New to me 2011 Yamaha 242 Limited S

[Nightmare]

Hello everyone, I have been lurking for the last couple of weeks reading about Yamaha jet Boats. We found a couple for sale in So Cal, but everything is going so fast we were "outbid" on the first two boats. My wife ran across a 2011 242 on F-Book. There were some communication problems, but we finally set up an inspection last weekend and closed the deal on Saturday.

I assume this boat has an interesting history and we only know the last part of it.
2011 Yamaha 242 Limited with 11.3 hours on the motors...
We purchased the boat from Mr. H in May 2021
Mr. H purchased the boat from Bert's Mega Mall on 9/27/2020
Mr. H tells us they used the boat one time in the ocean and decided they didn't want to do that again. Mr. H threw in a full set of scuba gear with the boat (Scuba Pro) with everything except the computer.
Mr. H managed to rip/destroy the bimini top for the boat and ordered a new one from Berts. I will get the top IF/when it ever arrives...

Overall the boat is in pretty good shape. There is some weathering on the gel coat and the passenger cup holder is sun-damaged. But all the upholster appear to be nearly new. The motors start right up and showed the 11.3 and 11.5 hours on the clock. BUT literally, NONE of the other electronics worked. No Radio, blower, switches, etc. Mr. H thinks he may have wired the battery wrong after cleaning the boat. I assume it must be something like that and it turns out he just connected 1/2 the wiring to the wrong terminal. We close the deal and take her home. I spend the next couple of days cleaning up the boat and noting any issues.

We drove to Bert's and got the paperwork submitted to transfer ownership on the ordered Bimini Top. Bert's also gave us Mr. H's Repair Order and the Internal Repairs prior to the sale in 2020 (or the M.R.S. Performed by Bert's).

Mr. H reported that the boat was taking on water. Bert's found the Emergency Rear Hatch was leaking and they resealed it.

Bert's spent $5,800 on the boat before they sold it. The main things that jump out are:

Upholstery - $900 - They obviously re-used the seat bases and probably the cushions.
8 Injectors - $925
Fuel Pump Comp - $225
Awning - $680 - So Mr. H destroyed a brand new Bimini...
Radio - They replaced a couple of speakers and the receiver with a Boss
Batteries - 2 new
Sound-Proof 1,2,3 - This DOES NOT appear to be installed. I'm not sure what to think

So after a week of cleaning and stuff, we finally took the boat out today.

We failed the Zebra Muscle test at the first lake. There is water down by the motors even after drying it out multiple times. I'll ask about that later.

We are able to take the boat to another lake and we had a good time. It performed well. The launch was nice and easy. The kids had a good time on the tube. We even towed another boat about 45 minutes back to the dock due to an engine failure. Got loaded back onto the trailer with no problem even with the winds picking up.

SO, here are a couple of questions I have at this point. I'm sure there will be more.

1 - Is there any easy way to tell if my 2011 has the Oil Cooler Bolt problem?
2 - The Port Engine runs at a lower RPM than the Starboard when the controls are at the same setting. Is there an adjustment?
3 - What should I do about the missing sound deadening? Is there a better product than the foam Yamaha installs?
4 - What audio system are you using to replace the factory system? Do any of them use the control on the transom. The BOSS system does not.
5 - How do I get all the water out of the sump area? I parked the boat on a pretty good hill and let it drain. I can't even see where it is coming from (Somewhere behind the main ski hatch. Under the Gas Tank?)
6 - The boat didn't appear to take on much/any water today. But I see an old water line by the gas tank. Is there anything else I need to check?
7 - Anything major I am missing? I haven't owned a boat for about 15 years.

