Oil Cooler Disater Leak

[Evil Sports]

What year did they address this, you guys are scaring me

 

[jmargo]

Well my fate has been decided and after all the work on this boat to be ready for Bimini is lost on a oil cooler leak

Exhausted all resources to get old one fixed or new one in time for Bimini trip and all have failed. Partzilla did the usual said one thing and got email few days later out of stock

I picked up a 1st gen cooler and wasn't the same. Have access to SC OC but also different single fitting.

If anyone has the right one and lives in Miami pm me. Otherwise once part gets here in July anyone interested or know of crossing group.

They should all be the same from 2010 on. Only difference for the first gen is the arrow on the cover and that one bolt size.

 

[14SX190]

What year did they address this, you guys are scaring me

Check 3rd bolt down and for raised arrow as mentioned bellow on cover
Mine had been apart and god knows what last 2 or 3 PO have done too it.

They should all be the same from 2010 on. Only difference for the first gen is the arrow on the cover and that one bolt size.

I think one I got is even older as no arrow and bottom fittings are closer together and has extra outflow and 9 o'clock.
It would work but requires re plumbing.

 

[jmargo]

One of the threaded plugs was swapped ?

 

[Tjw961]

Recieved email saying I'll get my oil cooler on Wednesday 6/23. Missing another lake weekend, but not stranded out on the water either!

 

[14SX190]

Recieved email saying I'll get my oil cooler on Wednesday 6/23. Missing another lake weekend, but not stranded out on the water either!

Are you doing install?

Wondering if you are taking off EM to get to OC clamps?

 

[Tjw961]

Yes. TBH, I haven't finalized the steps yet to do it. I understand there are 3 bolts that hold the oil cooler to the side of the engine. A couple hose clamps down low furthest away from you when you're looking at it and a sleeve with oring seals that go from the oil cooler to the engine. (Referenced as coupling below)

I figured it would be something close to this:
1. Get the oil out of the engine. I have 12v electric oil pump that goes down the oil dipstick for that. Take off old oil filter.
2. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the cooler to the engine and pull it straight away from the engine. Placing rags under this area first just in case of leakage.
3. Relocate down the hose the two hose clamps and pull hoses off of the oil cooler.
4. IF the coupling is still in the engine, carefully pull it out straight. Otherwise remove from old oil cooler same way. Don't crimp down on this coupling too hard so you can re-use it while you pull it out with pliers. Try not to leave any marks on it.
5. Replace orings and insert coupling it into new oil cooler. (I am re-using the coupling)
6. Remove oil filter threads if re-using it on new oil cooler, Or install new threads on new oil cooler. (I ordered a new one)
7. Take new oil cooler and connect hoses to it, sliding hose clamps back in place. If you want to replace the hose clamps now is the time. (Mine look fine, already checked)
8. Carefully slide coupling on oil cooler back into engine while aligning bolt holes. Keep it straight while pushing it on.
9. Insert 3 bolts into new oil cooler and tighten to spec. (I ordered 3 new bolts)
10. Install new oil and oil filter. (I am changing oil in both engines since its time anyways)
11. Clean things up, and test your work by starting your engine and looking for any leaks. (With some cooling in place or boat in water)
12. Don't forget to check your oil level again after the first start when you have just changed your oil. The new filter fills up with new oil you just put in so oil level drops a little. Top oil level back off.
13. If no leaks....Done!

Anyone who has input on steps missing or out of order please let me know.

 

[14SX190]

Yes. TBH, I haven't finalized the steps yet to do it. I understand there are 3 bolts that hold the oil cooler to the side of the engine. A couple hose clamps down low furthest away from you when you're looking at it and a sleeve with oring seals that go from the oil cooler to the engine. (Referenced as coupling below)

I figured it would be something close to this:

Anyone who has input on steps missing or out of order please let me know.

I could be wrong but sounds about text book and is how I did it.

