No spark to either engine

[joe coleman]

Yamaha LX210 2003
I am getting not spark to either engine and I'm at a loss.
I've taken the kill switch out of the equation by disconnecting the white wires but still no spark.
Both engines turn over well, I have a new battery, new fuel filters, I tried spraying starter fluid into the carbs, nothing seems to work.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[TeenGee]

Did you check the clean out hatch switches?
Open the hatch and press the switch while someone else cranks the engine.

 

[joe coleman]

Yes thanks, I have bypassed both switches.
As a note, I'm pretty sure the engines do not even turn over when the hatch is up.

 

[TeenGee]

How did you bypass the Hatch Switches?
See the attachment for switch operation.

 

[joe coleman]

In a previous thread, someone told me to splice the brown to the brown.
It worked fine.
Both engines turn over fine, they just do not fire. No spark.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

In a previous thread, someone told me to splice the brown to the brown.
It worked fine.
Both engines turn over fine, they just do not fire. No spark.

Have you opened up the ECU boxes on the aft engine compartment wall?
Have you checked for spark on a spark plug while removed from the block?

 

[joe coleman]

I bought an in-line spark plug tester and it does NOT light up on either engine when I connect it to the forward most spark plug
and
Yes, I opened the right or starboard ECU box when I replaced the engine starter relay. Initially, the starboard engine would not even turn over.

 

[TeenGee]

How old are your batteries?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Have you looked at your kill switch/lanyard? Make sure it’s connected with the lanyard spacer. Might be the failure point with corrosion.

Can somebody second my thought? Lanyard switch removal allows cranking but no spark ..right?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Try tracking your issue with the following chart/tips:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-wont-start-debug-list-engine-codes-and-battery-voltage-states.1835/

 

[joe coleman]

Thanks again everyone

Battery is new and I've bypassed the Lanyard switch so that can't be the issue.

Looking at the chart below, guess I'm down to number nine: Damaged/Malfunctioning ECU and that is above my paygrade
Guess it is time to take it to the boat mechanic

Thanks for all the help everyone

Joe

• B) Engine turns over but won't start
  1. Kill Switch at helm not seated properly
     • Pull lanyard on and off a few times/wiggle it ect
     • Swap connectors on back of switch if just one engine)
  2. Cleanout Hatch switches or wiring loose-a bad connection might cause the starter to stutter. A bad switch or mis-aligned connection will result in no cranking or sporadic cranking.
     • Swap switches/connectors if just one engine
  3. Fuel tank empty
  4. Fuel Tank-water or contaminents in fuel or pressure is low
  5. Spark Plugs fouled or caps not tight
  6. Crank case filled with water and/or fuel
  7. Fuel Filter clogged or water filled
  8. Battery connections loose or corroded (yes we've seen it happen-turns over wont start)
  9. Damaged/Malfunctioning ECU

 

[Babin Farms]

Very odd to have both ECU’s go bad at the same time. Check for spark by grounding the plug to the block. I’ve had testers not work correctly before.

 

[joe coleman]

I agree, a strange issue.

Raining here now but I'll do as you suggest later today ref grounding the plug to the block. (it is a brand new tester however, but I'll double check)
Also, I need to check continuity of the white wires on the kill switch. Making sure there is no continuity between the wires on the kill switch? (Not because of the kill switch, but check there to confirm there is nowhere else that is causing it?

Once these two items are confirmed, I'll post again.

Thanks everyone

 

[TeenGee]

There is another potential cause. The Pick-up coil.

 

[zipper]

Very odd to have both ECU’s go bad at the same time. Check for spark by grounding the plug to the block. I’ve had testers not work correctly before.

Agree, unless you took a lightning strike. Sounds like an unseen ground problem with the kill circuit.

 

[joe coleman]

Again thanks everyone
Ref the Pick-up coil test. Reading it instructions, there seems to be a special test tool needed and both die at the same time? Seems odd.
As soon as it stops raining, I'll try and chase this idea of "unseen ground problem with the kill circuit".

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Have you investigated the lanyard kill switch? You can bypass this to test.

 

[joe coleman]

yes thanks, I have by passed it

 

[joe coleman]

Good morning everyone
Well It finally stopped raining and I tried all the suggestions I could understand and I give up.
Boat goes to the professionals on Friday.
I expect it will be a month or so before I hear from them, yes, they are that backed up
HOWEVER
Once they fix it, I will post whatever they found.
Thanks again for all your assistance and help.
Joe

 

[itsdgm]

I haven’t been on here in a while, so I’m late to your game. Out of curiosity, does you and or your boat have YDS? If so, the computer would show you what signal the lanyard and hatch switches are showing the ECU.

Also, keep in mind that each hatch switch contains two circuits. One circuit is to disable the starter, the second to disable the ignition. So it is possible that the switch goes 1/2 bad and only affects one of those functions. ive never bypassed one of those switches, but hopefully your technique takes that into consideration.

That being said. I would find it highly unlikely that both hatch switches would fail at the same time Unless there was some kind of event that pointed in that direction. My bet would be on a wire or bad ground somewhere that would be common to both engines. Or bad fuses in each engine fuse box caused by a short, or hooking up the battery in reverse at the beginning of the season.

Anyway, whatever it is, best of luck with the fix. Hopefully it’s a simple and cheap one.