Thanks. Here are some pics

 

[biffdotorg]

Amazing find, welcome. We have the same exact boat vintage in Yacht blue. Here are some quick answers

1 - Is there any easy way to tell if my 2011 has the Oil Cooler Bolt problem? You don't, that was a 2010 problem, it's possible, but highly unlikely
2 - The Port Engine runs at a lower RPM than the Starboard when the controls are at the same setting. Is there an adjustment? You can, but not usually worth it, they will always be off a little bit. you can twist the sticks a bit while running to micro adjust one up and one down, but it works best with Jetboatpilot throttle sync add on. I just give them a little twist and you can hear when they are synched.
3 - What should I do about the missing sound deadening? Is there a better product than the foam Yamaha installs? You can buy the foam, or just use Kilmat or Dynamat. And if you guy Dynamat, get enough to do the inside of the ski locker door and fuel panel in the floor as well. It's worth it.
4 - What audio system are you using to replace the factory system? Do any of them use the control on the transom. The BOSS system does not. Nothing but Aquatic AV will use that remote. And you can still buy that brand, but about the time you get it installed, the remote will crap out, so don't bother. It's worth more to somone else used. Go buy a good name brand head unit and remote. I replaced our stock Aquatic AV with Fusion and the NMEA remote on the platform. Works great!

 

[Nightmare]

Thanks for the reply. I've been very busy at school the last week. And we are finally DONE for the year!

I have also been ordering additional equipment. We have a week-long trip planned to Bass Lake up by Yosemite.

I called Ryan at Slide Anchor today and he helped me figure out most of the stuff I need.

Small Slide Anchor - The original anchor is gone and the boat came with one of those 3.5 lb folding PWC anchors
100' Twisted Anchor Line
14' Anchor Buddy Line
Shore Spike
30' Bow Line
2 Slide Hooks
4 Dock Lines

I ordered a couple of 25' Spring Lines and the rear ladder rubberband off Amazon.

I'm hoping to get a Mooring / Travel cover before the trip. The cheap cover that came with the boat doesn't fit very well and the drive to the lake is over 300 miles. I'm going to call Leaders and Partzilla tomorrow to see if they might have one in stock.

 

[Tjw961]

Fusion for radio as @biffdotorg mentions with nmea remote on back swim platform - Fusion remote fits easily in same hole. Looks like your engine compartment pic shows missing sound proofing material. Oil cooler, when you look in engine compartment facing stern direction there are bolts on front edge closest to you going straight down the edge of the oil cooler itself (right next to the oil filter). The 3rd one down will have an arrow that is right next to that third bolt pointing in your direction (towards bow). The third bolt down on the oil cooler is the only bolt that has an arrow next to it IF you have the newer style of oil coolers. No arrow then you have the older style that you've probably already heard about.

I myself just found my third bolt missing on my stbd engine oil cooler after noticing some oil leaking in the bildge area. Checked my port engine and it has the arrow as mentioned above and no oil leaking from it. So for me previous owner must have already replaced the port side oil cooler. I've got around 120 hours on my boat right now to give you an idea of how long it has lasted.

With age of your boat like mine, I would replace the scupper valve and pisser hull fittings soon as the plastic ones get brittle over the years. As well as replacing the bildge hull fitting for same reason. Did mine recently and scupper nearly fell off in my hand when I touched it along with pisser fittings had cracks in them. Personally I haven't replaced the bildge hull yet as I'd trying to figure out the easiest way to get to it. Looks like I'll have to pull out the fresh water tank to reach it.

 

[Nightmare]

No arrow then you have the older style that you've probably already heard about.

Both Oil Coolers have this arrow. So I think I'm good.
I'll deal with the radio down the line.
I will look into getting the pissers and the scupper replaced


What is supposed to hold this hose into the air intake? Is this the hose that takes oil vapor from the engine and pushes it back through the air filter?

 

[Tjw961]

Here's a good thread on the scupper valve replacement: https://jetboaters.net/threads/scupper-value.31470/

 

[Tjw961]

Both Oil Coolers have this arrow. So I think I'm good.
I'll deal with the radio down the line.
I will look into getting the pissers and the scupper replaced
View attachment 152509

What is supposed to hold this hose into the air intake? Is this the hose that takes oil vapor from the engine and pushes it back through the air filter?
View attachment 152511View attachment 152512

Looks like you just need to align the insert/fitting better in the hose with the clamp on it. They just press fit into the air intake bigger rubber boot. When I'm checking my engines out, oil level checks, etc I always take a quick look at these two connections as I've knocked them off myself by accident when working around that area or reaching down into the bildge.