I'm reusing everything since everything is new as I had long issue with milky oil

My thing is EM? how to get to tension OEM clip in tight spot?
I was thinking small alligator clip to how clamp open to slide over OC water fitting.

 

[14SX190]

Yes. TBH, I haven't finalized the steps yet to do it. I understand there are 3 bolts that hold the oil cooler to the side of the engine. A couple hose clamps down low furthest away from you when you're looking at it and a sleeve with oring seals that go from the oil cooler to the engine. (Referenced as coupling below)

I figured it would be something close to this:
1. Get the oil out of the engine. I have 12v electric oil pump that goes down the oil dipstick for that. Take off old oil filter.
2. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the cooler to the engine and pull it straight away from the engine. Placing rags under this area first just in case of leakage.
3. Relocate down the hose the two hose clamps and pull hoses off of the oil cooler.
4. IF the coupling is still in the engine, carefully pull it out straight. Otherwise remove from old oil cooler same way. Don't crimp down on this coupling too hard so you can re-use it while you pull it out with pliers. Try not to leave any marks on it.
5. Replace orings and insert coupling it into new oil cooler. (I am re-using the coupling)
6. Remove oil filter threads if re-using it on new oil cooler, Or install new threads on new oil cooler. (I ordered a new one)
7. Take new oil cooler and connect hoses to it, sliding hose clamps back in place. If you want to replace the hose clamps now is the time. (Mine look fine, already checked)
8. Carefully slide coupling on oil cooler back into engine while aligning bolt holes. Keep it straight while pushing it on.
9. Insert 3 bolts into new oil cooler and tighten to spec. (I ordered 3 new bolts)
10. Install new oil and oil filter. (I am changing oil in both engines since its time anyways)
11. Clean things up, and test your work by starting your engine and looking for any leaks. (With some cooling in place or boat in water)
12. Don't forget to check your oil level again after the first start when you have just changed your oil. The new filter fills up with new oil you just put in so oil level drops a little. Top oil level back off.
13. If no leaks....Done!

Anyone who has input on steps missing or out of order please let me know.

40 days later finally got new oil cooler.
Hoping to install this this week, check compression and run it on weekend.

Did you take EM off and did you use clamps or change to worm ones?

 

[Tjw961]

40 days later finally got new oil cooler.
Hoping to install this this week, check compression and run it on weekend.

Did you take EM off and did you use clamps or change to worm ones?

I did not take the exhaust manifold off. I did move to SS wprm style hose clamps though that I had left over from another project.

Once I got the oil out, and the three bolts removed (put rags in bildge as some oil still comes out side of engine) i pushed the entire assembly further down while still having hoses connected. Just don't act like He-man and it will go down easily. Then you can get at the original hose clamps much easier.

 

[Tjw961]

I did not take the exhaust manifold off. I did move to SS wprm style hose clamps though that I had left over from another project.

Once I got the oil out, and the three bolts removed (put rags in bildge as some oil still comes out side of engine) i pushed the entire assembly further down while still having hoses connected. Just don't act like He-man and it will go down easily. Then you can get at the original hose clamps much easier.

And these pliers worked great on bottom clamp

 

[Tjw961]

And these pliers worked great on bottom clamp

Pulled out the inserts from side of engine with fingers to put on new O-rings. BTW, if you see an o-ring start to get a square look to it vs. Round...you should change it. Mine were original so glad I ordered new ones. The inserts could also be on back side of oil cooler when you pull the oil cooler from side of engine. No big deal, just pull them straight out. O-ring tension the only thing that holds them in.

 

[14SX190]

Yeah, cooler has been out waiting new part. O'rings have less than 50 hrs but I have extra.
I was thinking strong alligator clip or small locking pilers like that.

Will update with pics.

 

[Tjw961]

That next hose up from bottom on mine was the biggest struggle. Ended up using same pliers and got it mostly on original ears of hose clamps and then eased the hose off. Not ideal, but came off without straining the hose or damaging it.