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Jetmania, I was looking at my pump yesterday. I have 4 lg bolts and one small bolt holding the pump on, did you have the same? Specifically the small bolt.
2kwik4u is 100% correct, pull the pump. You have to get the boat on the trailor. Don't take the grate off! I've had to pull the jet pump once because of a small piece of fresh wood I couldn't get out. Pulled the pump is fell out and I was good to go. I attached the link I used but there are a few videos out there.
Jetmania, I was looking at my pump yesterday. I have 4 lg bolts and one small bolt holding the pump on, did you have the same? Specifically the small bolt.
Sean, that is correct. Four large and one small. The upper left and the small were tough as there’s very short room to turn a ratchet. The small bolt was easy to break loose, the large ones were very tight and needed a breaker on my 3/8” ratchet. Overall not real tough and was definitely worth the effort.
2019 forward is different. Harder to reach the bolts as they are farther back and less room to turn them. You’ll need at least an 8” extension. The prying then pump loose is a bit tough also because it’s farther back. They provide nice pry points though and with a large Allen wrench it comes loose smoothly.
Had just a fantastic time at the lake this weekend!! So much fun with the new boat. Here’s a photo on the way to the lake of some people who weren’t having a good time!
Sean, that is correct. Four large and one small. The upper left and the small were tough as there’s very short room to turn a ratchet. The small bolt was easy to break loose, the large ones were very tight and needed a breaker on my 3/8” ratchet. Overall not real tough and was definitely worth the effort.
I'm totally guessing on this since my manual is with the boat and I can't easily access it right now, but I'm betting the "very tight" bolts had some Loctite or something on them. If someone else who has access to a manual can chime in here, I'd hate for him to have a bolt vibrate loose after this repair. I'll be back with my boat sometime late Thursday or Friday when I can check my manual, but if I were you, I'd want to double-check it just to make sure. Amazon is your friend with Loctite. I think my manual had at least 2 different formulas for things on my boat, and I may have even had a third, as well as me just wanting to make sure stuff wouldn't come apart while I was underway. I haven't gone through the whole boat and done this, but at the beginning of this year, I did go through the boat and hand tighten whatever I laid eyes on.
Good to hear you tackled a seemingly hard job and can get back out on the water! Little stuff is gonna seem like a breeze to you now!
I'm totally guessing on this since my manual is with the boat and I can't easily access it right now, but I'm betting the "very tight" bolts had some Loctite or something on them. If someone else who has access to a manual can chime in here, I'd hate for him to have a bolt vibrate loose after this repair. I'll be back with my boat sometime late Thursday or Friday when I can check my manual, but if I were you, I'd want to double-check it just to make sure. Amazon is your friend with Loctite. I think my manual had at least 2 different formulas for things on my boat, and I may have even had a third, as well as me just wanting to make sure stuff wouldn't come apart while I was underway. I haven't gone through the whole boat and done this, but at the beginning of this year, I did go through the boat and hand tighten whatever I laid eyes on.
Good to hear you tackled a seemingly hard job and can get back out on the water! Little stuff is gonna seem like a breeze to you now!
I hear you! Not one shows the slightest indication of having any type of Loctite. They also didn’t go back in super easy and I had to back several out just to make sure I didn’t have anything cross threaded. They wouldn’t vibrate out very easily that is for sure. They all had torque marks on the head and I returned all bolts to the spot where marked.
I will make note to check the bolts after every use for a while. I can compare against the torque marks and for flush. We don’t boat on a large lake, so we don’t boat long distance or for long periods, so I should be able catch anything if it were to start to get loose.
Thank you for the “heads up”. In the video, the guy doesn’t use any torque wrench and just goes to hand tight using a 3/8” ratchet. We have two years free service and extended warranty. She’s going in soon for break-in oil change and winterization which is all covered, so as long as I didn’t void any warranties by removing the pump, I can have them look it over.
Good to have them check it out, and there's no way what you did should void your warranty.
A tip I was taught long ago was that if you have a bolt that might be easily cross threaded (spark plugs are another one of these types of things), a way to help get them started properly is to start by turning them the OPPOSITE direction (essentially, the loosening direction) while using slight pressure on the item. When it "clicks", that sound/feel is an indication of the item seated on the threads, and ready to tighten, by hand first, then with tools.
I have yet to strip or cross thread any lug nuts, spark plugs or bolts. I wish this workedoon the stupid drain plug, but with the plastic and the O-ring combination, it's less effective
Good to have them check it out, and there's no way what you did should void your warranty.
A tip I was taught long ago was that if you have a bolt that might be easily cross threaded (spark plugs are another one of these types of things), a way to help get them started properly is to start by turning them the OPPOSITE direction (essentially, the loosening direction) while using slight pressure on the item. When it "clicks", that sound/feel is an indication of the item seated on the threads, and ready to tighten, by hand first, then with tools.
I have yet to strip or cross thread any lug nuts, spark plugs or bolts. I wish this workedoon the stupid drain plug, but with the plastic and the O-ring combination, it's less effective
Who has mounted battery tenders in their boat? Looking to do that and curious to see what brand people have gone with and who to stay away from. The folks at Deltran, who makes an affordable tender, say theirs is not rated for vibration and they do not recommend mounting in a boat. Thanks for any help!!
Who has mounted battery tenders in their boat? Looking to do that and curious to see what brand people have gone with and who to stay away from. The folks at Deltran, who makes an affordable tender, say theirs is not rated for vibration and they do not recommend mounting in a boat. Thanks for any help!!
Noco Genius 2 bank charger screwed to the wood partition then. The cord is run up under the seat opening following other wires and into the engine bay. I also purchased the thru hull plug and went thru the wet storage until the engine compartment where the two connect.
I use the blue medium thread-locker on 99% of all bolts. Red is for permanent use. I use this only where bolts go through an object and have a nut on the other side. This way I know I can use a cutoff wheel to cut the bolt and replace it. I also use the thread-locker sticks from LocTite and not the liquid. They last forever. No worries about the liquid drying up.
Got her first service and winterization performed all at no charge which was very nice. Thank Surdyke Yamaha! They looked at the trailer and the relay module leading into the lockout solenoid had power in and now power out. They didn’t have one, so we will get that done at n/c in the Spring. Sucks to have that on a brand new trailer, but at least it’s identified and will get fixed.
Got into the pole barn and got the two bank battery tender all mounted. All matting removed and DriRid all set up. It will be a long 6 months, but it has been fun.
It is what was recommended by @HangOutdoors. It has worked great. There’s been a debate on some threads over the 4” versus the 3”. The 4” fit perfect and the dealer installed while we were out on the lake getting a checkout with the head Yamaha tech. The bells on the 3” are tapered more and the hill sits on the bells mostly if it completely. On the 4” the bells are less tapered and my hull snugs right into the center roller perfectly.
Also, the stock bow roller had already left some residue behind on the hull, but fortunately no damage. I struggled ever since trying to get that crap off our beautiful white hull. My brother-in-law who has a new Moomba said over the weekend that they’ve had rubber residue left behind from their stock bow roller. He said someone told him to use lighter fluid and it’ll come right off. I tried some on some paper towels and it removed the residue lickety split.
Also, the stock bow roller had already left some residue behind on the hull, but fortunately no damage. I struggled ever since trying to get that crap off our beautiful white hull. My brother-in-law who has a new Moomba said over the weekend that they’ve had rubber residue left behind from their stock bow roller. He said someone told him to use lighter fluid and it’ll come right off. I tried some on some paper towels and it removed the residue lickety split.