Glad you don't have the older oil coolers. It's almost $800.00 in parts to do just one engine with your own labor.

 

[sunbyrned]

I have a 2012 242. I would recommend EZLocks on your clean out port covers. Those things can and will blow. They’re inexpensive and easy to install. Also, when inserting the covers, be sure to tug on them about three good times just to make sure they’re secure. Luckily I’ve had no issues with the scupper valve. I have the stainless steel one as a replacement if I need it, but so far so good.

Regarding the water line, that’s high. Try to compare that waterline to the air intake just to see if the water could have gotten into the engines. Maybe check the air filters for oil.

One last thing I would suggest is to check that the clean out port tubes (the tubes where the covers are) are inserted correctly and secured both at the bottom and top. There should be a hose clamp securing them. If there are any gaps in the tubing, water can get inside. You can check by lifting up the removable lid under the hatch. This happened to me when my clean out cover blew and dislodged in the tube. Water came gushing in and filled the engine compartment and the gas tank area. This might have happened to the previous owner of your boat.

 

[Tjw961]

For your pisser fittings, here is a good thread: https://jetboaters.net/threads/pilot-pee-hole-replacement.26215/page-2#post-536195

 

[Nightmare]

I have a 2012 242. I would recommend EZLocks

Regarding the water line, that’s high. Try to compare that waterline to the air intake just to see if the water could have gotten into the engines. Maybe check the air filters for oil.

One last thing I would suggest is to check that the clean out port tubes (the tubes where the covers are) are inserted correctly and secured both at the bottom and top. There should be a hose clamp securing them. If there are any gaps in the tubing, water can get inside. You can check by lifting up the removable lid under the hatch. This happened to me when my clean out cover blew and dislodged in the tube. Water came gushing in and filled the engine compartment and the gas tank area. This might have happened to the previous owner of your boat.

I saw/read a post about the Cobra EZ locks last night. I'll look into getting a pair.
I did check the starboard air filter and it looked good. The PO did take on water. He took the boat back to Bert's Mega Mall and they checked it out. they found

INSPECTION
- DURING INSPECTION WE PUT WATER INSIDE
- EMERGENCY REAR HATCH FOUND IT WAS LEAKING

They say that they resealed the Emergency Rear Hatch.

Can you post a photo of the cleanout tubes where you are describing? Is it under the oval hatch between the clean-out holes/plugs?

 

[sunbyrned]

Here’s a diagram from a previous thread. Check post #11 from @Scottintexas . You’ll see the tubes (part [HASH=4116]#7)[/HASH] and the hose clamps at top and bottom. Does this help? I don’t have pics handy right now.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/clean-out-port-rubber-tubes.23124/#post-390730

 

[Tjw961]

On my 242 under the rear sear where you lift up that hatch where the bottom of those most rear seats are attached there is a rectangle access plate in the middle. Between the two holes where these tubes are at. You should be able to slide out that rectangle hatch cover to see down into where the tubes are at from an outside view of each tube as you look down into that rectangle access hole. At the very top and bottom there are hose clamps that go around those tube to keep them water tight as seen in that diagram as #2 & #6. Tube is as @sunbyrned mentions are #7 in that same diagram. You should be able to feel around in there to verify.

 

[Tjw961]

Resealing that hatch may also mean that they sealed around the hatch plate itself. If you look while you have that hatch lifted up there are screws all the way around where you access the plugs at. I've not experienced this but have seen others mention that they seal up around where the screw holes are in addition to the top and bottom hose clamps mentioned above. You might see that it's already been sealed if you have work saying it was already done.

 

[Nightmare]

We went to 2 different lakes in the last couple of weeks for a total of 8 days on the water.

