Number of oil changes needed to cleanse water from oil in an MR1 motor?

[Ronnie]

Long story short: a relative of my wife rolled my Yamaha fx ho waverunner. It’s powered by a 1,052 cc 160 hp motor. I was able to start the motor and changed the plugs. Now I’m in the process of getting all of the contaminated oil out of the motor. I have pushed over 16 quarts through so far, emptying and reusing the oil filter each time, four or five times so far.

for those that have been through this (have experience with this), how many more times / how much more oil will I have to sacrifice until all the water is out of it?

two things I’m sure of:
1. The relative who rolled the ski will never ride it again.
2. I love my electric oil extractor/pump.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Long story short: a relative of my wife rolled my Yamaha fx ho waverunner. It’s powered by a 1,052 cc 160 hp motor. I was able to start the motor and changed the plugs. Now I’m in the process of getting all of the contaminated oil out of the motor. I have pushed over 16 quarts through so far, emptying and reusing the oil filter each time, four or five times so far.

for those that have been through this (have experience with this), how many more times / how much more oil will I have to sacrifice until all the water is out of it?

two things I’m sure of:
1. The relative who rolled the ski will never ride it again.
2. I love my electric oil extractor/pump.

@Ronnie .....that's a lot of oil to push through that engine. Is it still milky?. If you change the oil again use a new oil filter.

 

[ZGhost]

Sorry to hear that, actually sucks! Which direction were they supposed to roll it? I was looking at mine this weekend and didn’t see a sticker or instructions on the back like normally done on skis, so I was going to look it up but saw this post hence the Q.

 

[zipper]

Are you pulling the plug on the oil cooler to drain it's oil? You will get a more complete oil change that way. I assume it is a similar arrangement as my MR-1's, but maybe easier to get to on a ski?

 

[Babin Farms]

How long are you running it with fresh oil? Might have to run it longer to heat up the milky oil and get it to release from the internals of the engine.

 

[Ronnie]

@CanuckJetBoater2018 , the oil is still milky after 4 oil changes/about 16 quarts of oil. I plan to use new filters for the next two or three sessions and will reuse them if I have to do more cycling after that. It took a while but I was able to completely drain the original filter seen in the red oil catch tray in the pic.

@ZGhost , when capsized the waverunner is supposed to be rolled clockwise/starboard from the the back of the waverunner. See the attached pic (not a good one since it is still dark here and the sprinklers were on and I didn’t want to get wet for a closer shot). The Yamaha jet boat owner ho helped right the ski said it wasn’t capsized for long but based on the amount of water in the hull and engine so far I assume it was rolled the wrong way/counter clockwise when

@zipper , I’ve been pulling the oil out of the fill/check port. I’ve read that there is a drain plug at the back bottom of the engine but didn’t look for it since it’s obstructed by a bulkhead that holds the ecu box. No pic but if I don’t get the contaminated oil out over the next few oil changes I will reconsider using that drain plug.

@Babin Farms , I’m not running the engine long at all, maybe 30 seconds just to move the new oil into the reservoir to displace the contaminated oil in the motor. The contaminated oil is very viscous so I don’t think it need to be heated to easily flow through the extractor’s hose but I’m getting sick of doing this so I plan to put the waverunner on a hose for 5 to 10 minutes after every oil change as I continue this process.

thanks for the feedback guys. FYI I had water in the oil of a similar waverunner years ago and it only took 2 cycles to clear it but water came from either a leaky gasket or from a malfunctioning ecu not a roller over like the current situation.

here are pics of what I have going right now.
10 quarts of new but “cheap oil” @ $25 per 5 quart jug, the third jug is empty.

3 new filters ($7 for the Wix, $8 for the Motorcraft and $16 for the Mobil 1), I planned to buy Fram oil filters but I couldn’t find the right model and was surprised to see that the starting price in Fram filters is about $11 (I recall buying them for $5 not so long ago).

I’m using 3 to 4 quarts of oil every flush cycle so each cycle is costing me about $15 just for the oil.

also pictured are the new oil and filters i bought for the skis and boat (I want more yamalube but bought out what my local power sports Store had in stock).
Finally A pic of the jugs containing the used oil is attached, all four jugs are filled to the top but one of the 4 quart jugs was half full when I started the waverunner cleansing.

 

[Babin Farms]

@swatski would take his boat for a rip on the river with milky oil so don’t be too afraid to run it. There are a lot of small passages the oil goes and has to get distributed around the engine To get is all moved throughout.
Keep working at it & providing updates

 

[jmargo]

Were you on Berryessa ? I saw a boat towing a rolled jet ski on Sat.

 

[Ronnie]

Thanks for the words of encouragement @Babin Farms . I don’t really want to use the yamalube or the Mobil 1 filter until all of the contaminated oil is out but can’t see myself cycling the oil more than 4 more times before throwing in the towel. At the same time I don’t want to store the ski with contaminated oil either and I don’t k ow if I will be taking it out again this season.

