Oil change question

[Mister Fister]

I am just getting around to doing my 1st oil change as the second owner on my 2018 AR190. It has 150 hours on it and I have no records of the previous owners maintenance so I figured better safe than sorry. I checked the oil (cold) and it was right at the low dot on the dip stick. I used a manual pump extractor and only got 2.25 quarts out (cold). I adjusted the nose of the boat up and down on the trailer and thats all I could get out. I went ahead and changed the spark plugs and oil filter but I do have a question regarding the oil level. I put 3 quarts back in and the level is in the middle of both dots. Is this a good amount of oil to have (cold) or should I add a little more oil? Would it be best to run the boat on the water and check level then?

 

[2kwik4u]

I run the oil as close as the middle of the dots as I can on my '17 190. I change, and check the oil with the engine level (lay a bubble level across the engine cover front to rear). 162hrs and going into season #5 with it. Change oil and plugs once a year in the spring.

Next time you change the oil, run the engine for a bit to get it warm before you suck out the old oil. Makes it thinner and easier to get out. I run a smaller hose than what came with my vacuum device. Have to spin the tube a few times to get it all the way down in there.

 

[HangOutdoors]

You should warm the engine and check the oil Warm always. Also when you do you oil change warm the engine. Best level is just under half way on a Warm engine in the water. Too much and performance can decrease. Way to much and you can soak the filters in oil.

 

[Mister Fister]

I run the oil as close as the middle of the dots as I can on my '17 190. I change, and check the oil with the engine level (lay a bubble level across the engine cover front to rear). 162hrs and going into season #5 with it. Change oil and plugs once a year in the spring.

Next time you change the oil, run the engine for a bit to get it warm before you suck out the old oil. Makes it thinner and easier to get out. I run a smaller hose than what came with my vacuum device. Have to spin the tube a few times to get it all the way down in there.

I could definitely feel some resistance about 2ft down the tube. Almost felt like there might have been a small screen or something toward the end and was worried about puncturing it. Maybe I was being too careful , who knows...

 

[ScottS]

I could definitely feel some resistance about 2ft down the tube. Almost felt like there might have been a small screen or something toward the end and was worried about puncturing it. Maybe I was being too careful , who knows...

I'll be changing my oil this week and will be refamiliarizing myself with this. However, I remember my first oil change last year and thinking that I had the drain line all the way in. It didn't seem like it was in as far as it should be, so I gave it a little more effort as carefully as possible just to be sure, and it eased in another inch or two. This may be worth trying.

You could also just top it off and run it to get it warm and pull the oil again. If you want to be extra cautious.

 

[212s]

I could definitely feel some resistance about 2ft down the tube. Almost felt like there might have been a small screen or something toward the end and was worried about puncturing it. Maybe I was being too careful , who knows...

No screen in there - just gently push and twist the hose a bit and wiggle it down in there - a few more inches and you should get a lot more oil out. With the 1800cc engines you can expect to get about 3.5 quarts sucked out, then a bit more for the filters when you top up. As mentioned, always warm the engines up to mix the gunk in with the oil and it pulls out much easier too. My next oil change will be in a few weeks when I hit 100 hours and I plan to use the boat normally for the day and bring it home on the trailer about 30 mins away. The oil will still be nice and warm for the oil change - stays warm in the engine bay for a good hour or more on warm days.

 

[ScottS]

Knocked out the oil change and spark plugs yesterday (it was about 50 hours from the last oil/plug change). I wanted to share some key takeaways as it was only the second time I had done an oil change on the boat (2017 AR195 - 1.8L SVHO):

1: Inserting the pump line into the dipstick - once I reached the bottom, I felt the tube bottom out physically. If 212s is correct and there is no screen, then I must have been at the bottom of the oil pan. Wish I had known there wasn't a screen beforehand because this part is the only portion that really made me nervous.
2: I forgot to remove the oil filler cap before pumping out and didn't realize it until I went to fill it back up. Not sure if this had a measurable impact on oil removed, but a good habit to remove it before pulling oil regardless.
3: Lowered the trailer jack and was able to get a bit more oil out.
4: place a few towels under the oil filter before removing it - this saved me a mess and prevented me from creating an oil slick the first time my bilge actuates on the water.
5: Place towels around the oil fill port prior to filling - saved me from additional oil slick opportunities when I poured the oil and the funnel shifted.

