stick will not be grabbed with a pliers.
 
Here are a few pictures from our first weekend with our new 212s. We love her!! Seems everything is nicer than our Glastron, except the trailer tie down straps. I liked that our Glastron had mounted, ratcheting straps. I think I will need to add these. Also, backing up even the slightest hill seems to engage the surge brake; I guess that is partly or all because of the heavier weight since we went with a bigger boat.

Only complaints so far are super minor and may be rectified once I read the manual or by doing some research on here. Top of the list is the “cruise control” and I was so looking forward to it too. First, they said Yamaha says it only works over 20 mph. That eliminates when it’s most needed, even though they said Yamaha doesn’t see the need for it at low cruising speeds. I guess kind of like the old cars that wouldn’t set below 35mph. Except I think it’s most needed when wakeboarding and surfing which is almost always done below 20mph. Who cares if you have to adjust the throttle a little if cruising or ripping across the water? But doing it when your towing sucks. It sets below 20 but doesn’t hold speed. Weirdly, I couldn’t get it to hold speed at any speed, even above 20. Set it at 25 and it will work its’ way down to 15-16 mph or maybe lower, but by then I give up on it. Might be doing something wrong, but so far disappointing.

Next was the anchor locker. Seems to only secure the exact anchor you must have to purchase from Yamaha. I have four anchors and it doesn’t hold any of them securely. If they’re not held securely, there’s a good chance the anchor will beat up the fiberglass in the locker in chop or over big wakes. Seems they might as well make the Yamaha anchor part of the package. I wrapped the anchor in towels to be safe.

The only other minor complaint was Connext system. The home screen should be customizable by the owner. Why wouldn’t they show music and volume level when on the home screen? Joystick makes total sense for when underway, but I couldn’t get access to anything except volume control with it. I will get more familiar by reading the manual.

Tow vehicle is a 2018 Nissan Titan XD Crew Cab. Everywhere we went we had heads turning and people staring. Dude came over yesterday at Lake of the Ozarks from his 41’ SeaRay and seemed envious and told his wife he wanted one. Check out our new boat:

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Beautiful boat congratulations
 
@JetMania Pull the pump/impeller out. I have never done it, but it appears it should only take 30 mins or so. Hopefully another member who has done it on your boat will chime it. There are threads here how to do it.
 
@JetMania Pull the pump/impeller out. I have never done it, but it appears it should only take 30 mins or so. Hopefully another member who has done it on your boat will chime it. There are threads here how to do it.
This.

Find a set of sockets and take the pump out. Doesn't take long, is pretty easy, and will cure the problem and get you and the family back on the water.

There are a couple YouTube videos that wall you through it. I believe they are linked in the FAQ here on the site.
 
2kwik4u is 100% correct, pull the pump. You have to get the boat on the trailor. Don't take the grate off! I've had to pull the jet pump once because of a small piece of fresh wood I couldn't get out. Pulled the pump is fell out and I was good to go. I attached the link I used but there are a few videos out there.
 
I forgot to mention this how I pulled the pump on my AR190. I haven't pulled my pumps on my 2020 212S yet assuming its the same.
 
2kwik4u is 100% correct, pull the pump. You have to get the boat on the trailor. Don't take the grate off! I've had to pull the jet pump once because of a small piece of fresh wood I couldn't get out. Pulled the pump is fell out and I was good to go. I attached the link I used but there are a few videos out there.
Looks like the pump needs to be pulled. Does anyone know if I risk voiding the warranty if I pull the pump myself??
 
2kwik4u is 100% correct, pull the pump. You have to get the boat on the trailor. Don't take the grate off! I've had to pull the jet pump once because of a small piece of fresh wood I couldn't get out. Pulled the pump is fell out and I was good to go. I attached the link I used but there are a few videos out there.
He shows taking out 4 long bolts. Ours doesn’t have those four long bolts. We have four shorter bolts holding on the front section and then the back section is bolted on with 4 more bolts. There is also silicone sealant around where the front section attaches and a black rubber seal on the back. He doesn’t show anything about have seals or sealant. Here is a picture:
 

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I am not sure, if my boat was here i could look at mine. It won't void the warranty that is like pull the prop of a I/O. Let me look at my owners manual.
 
The bolts in the back should be for the pump, the 4 bolt closer looks like are for the nozzle. You should be able to keep the nozzle on. Cant find anything in the owners manuals. Like I said haven't pulled mine yet.
 
The bolts in the back should be for the pump, the 4 bolt closer looks like are for the nozzle. You should be able to keep the nozzle on. Cant find anything in the owners manuals. Like I said haven't pulled mine yet.
Sounds right Sean. Really appreciate the help. If I don’t try it and wait to take it to the dealer our boating season is mostly over as it’s about to get much cooler after this weekend.

Looks like the went to a one piece impeller housing in 2019 so they no longer have those long bolts. One kind of seal will I encounter when I pull that housing? Is putting the impeller back in that easy as shown in the video?
 
Not sure about the seal my AR didn't have one. I would pit it back together and get out on the water, thats what I am doing today. The lake I am on, everyone with a canoe will be out there today.?
 
Not sure about the seal my AR didn't have one. I would pit it back together and get out on the water, thats what I am doing today. The lake I am on, everyone with a canoe will be out there today.?
I pulled the pump. Was able to free up the stick no problem. It was pretty easy really and not exactly like the video. It helped though. The hardest part was getting to those bolts as you need a good size extension and a breaker bar to get it loose. The upper left bolt they only leave room for one or two clicks on the ratchet so it takes a while to get that one out and back in.

Headed to the lake. Thank you Sean for being a great help!!
 
I didn’t take out the front four bolts as they just gets to the nose cone of the impeller. By taking the back four out, the whole thing just comes right out. There was a little sealant, but it looked to match right back up.

Hoping there’s no next time, if there is I will take a video. Thanks everyone!
 
No worries have fun out there!
 
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