@jmargo my ski was rolled at lake McClure two Saturdays ago. I love Berryessa but couldn’t find decent camping there so have only boated there once this season.

side note: they guy on the 232 Ls who help flip the ski back over asked if he should be looking on Craigslist for it as a Heavily discounted mechanics special. Thankfully my response of no is Turing out to be true. The hull is worth close to nothing but the engine and ecu are expensive and hard to find.

 

[Scottintexas]

Ronnie - sorry to hear about this, you've experienced just about everything a boat owner could,

I found this thread about the drain bolt, it is for installing a drain system but has good pictures, talks about moving the ECU and it's from somebody called Ernest T so you know you can trust it,

Ernest Ts $35 DIY Complete Oil Removal System for Yamaha Engines

I’ve always hated leaving 2 + quarts of dirty oil in my 2008 FX HO MR-1 engine after an oil change. Anyhow, I did some research and came up with my own DIY complete oil extraction system. I think this system could be modified to work with any Yamaha engine, but would be the most benefit for the...

greenhulk.net

If it was me after the first two oil changes (i'd change the filter also each time with the cheapest available), I start running it longer on the hose 10-15 minutes at least or whatever the oil looks like and then change again (especially since you can't get it to the lake to run it hard)

Cobra jeff has suggested adding some transmission fluid to the new oil as it absorbs water better,


.

 

[Ronnie]

@Scottintexas , thanks for the link and feedback. I will check it out later/after work today before resuming the cleansing process.

this has been a waverunner issue plagued season for me. Two blown tires which led to being towed home twice and an axle being replaced along with new hubs, bearings and bearing buddies. This is on top of getting the ski running again and now getting the contaminated oil out of it.

As my wife and I were sitting in the suv behind the broken waverunner trailer waiting for a tow truck, we/I decided that if our/my son doesn’t start using the waverunners by August 1, 2021 they are going to be sold. The rationale being that If I don’t have waverunners or a waverunner trailer I won’t have any of the problems associated with them.

Currently, I can rent jet skis for about $200 per day, so it would only cost me $1,600 to rent 2 for 4 days. For comparison, insurance on each ski is about $350 per year, the two tires (a third is pending) were $100 each, the axle, hubs, bearings, etc. just cost me about $300. Spark plugs are $50 and I’m in about $150 on oil and filters so far. $1,400 so far this season, excluding launch fees and fuel. With guest users it is not uncommon to burn though 20 gallons per ski in one day. Guest users tend to have two throttle positions, wide open throttle or idle.

 

[Ronnie]

I Completed 3 oil change cycles today, with new filters and warmed for 10 minutes (on a hose) each time. The oil is finally looking more clear instead of light brown/tan (dark white?). 26 quarts, plus 2 in the tank now, and counting. I will probably remove the oil plug anyway just to be sure, plus I want to check the electronics box for moisture, tighten up clamps, screws, etc. as well as clean the interior of the hull generally. It is a 14 year old ski after all.

attached are pics of some of what I saw this afternoon.

 

[Slabby]

Might have missed something but how does rolling the ski put water into the oil? I thought this could only put water into the airbox, and worst case soak the airfilter and put some water vapour into the cylinders with the fuel then end up getting pushed out the exhaust ? There are holes in the airbox so liquid drains out to prevent full hydrolock...

I guess it could also go back up the exhaust but it's still going into the cylinders past exhaust valves that are open and not into the oil... If it runs, then isn't this an existing problem from something else?

 

[Ronnie]

I don’t know the answer to your question @Slabby . In my situation. The ski capsized amd was probably rolled back over counter clockwise (from the stern) instead of clockwise which let a lot of water into the engine through the air intake. Then the battery was killed by many attempts to start the engine with water in it. When I finally did get the engine started their was water in the oil which I expected based on the DYI YouTube videos I watched (I haven’t had a ski roll over and flood since I owned two strokes and never had water in oil problems with them). Anyway, the skis seems to be running fine now but the seats are still much heavier than usual , like their still full of water). If I could do it all over again, I would warm the engine up on a hose between each exchange which may have reduced the number of times I had to cycle the oil to get it water free. Alternatively, I through the trouble of gettting to and pulling the drain plug at the back bottom of the engine,

 

[Miitch]

What a shitty time for this to happen.. almost the end of the season (for us anyway). Had the same thing happen to me beginning of August. Exhaust hose clamp came off on my sea doo 180 causing it to take on water (and almost sink like the rest of the Sea Doos out there) up to my battery terminals. Engine was flooded, but not hydro-locked.

Changed the oil three times with the same filter and my result was the picture below. Still milky. Replacing the filter on the next two oil changes cleared the water up exponentially!

My Father said the filter could possibly hold enough water to contaminate the entire oil pan - if there was a significant amount of water still in the engine. We’re both new to this. This is my first boat, and this is his first time seeing the inside of anything other than an outboard. But new filters seemed to help a lot!

Here’s hoping you can have it recovered before the end of the season!!

 

[Ronnie]

In my case, I went through about 30 quarts of oil at an average of 3 quarts per change and a total of 4 oil filters. I took the used oil in to be recycled this morning which brings up another question, why are they willing to take the used oil but not the containers I transport the oil to them in?