6: When removing the spark plugs that I installed last year - with anti-seize - it took almost no effort to "break" them free. In my opinion, they were not as tight as they probably should have been. I actually had a little rust/corrosion on the face of the metal jacket that is around the insulator tip. No rust on the threads. Ground and Electrodes looked uniform and pretty good, they were dark grey and showed no signs of pitting or erosion.
7: Used Spark Plug/Spark Plug Boot grease. Used it on the ceramic portion of the spark plug and put some in the boot as well.
8: Did not use anti-seize this time as I have read it can cause over-torquing and as I am not using a torque wrench I wanted a more "true" feel for how tight I was getting them.
9: Torqued to hand tight and then gave it an additional 1/2 turn with moderate effort. Really, just trying to get them a bit more snug than last year.
10: After all the spark plugs were installed, double-check all of the wire connections on top of the motor. Some of them get a bit loose while moving them on and off. Remount the Engine cowling.

Start and run the motor for a little bit and make sure it sounds smooth and there are no signs of a misfire, stumbling, or other quirks. Check the oil level to confirm and get everything cleaned up.

11: Consume a beer.

 

[RobbieO]

What about sucking oil out of the oil cooler?

 

[ScottS]

What about sucking oil out of the oil cooler?

I prefer to finish the day with a beer, but to each their own?

 

[212s]

What about sucking oil out of the oil cooler?

No need...you get a decent oil change going in through the dipstick. With our 1.8L engines you should get 3.5 quarts out, plus 0.2 for the oil filter. Just like changing the oil in your vehicle, you never get it all out, just about 70%. As long as you change per schedule as a minimum, you should't have any issues.

 

[RobbieO]

No need...you get a decent oil change going in through the dipstick. With our 1.8L engines you should get 3.5 quarts out, plus 0.2 for the oil filter. Just like changing the oil in your vehicle, you never get it all out, just about 70%. As long as you change per schedule as a minimum, you should't have any issues.

I’ve been a Ford and Cummins Hybrid-Diesel tech all my life, I can guarantee you that it’s not 70%. More like 95% if you do it correctly.

 

[212s]

I’ve been a Ford and Cummins Hybrid-Diesel tech all my life, I can guarantee you that it’s not 70%. More like 95% if you do it correctly.

I was referring to the Yamaha engines where you only get about 70% out through the dipstick tube.

 

[mskiff]

Nose up the trailer to get the engine level (check it with torpedo level) and you can get almost a gallon out by sucking through the dip stick. At least I did. It takes time, you will think you got it all fairly quickly but I want back three times after waiting about 5 minutes in between and got significantly more oil the second time (no so much the third). I use a fluid transfer pump I bought from Walmart. Worked fine. I measured what came out carefully and replaced with same quantity. Checked dip stick after and was same as before.

 

[GermanAR230]

I could definitely feel some resistance about 2ft down the tube. Almost felt like there might have been a small screen or something toward the end and was worried about puncturing it. Maybe I was being too careful , who knows...

Not my idea nor I have done this myself but heard in some other forum of someone taking a picture with their phone "looking thru the oil filler hole" to get a vantage view of any possible obstruction. The below is an abstract from a fellow Yamaha Jet ski with an MR1.

Quote From https://www.fullwavemarine.com/TIPS FOR YOUR YAMAHA PWC.html
"...There is a baffle plate in the bottom of the oil tank that has a small louver in it (two of) my vacuum bottle tube passes through this to the tanks real bottom. Try to pass the tube through if you can ... BE CAREFUL THOUGH ... the louver has a sharp angled edge facing down. If the tube is forced through it will catch on the sharp edge and be hard to get back out. Pic below of oil tank inside ....

If the tube doesn't pass through the louver (Pic [HASH=131]#1)[/HASH] ,might be safer to do this anyway, use the round hole area in pic (Pic [HASH=132]#2)[/HASH] above the oil tank filter screen to suck oil from ....