OEM Yamaha Trolling Mount & MinnKota Terrova 80/60" Installed

[Dumbassbass]

I am using an 80lb, 24 volt 60 inch with batteries in the console and it does great. Get a plug so you can easily take it on and off so the mooring cover will fit. It is a great cover and you can take it on and off on the water.

Thank you for your input! I think I'm going to go ahaid and order the factory cover and a Terrova.

 

[bolivas]

is it custom fabricated or can I order one as well? will the cover still fit on the boat with the mount?

I have the 210FSH and the cover has an expandable zippered "pouch" to accommodate the mount but, I would think you would have to remove the motor so the prop doesn't destroy the cover in transit (I trailer mine covered). I do not have a trolling motor (YET) to give better details and apparently I only take photos from the starboard side when the cover is on...

 

[bolivas]

Factory mount was fine on my 190FSH with an 80lb thrust motor, the factory mount on my 210FSH with a 112lb thrust motor tore the front of my boat up.

Was the factory mount for your 210FSH metal or composite? There was a time where the factory was sending out composite mounts.

 

[pmustico]

Was the factory mount for your 210FSH metal or composite? There was a time where the factory was sending out composite mounts.

Mine is metal. I have no issues so far with the 80lb. The 112lb might create a lot more torque on the mount.

 

[bolivas]

Mine is metal. I have no issues so far with the 80lb. The 112lb might create a lot more torque on the mount.

Mine is metal too, but I saw on another post where they were complaining about the flimsy factory mount. They then had a custom metal one made. When I bought my boat I was pleasantly surprised to see it was nice and sturdy metal mount.

 

[Floridaman79]

How are you guys with 80 lb trolling motors liking them? I'm on the fence between an 80 lb or 105 lb. If an 80 lb trolling motor is more than adequate I would rather save the additional weight, not to mention cost, of the bigger motor and battery. Is it often that you wished you had more thrust? I'm planning to go with 100 amp hour lifepo4 batteries for several reasons.

 

[pmustico]

I'm good with 80lbs with a 60" shaft. Others want the 112lb 72" shaft. I am not going to be out in crazy currents or weather so it has been fine.

I was on the James River on Wed soon strong current after some storms. I used the trolling motor to go up steam and it did well... I used 8 on the power. For spot lock it was on 2 or 3 for power.

Think about how you will use it and the water you will be in.

 

[Frank Marshall]

I have the 112 lbs on my 210. Started out with the Yamaha metal mount. After noticing it was bent, and had done some gelcoat damage, I switched to a 1/2" x 17-1/2" x 6-1/2" piece of aluminum. If you look at the photo, you'll see it could have been a 1/2" shorter. It's holding up very well, and if it does give, it doesn't have the cosmetic side plate to gouge the gelcoat. I also added loctite to all fasteners, even though I used nylon locking nuts, they were coming loose.



Metal Source

 

[Dumbassbass]

I have the 112 lbs on my 210. Started out with the Yamaha metal mount. After noticing it was bent, and had done some gelcoat damage, I switched to a 1/2" x 17-1/2" x 6-1/2" piece of aluminum. If you look at the photo, you'll see it could have been a 1/2" shorter. It's holding up very well, and if it does give, it doesn't have the cosmetic side plate to gouge the gelcoat. I also added loctite to all fasteners, even though I used nylon locking nuts, they were coming loose.

View attachment 117973

Metal Source

Thanks for your input and the supply link Frank, I'm right there right now. What grade aluminum (and why, in layman's terms) did you go with? Did you use a quick disconnect DC receptical/ plug of some sort? Does your trolling motor have a transducer built in and if so did you use some sort of disconnect plug on it?

 

[Frank Marshall]

I don't have a transducer built in. I do have a power disconnect. I went with Marinco. As far as aluminum, I went with the 5052, as I recognised it as common, but I don't know metals that well.

 

[Floridaman79]

I am a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry so I will apologize in advance if this is long winded..

5052 and 6061 are really the only alloys you would consider for marine applications. You would avoid the high strength alloys like 2024 and 7075.