We went over 100 miles in 3 days and used a FULL 51 gallons of gas (the low fuel indicator came on in the last evening, I made it to the ramp and filled up on land). That was mostly towing kids on the 3 Person towable. Everyone had a good time. I got up on the wakeboard on the first try.

For the final 5 days we mostly just sat in the cove and watched the scenery. Used just over a 1/4 tank of fuel.

I checked the hours when we got home (25 on the Port and 25.8 on the Starboard). So we have doubled the hours on the boat in 3 weeks. The boat ran great on the trip. I got some practice launching, docking, and loading.

Launching: I think we have this down. So far 3/4 launches were without a dock on either side. It is easy enough to back the boat off the trailer and getaway. I back the truck up most of the way then board from the nose of the trailer. Start the engines and back off. EZ

Loading: It is not quite as easy. I prefer to have a dock and just drag the boat onto the trailer. 3 of the 4 times we loaded there was a dock available. The 4th time wasn't too bad, I just had to wade into the water and pull her into place.

Docking: I pulled into the slip nose-first the first 2 times. Then I got brave and tried to back into the slip. It is 10X easier with 2 people on the dock. But I think after 8 Days we almost have it down. The second slip was MUCH longer and made it super easy to tie up the boat and put on the Mooring Cover. I want to get the Lateral Thrusters and I think that will make docking a piece of cake. We did bump the dock one time pretty good when I got off to get the trailer. I forgot the truck key on the boat and my wife had to pull up a second time. It would be nice if the Jetboat had a true "neutral" with the engines running.

The Misson Sentry Fenders are a little hard to install in some cases. They worked AWESOME about half the time. The other half they would just kinda float on the water...

After 8 Days of installing the Mooring Cover from inside the boat, I have it DOWN.

 

[Tjw961]

Sounds like you're building some great memories!

 

[Nightmare]

Whoever designed this glovebox needs to have both of their thumbs removed and every handle in their life replaced with the profile of this compartment. Has anyone come up with a better way to use/open this box? I thought I might add a small handle, just screw it through the lid.

My Thrust Vectors aren't the same as shown on the JetBoatPilot website. I assume they are an earlier model. They seem to have less 'fin' than the newer ones. Would it be worth an upgrade?

 

[biffdotorg]

Those are the older ones, but they still help. Honestly, the way you are backing into a slip, money better spent would be for lateral thrusters!

LT's added so much control in reverse, that I find myself backing into more things than ever. I correct my angle going into my lift with reverse all the time, it's that good.

 

[Nightmare]

So my Bimini finally showed up at the dealer. I went and picked it up last week.
Unfortunately, I was missing the screws/knobs that hold it in place. So I ordered a couple online.
The knobs showed up, but now I think one of the threaded brackets is messed up.

I can get one side to thread in about 1/2", leaving about 1/2' for the 'ear' on the Bimini to pivot.
The other side doesn't want to thread into the bracket. I need to wait for some more light to see if the threads are crushed or ?

Before I order 2 new brackets. How much room/slop is left between the ear on the bimini and the threads on the knob? About 1/8" or is it almost tight?

Also, does the bracket sit tight against the tower? Or does it move back and forth a little?

 

[Tjw961]

Mine is really tight. In fact over time the screw with knob will become bent and will need replaced from time to time. Not a good design IMO.

 

[Nightmare]

I got the Bimini connected and other than being a little small, it works.

The boat did great on our trip to Long Beach. I didn't get the mileage, but we burned about 75 gallons of gas in 4 Days. It handled the ocean pretty well. I spent about 4-5 hours cleaning and flushing it when we got home. I have a blue stain on one of the seats from a neoprene life vest. I think I'll order some 303 and see if that can pull it out.

So far we have spent 14 days on the water since we bought the boat. The engines have 45 hours on them now (they had 11hrs 2 months ago).

Some Long Beach Pics

I got to call the bridge


Newport Sea Lions


Lunch at Sol Mexican Cantina in Newport


The Unimer U-cleats worked out just fine. The boat didn't seem to move much. The wall helped too.