6061 has a higher yield strength meaning it would take more bending force than 5052 would before it was permanently deformed, however, for the case of the trolling motor bracket you are better off with 5052 and a thicker cross section.

The reason for that is that the relationship for both deflection and strength gets better exponentially with thickness. That means that a quarter inch plate won't deflect twice as much as a half inch plate, it will deflect 8 times more! Strength has a similar relationship where the half inch plate would be 4 times stronger than the quarter inch plate.

Now the purpose of the bracket is to transfer the load from the trolling motor to the fiberglass structure of the boat, so there is goodness in both a stiff plate and a spread out bolt pattern where it attaches to the boat.

I'll be going down this road in the near future.

 

[Dumbassbass]

I am a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry so I will apologize in advance if this is long winded..

5052 and 6061 are really the only alloys you would consider for marine applications. You would avoid the high strength alloys like 2024 and 7075.

6061 has a higher yield strength meaning it would take more bending force than 5052 would before it was permanently deformed, however, for the case of the trolling motor bracket you are better off with 5052 and a thicker cross section.

The reason for that is that the relationship for both deflection and strength gets better exponentially with thickness. That means that a quarter inch plate won't deflect twice as much as a half inch plate, it will deflect 8 times more! Strength has a similar relationship where the half inch plate would be 4 times stronger than the quarter inch plate.

Now the purpose of the bracket is to transfer the load from the trolling motor to the fiberglass structure of the boat, so there is goodness in both a stiff plate and a spread out bolt pattern where it attaches to the boat.

I'll be going down this road in the near future.

Thanks for the metallurgy explanation, that's the beauty of these blogs. Should there be a backing plate if possible or would being backed by washers be sufficient? My thinking is it may be difficult to patern the underside of the fiberglass.

 

[Floridaman79]

Thanks for the metallurgy explanation, that's the beauty of these blogs. Should there be a backing plate if possible or would being backed by washers be sufficient? My thinking is it may be difficult to patern the underside of the fiberglass.

I'm just going to do washers. Fender washers would be better if you have room. I'll do some tradeoff calculations about washers vs edge thickness when I get ready to do mine, but I'm still a few weeks out im afraid. In general a wider washer would be better but a bolt spread is also better, they will be competing against one another at the edge of the boat.

A backing plate would need to be pretty thick to do a lot of good, it loses effectiveness the farther you get away from the nut.

 

[Frank Marshall]

So I got lucky with my 5052 choice. Thanks for the detail!

 

[Floridaman79]

Its better to be lucky than good!

I'll likely be doing the exact same thing with 1/2 inch 5052. Pattern may vary.

 

[quake40]

I have the 112 lbs on my 210. Started out with the Yamaha metal mount. After noticing it was bent, and had done some gelcoat damage, I switched to a 1/2" x 17-1/2" x 6-1/2" piece of aluminum. If you look at the photo, you'll see it could have been a 1/2" shorter. It's holding up very well, and if it does give, it doesn't have the cosmetic side plate to gouge the gelcoat. I also added loctite to all fasteners, even though I used nylon locking nuts, they were coming loose.

View attachment 117973

Metal Source

Do you have any pics showing hole pattern and from inside? Having one cut for me this week.

 

[Frank Marshall]

I don't have pics now. Can get them later, but I used the hole pattern from the existing OEM supplied plate, as I had already drilled those into my boat.

If I were mounting it for the first time, in hind sight, I would have tucked the troller head in a bit more, as it catches my VeVe guides when loading and unloading the boat. That's kind of a balance between bow seating area infringement and hanging overboard. Be sure to check that you have trolling motor shaft deployed clearance from the bow.

 

[Frank Marshall]

More pics
Notice the 3 bolts only hold down the removable mounting plate. 6 bolts are going through the boat fiberglass. Also, after having bolts come loose, I added lock tight with new locking nuts. You can see how the head hangs out to hit the Vivi guides. It's workable, but I have to maneuver around it when loading the boat.

 

[Can0n11]

I have the 112lb on my 19FSH and the Yamaha cover(with pocket) fits perfectly with the TM off. I have a MK53 quick release and I can install the cover with single side dock access no problem without getting in the water.